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About Buzzard

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  • Birthday 06/27/1951

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  • My bikes
    2002 v11 LeMans
  • Location
    Montrose, Colorado
  1. Buzzard


  2. Here is a spare alternator cover. I was going to have it powder coated to match body color, never got it done. Here's your chance. $35 plus $5 for shipping.
  3. Here is the fast and simple. On the rear, you want the spring to be about 152MM in length between the adjuster rings when the shock is fully extended. The compression knob, on the bottle looking thing on the LH side, is to be 10 clicks out from fully in. The rebound adjuster, the knurled ring just above the lower shock eye, is to be 20 clicks out from fully in. On the fork adjusters, one atop each leg, the manual has no starting points, but an OK way is to count the available clicks, then go out half that as a starting point. I find on my V11 that setting all of these settings (comp and reboun
  4. I went with the pump relocation choice on my 2002. The stock pump is too large to put any place else, as is the filter. I found a pump made by MSD, the ignition people, which is intended for FI motors installed in kit cars. While quite small, it works well enough to feed a 600HP V8. Behind it I mounted a filter recommended for this pump, a beautiful machined finned aluminum affair with a serviceable element. All of this was small enough to mount on the LH side on a frame rail beneath the seat. While at it, I went with velocity stacks and K&N filters. I live in mountain country, altitude wo
  5. I don't have the answer to the original question, but I do have something to say about this. I live at 6000' alt., and have a 2002 LeMans with the Ti pipes and race ECU. It would not run cleanly at lower RPMs, bucking and snorting in traffic. I did set the TPS per recommendations on this site, using a volt meter and such. No help. I then carefully marked the position of the TPS, and moved it just a hair one way a bit, a bit more, the other way a bit, and a bit more, taking careful note of any changes in running characteristics. I did find a sweet spot where my bike runs near perfect. The sweet
  6. As stated by others, you will need a gel or AGM battery. The top of the line Yuasa brand can be had at nearly any motorcycle shop. I picked up an excellent battery at a Batteries+ store, at a bargain price. Yes, keep the bike. A Moto Guzzi is not much like a Japanese bike as far as living through a lack of care. We who do own them, and keep on with them, think of them as an enthusiasts bike. We do reap rewards satisfactory to our level of involvement. If your father's Guzzi begins to wear on you, take a break from it, and get back to it when you have time. The day may well come when you find o
  7. While on a ride several days ago, I noticed a bit too much travel in my rear brake pedal. After checking the fluid level and linkage, I gave the rear wheel a sideways shake, sure enough, it's a touch loose. After dis-assembly, the LH bearing proves to be trashed. After doing some cross referencing, I find that the Suzuki GSXR-1100 uses the same rear bearing, as do several other models. I go to the local Suzuki dealer to find that they carry All Balls brand bearings, and the correct bearing sells for $4.95. For less than $10.00, I have two of them. A couple of installation notes. I removed
  8. One thing I would be trying on a dyno run is various settings of the throttle position sensor (TPS). It is easy to mark the home position where the sensor sits in the throttle body, then move it ever so slightly clockwise, then counter clockwise, and see what the results are. I have done this with my bike, without the aid of a dyno, and have had good results with performance. The best result is that I got rid of the sneezes off idle, and removed the flat spot mid range. I would really like to see the results on a dyno. I ended up moving my TPS just a tiny bit clockwise as you look down on it.
  9. [ I cut a hole in the end of the RH K&N filter pod, and attached it there, where it senses the temp of the intake air
  10. For sale here is the first year Softail, First year and model with the then new EVO motor, last of the 4 speed kick starts with chain drive. It's just about an antique, but runs and rides with the new ones. 29K miles, it is in exceptional condition, cosmetically, and mechanically. Price is $6000, it is located in western Colorado.
  11. If everything proves to be correct and proper in the rear drive, here is something that affects throttle abruptness on the Guzzi. Try moving the throttle position sensor (TPS) just a bit. Mark where it is now, so it can be retuned to home under any circumstances. I found that turning mine just a tiny bit counter-clockwise (as viewed from above) worked miracles. I know about all the methods for adjusting the TPS, and have done so on my LeMans, but to be honest, it runs much better, and has better drivability, with the TPS advanced. If I recall, the voltmeter shows 750mv at closed throttle with
  12. I thought I would tell you about my test results as to charging voltage and grounding. Before running additional grounds, testing at the battery terminals with a digital volt meter, I got at idle: 12.3V, at 1K RPM: 13.2V fluctuating somewhat, at 2500-3000 RPM: 13.1-13.6V fluctuating wildly. After additional ground wires, at idle: 12.5, at 1000RPM: 13.6 steady, at 2500RPM: 14.6 steady. This motorcycle was actually staying charged just fine, until I installed heated grips. An additional bonus was that the running characteristics of this bike changed dramatically. I used to think that the program
  13. Additional grounding will do no harm, and probably help. Run a wire from the regulator mounting bolt to the engine case. Another from the battery neg terminal to the engine/transmission case. One more, from the frame to engine case is a good idea. I know that the bike came with ground wires, but the terminals, contact areas, and even the wires can fail. On my LeMans, poor grounding was playing havoc with the voltage, which affected the fueling and ignition. After running a few ground wires it was a different motorcycle.
  14. I had the dreaded vapor lock with my 2002 LeMans. To cure it, I removed the air box, went with velocity stacks/K&N filters, mounted a new, smaller fuel pump not beneath the tank, with a new smaller fuel filter. The air box has to go, to allow room for relocation. I just couldn't see leaving the fuel lines/filter over the cylinders to bake. Never a problem since.
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