First check.
Do you have power at Fuse 6 & 7 from the ignition switch?
If Not
Sometimes with age the grease in the contacts goes hard keeping them apart. I had that with my V11. You can check the contact resistance by pulling fuse 4 and measuring to the common point at F6/F7 if it's consistently less than say 1/2 Ohm it's ok otherwise the switch comes apart quite easily although you do need 3 hands from memory. Clean out the old grease and put back some vaseline or similar.
From the switch it goes through a large connector at the front of tank check for corrosion there. Look at the Carl Allison drawing it will show the connector and wire colour. My drawing doesn't show the connector.
Sometimes after years of flexing back and forth a wire will become brittle and break inside, that would happen where it flexes at the front forks look for any point that bends sharply when you move the bars back and forth. A broken wire will stretch when pulled hard.
BTW if you lay the Test Point Layout drawing on the bike the orientation for fuses and relay pins should match, that's how it is on mine anyway.
I pulled the tank, air box, rear assembly, instrument cover, headlight - and the scoot is really naked now. I am ready to do some serious wiring checking and applying contact cleaner at electrical connectors . But frankly, I still don;t know where to start other than attempting to trace wiring and checking continuity / voltage. I keep thinking it MUST be somthing simple... But unfortunately, electrical issues are full of gremlins and ghosts. To the above question, the instrumetn panel lights are out while the center oil light, etc., are working OK. Any other advice?? Thanks.