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Lucky Phil

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Lucky Phil last won the day on July 7

Lucky Phil had the most liked content!

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About Lucky Phil

  • Rank
    "I live here"

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  • My bikes
    v11 sport,GSXR1000 K7,Ducati1198s, Ducati1000ss,DucatiST2.
  • Location
    Australia

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  1. My home made tool works really well, truly it does:) But the secret is loading up the bearing and then impacting the bearing housing with a copper hammer or a 2lb hammer with an aluminium block to protect the swingarm. The impact shock is absolutely critical to the operation. The problem with the impact puller is mainly the fact that it's difficult to restrain the arm solidly so the energy from the impact of the slide hammer is all transferred to the bearing. Docc had the theory right but I'm still surprised the webbing wasn't too stretchy. Ciao
  2. I didn't want to say that Pete. No way would mine come out with a slide hammer only. Ciao
  3. I have also used aluminium fasteners in the past but only in non critical items like clutch covers and engine valve covers etc. I havent used them now for years since Titanium became affordable. I source mine from Toronto Cycles in Canada and Chinese ebay ones. Ciao
  4. SS is a terrible material for fasteners, simply not enough elasticity. The majority of bolts on all my bikes are now Titanium which is a great fastener material and stays looking like new forever. Ciao
  5. I dont thinks it's just happenstance that the section that always fails is also the section with the closest pitched retaining bolts and is on the low side. A combination of more local clamping force and the natural subconscious "this is the place where it's most likely to leak" results in overtorque. Once the gasket deforms around the bolt hole the bolt threads then grab on the gasket and distort or tear it from the bolt hole and then the cyclic expansion and contraction due to heat and crankcase pressure continue the process. Looking at the larger image of the green gasket you can plainly see the distortion of the gasket hole. Even if you reposition the gasket break the hole will still be distorted because as the bolts been torqued its grabbed the inside of the gasket in the mount hole and started the tearing process. If you positioned the gasket on the head or cover with some Hylomar to hold the gaskets mount holes in the correct position during the fitment process it would also go a way to preventing the occurrence. Or you can just move into the 21st Century and use a metal based gasket which is a lot more robust all around and can tolerate any mount hole misalignment stresses during fitment. Ciao
  6. It comes out with a fingernail sometimes. No need for a tool. Ciao
  7. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    Ha, ok I was imagining it was used from the other direction,Doh. Thats why the knurling is where it is. Sometimes my dumbness amazes even me. Ciao
  8. Ha, yes I've had a few interesting discussions with Boeing "We didn't think of that solution so it can't be right" design engineers a few times. Ciao
  9. Yep, not bad. I've looked at a dozen or more of these charts over the last few months and whats frustrating is they can vary wildly in their application criterion. I was primarily looking at Petrol compatibility and as this chart shows FKM is very good but I've seen charts that says Nitrile is good with petrol which it isn't in my experience. It's acceptable in fuel for a captured joint with no relative movement where the significant swelling can work to improve the seal but if you want a seal that wont swell in fuel you need FKM. An example. The link you sent indicates Nitrile is "poor" for gasoline but if you go to their complete compatibility guide it's rated as a "1" "satisfactory" ! There are so many seal material compositions that it gets complicated and identifying what a seal is actually made from can be next to impossible if it's not labeled. Viton/FKM all the way for me, you can't go wrong in the majority of applications. We actually had a major issue with Leading Edge slat actuators leaking on 737's a few years ago. They changed the seal material and the new material wasn't as good at low temps. On a flight of around 3-4 hrs of cruize@ 42,000' when the actuators had cold soaked they used to leak everywhere to the extent the passengers could see a trail of skydrol coming off the trailing edge of the wing. Shorter flights were ok and once it landed the seals in the actuators had warmed up again and stopped leaking. Even the designers get it wrong sometimes. Ciao
  10. Over torquing and old obsolete technology is the issue. Ciao
  11. You know docc I wouldn't use those ebay ones or any Buna-N or Nitrile o-rings anymore unless I was desperate. The Viton or FKM are the only way to go I think. Buna and Nitrile have an upper temp limit of 100deg C and even the crankcase oil can easily achieve that under the right conditions. Viton and FKM are around 240 dec C from memory and are fuel proof as well. Some of the Guzzi orings that have been superseded have been done so because they have been changed to Viton. Thats why the Nitrile o-ring leak with age because they are operating up to and over their upper temp limit and they harden. Ciao
  12. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    I dont understand what surface the depth tool rests on with regards to the crankcase surface. It appears to have a tapered shoulder that rests against the edge of the oring opening, is this correct. If so what flat face do you measure against to get the depth? I would have a flat face on the body of the tool that sat flush against the crankcase face that the sensor plate and shims bolts to then after setting the depth measure from that face to the end of the body and and from the depth projection to the end of the body and subtract the difference to get the reading. Ciao
  13. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    Nice cam sensor tool. I assume the projection slides in and out of the body and is held by a lock screw to get the depth? Although how do you get the depth measurement? Even using a vernier is tricky with the engine on the bench and impossible with it in the frame. Might need to make me one of those in aluminium. I also made an Ohlins fork cap toll about 25 years ago, I'll dig out the image. Here it is. Ciao
  14. Highly unlikely. Personally I'd be doing a simple compression test before I got into a head removal. Ciao
  15. Lucky Phil

    Map Day

    My suggestion is tighten up the valve clearances, .007 and .009 is too much. Even going from .10/.15 to .15/.20 made starting harder. Just a suggestion. I'd actually go back to the factory settings of .1 and .15 just to compare and then if the difference is profound you can either stick with it or go .15/.20 again. When chasing issues it's always best to revert to factory settings and at least get a baseline again. You can always revert if you wnat to. Ciao
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