Lucky Phil

Oops I missed the fellow Aussie connection. Here Lambda and when? Not sure. Pete might chime in and let us know. Another reason for poor fuel economy in an old not ridden much bike....leaking fuel injectors. This would be my first line of action in the absence of the bleeding obvious other reasons. You could check them on the bike I guess as a back yard method. Remove the injector, reconnect the feed hose and wiring connector and turn on the ignition a few times and see if it leaks anything. The lines maintain pressure for a while with the ignition off and even a few drops/ minute would be bad. Phil

A 2001 Le Mans won't have a lambda sensor will it? Phil

Nope docc tool not required and re-useable. You can release them with a very small bladed straight screw driver and to secure them you can use a pair of side cutters or pincher pliers even multi grips if you have plenty of room. Thats how I did them for years until one day I was about to throw away an old pair of combo pliers and thought I wonder if I can re purpose these into a Cobra clip tool. Five minutes on the grinder and done. Phil

These are what you use on FI hoses. Norma cobra clips. Compact, easy to install, easy to remove, re useable, stainless steel, bullet proof sealing, colour banded for size identification. They sell a special tool to install them but it's not required in reality although I made up one using an old worn out pair of combination pliers for convenience sake. Purple banded size is what you need on 5/16 FI hose. I've been using them for many years and they work perfectly and look compact, professional and tidy. Worm drive clamps are horrible shit looking things. Bulky and just awful to look at. https://www.iq-parts-shop.com/en/norma-cobra-hose-clamp.html Phil

Well I'm darned if I know what my 24mm pins are off because the p/n's for the Centy and the later post 2002 v11's are the same Phil

I know for sure it's just the thread size docc. I'm thinking the 24mm ones I have are Centauro pins which means Guzzi made at least 3 different thread diameters for the same part that does the same job. Whats the sense in that. Before the days of "parts rationalisation I guess. Now wonder they were always in the red. Phil

I'm starting to wonder if my spare pins are off a Centauro. Phil

I measured the ID of the locknut at just under 20mm so the OD I guessed at 22mm. The other pair of pins I have are on the bench and I measured them at 24mm thread OD. In the recesses of my mind I have a memory that there was a 2mm OD difference between the old and later type thats why I went for 22 on the old OD. Phil

Corrections. Old size looks like M22 X 1.0 without pulling the locknut off. Later bikes definitely M24 X 1.0. Phil

It's pointless discussing fine tuning a Guzzi for the subtle operations such as fine throttle response, idle and coughing when you are trying or indeed running it on 100 octane race fuel. The higher the octane rating the less volatile the fuel and the more likely you are to have low speed throttle response and idling issues. Low volatility is great for anti knock but bad for pretty much everything else. The greater volatility of lower octane fuels also helps with intake temps due to better evaporation in the inlet manifold which also is the reason the higher octane fuels often exhibit poor low speed running. We ran some race engines on 100LL Avgas back in the day on injected Ducati Superbike engines and they exhibited poor low speed running especially when the engine was cold and the only advantage it offered was consistency. In the IOM years ago the guy in the next garage to us was using it in his Kawasaki production bike and it was a bitch to keep running properly on start up even with choke at 0430 in the cold weather before the 5am practice started. The Sunco 100 race fuel is actually 104 RON octane and the highest pump fuel we have here is 98 Octane, so it's a decent jump. America uses some average number of RON and MON for their ratings. So on a Guzzi engine I'm pretty confident the Sunco fuel will result in worse low speed running especially at cooler OAT's and poorer starting as well. It's street legal in the US but mostly used by massive boost road car nutters you have there.

Why Titanium? because the std ones are really quite heavy. Ti ones are on my list of things to machine up for my bike but I'd need to use a different method for holding them instead of an allan socket as i don't have a broaching tool. The thread will be MXX by 1.0mm I'm almost certain. I have a pair of large ones as spares that I can check later today. Important if you want to buy a replacement pork chop. Phil

Depends on what year. There are 2 different sizes. The earlier red frame bikes had the fine thread in from memory 18mm and the later M20. Phil

It's pretty easy to remove the ethanol from the Tainted stuff you get in the USA to keep corn growers in business. I wouldn't want to do it for commuting to work but for day rides it's doable. Phil

Why? Phil

An important component of gasoline is the Aromatic "top end" without this engines often won't start at all. The top end disappears with age and especially heat. It's a waste of time troubleshooting any starting and running issue with years old fuel in the bike. Replace the fuel and the next cab off the rank is an injector clean and spray pattern check if it's been sitting around as long as you indicate and what you've previously done. You can remove the injectors and connect them to a 5 volt battery supply to hold them open and run them in a small and cheap ultrasonic jewellery cleaner which is essentially what the professionals do but you won't be able to test them for flow and spray pattern. Phil