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Lucky Phil

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Lucky Phil last won the day on May 17

Lucky Phil had the most liked content!

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About Lucky Phil

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    Forum Flooder :)

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  • My bikes
    v11 sport,GSXR1000 K7,Ducati1198s, Ducati1000ss,DucatiST2.
  • Location
    Australia

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  1. I really like the profile sweep of these mufflers but not the proportion. For mine they need to be 100 mm shorter and a little larger in overall diameter, maybe 20mm at the end and keep the same taper proportion. Oh and brushed Stainless or Titanium finish. Ciao
  2. You need to fit one bearing docc then use a pair of vernier calipers and measure from the fitted bearing inner race face to the seat of the opposite side. A spacer equal to or few thou or even more longer than this measurement is ok but shorter is a no,no as it will pre load the bearing too much when you torque up the axle. I found my spacer too short and glued some shims onto it (only to hold them in place when the axle was removed). You are aiming for a spacer that is the exact dimension between the bearing inner faces when both bearings are seated up against the bearing bores outer race shoulders. A fractionally longer spacer is acceptable but any dimension shorter is not. This is the #1 reason for short wheel bearing life along with using high pressure washers foolishly. Ciao
  3. A few companies over the years including OEM but its a little irrelevant because Alloy gears a rubbish by and large, best to stay away. Ciao
  4. Not sure, email Joe and ask him. Whatever he's using it will be of the required quality and specifications. Ciao
  5. From Joe, email him directly. Mention the forum and my name. There's nothing in it for me personally but he's a good fellow and always been very helpful to me and I like to encourage these type of talented people to keep producing stuff for Guzzi's. Lets him know I appreciate his efforts and pass the word around. joe.caruso@ntlworld.com Ciao
  6. All good answers here so far but to reiterate. Make sure the brake pedal is adjusted so the master cylinder piston fully retracts and doesn't trap brake fluid in the system.As the dragging brake heats up it then starts applying the brake automatically. Simple to check. Take the reservoir cap off and check when you apply the brake quickly you get a tiny backflow of fluid into the reservoir as the master cylinder piston closes off the reservoir feed hole at initial travel. Dont use silicon brake fluid. Spongy brakes result as well as lubrication properties are inferior to traditional fluid. Dont use WD-40 or solvents on brake seals. Made sure you arent unconsciously dragging the back brake. Racers were often bad for this, used to swear on a stack of bibles they didn't do it but they did. They just didn't realize it. Buy a 12 dollar brake moisture content tester off ebay and use it. When it indicates water level of over 2% in the brakes and clutch system flush and refill the system. When you have the wheels off pump the brakes until the pistons extend until the pads touch, clean any exposed piston surfaces and then lever the pads back to the point where the caliper can be just pushed over the disk. This helps un-stick the pistons from the seals and give a good lever esp on bikes that dont do many miles. A pressure bleeder is WAY better than a vacuum bleeder and hand bleeding. You can buy a good one for $60us that will do the bike and the cars. Rear brake caliper need to be removed and inverted for effective bleeding. Very often the front brake master cylinder needs to be loosened off and rotated 15 deg or so and the lever operated slightly so air trapped in the connection between the master cylinder and the brake hose can rise into the reservoir. You will see the bubbles appear in the reservoir with the cap off as you jiggle the lever. Esp critical for bikes with clip ons that position the brake master to hose connection slightly above the base of the reservoir. Ciao
  7. Yes later oil pump and cam gears have a different hole lightening arrangement. Nice arent they. Ciao
  8. Well I managed to get the engine upright on the bench with the help of my son who visited last night. This is one heavy sucker. God knows how I'm going to get it off the bench once the front cover etc is on, maybe a 3 man job. getting it upright allowed me to fill the engine with oil and go through a pre oiling procedure. Put a pair of 13mm nuts on the oil pump drive and rotated it with my battery drill until oil emerged from the front main and cam bearings. Pulled the rocker covers and yep,oil in the heads and rocker pins. Now to assemble the front of the engine and do the cam timing. Oil present and accounted for. Ciao
  9. So am I but you only need to witness 1 serious accident caused by a side stand left down and you become a convert. Ciao
  10. Ok cool, thought mine was the Stucci. Had a seniors moment, thanks. Ciao
  11. So how do you pull the clutch, open the throttle and hit the starter at the same time? 3 hands? Ciao
  12. Just actually trying to remember which brand of crossover I have. Its the X shaped one without the piece of straight tube connecting the 2 main pipes. Is that the Stucchi? Its NOT a Ferracci PS..... my Agostini mufflers have riveted and caps and more of a satin finish. I tried Mistral reverse cone units and they looked good but were a little louder with more of a crack to them but also an annoying whistle/twitter on the overrun like a Norton Commando with aftermarket reverse cone mufflers. Last thing I want to sound like is s Commando on the overrun. Ciao
  13. Check my bike in my avatar and Albums. I've had the Agostini mufflers with the DB killers removed and Stucchi crossover for years. Sounds great and performs well. I tried about 4 different mufflers over the years and settled on these in the end. Ciao
  14. Yep, I've been using ear plugs for the last 20 years on the bike. I did a short 5 or 6 klm ride in the suburbs about 2 years ago without them and was shocked at how bad it was. Ciao
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