Lucky Phil

Ok Pete. Just thought I saw in the 1200 engine training manual an image of a scissor/double gear on the crank and assumed it was a backlash gear. Ciao

Well It'll be easy for me as I raise a glass of red to something or someone almost every hour according to my wife:) Ciao

Exactly Pete. Brad Black did the base map for my bike with a Centy map from a 16M to a base 15M V11 map. It was OKish when at operating temp but hard to start and warm up and a few other issues. I was subsequently given 4 pretty much std .bin files from Karsten in Germany and Will Creedon in the states and I could see why. Brad had simply transposed the fuel, ignition and offset maps straight to the std base V11 maps but left the engine temp and AOT break points as per the std V11 map. This didn't work. The Daytona/Centy engine requires totally different fuel and ignition trimming during the w

An unnecessary and overly complicated one. Ciao

Yes. Look at the bottom of this page from one of my projects for a small taste of what you can do. Guzzidiag and tunerpro are your tools for full access. You will need to commit to learning something new if you haven't done efi tuning before but you can use the programs to tune just like you did with carbs except better. Here's a good starting point for your learning experience. Also check the How to section here for Guzzidiag lessons. https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0 Anyone wanting to step back in time and start afresh with a Power commander is foolish when

You're hearing/remembering wrong. Complete rubbish Ciao

You forgot to mention Pete the split drive gear for the jackshaft to eliminate backlash and keep the noise down, nice. Ciao

The tank cut outs are in my view a styling abomination. I fail to understand why in the hell you would do that as a styling exercise. It makes the bike look like a parts bin, backyard, don't want to invest in proper design, we are broke and can't afford to do it right exercise. I assumed they were an unfortunate necessity. Ciao

So Pete if you removed the rocker cover covers from a 1400 engine would you be able to eliminate or reduce those hideous fuel tank cutouts on the 1400 Californias? Ciao

https://www.formotionproducts.com/ Ciao

Was hoping they'd last longer than a year. Ciao

Got around to doing this. Not totally enamoured by the look but a clocks a useful thing on a bike so that tips the scales. I was struggling with finding somewhere to fit it that didn't look too odd and I finally went with a bolt on fit which involved a bit of work. If anyone is interested in the process I'll add to this thread. Ciao

Not anymore I sold it a couple of years ago. Need any parts? cheap Ciao

The expensive part of painting is the prep. I'm of the mind that if you can strip and prep it to the point of the colour and clear coat application then the cost should be reasonable. If you can find a painter that agrees with my logic. Ciao

Sounds good Pete, bring it on. Ciao

Yes works both ways. I do it this way because that's how I've always done it on the race track, before quick shifters were around. Load the lever on the upshift then flick the throttle and leave the clutch for a "race shift". It wasn't for the lap time but so my left wrist survived. Downshifts of course need the clutch but loading the lever that way on the Guzzi makes for a better shift. As an aside Troy Bayliss never even used the clutch on downshifts when he race his 996/998/999 Corse factory bikes in WSB until Tardozzi pulled him up about it cause it was costing the factory too much in tran

You'll need to bead blast all the paint off and dry the tank out then preferable line the inside. The bead blasting leaves a really good finish for paint to adhere to but there are plastic primers for the task. Every car bumper is plastic these days. Its a pointless exercise patching a tank on a motorcycle as by the time you prep the tank for blending you've painted most of it anyway. Personally I can't see a good painter having an issue matching the paint. I've got a belly pan and several side covers that have been re painted and they are all a very good match. Ciao

There's nothing "careful" about it, it's just a technique. Same as the starting process for a Guzzi or Ducati big twin, if you know the process it works well, if you dont it works less well. Ciao

That's Jodie Comer from the series Killing Eve. Ciao

I've had this discussion before at length docc. In 35 years of using a LOT of CF parts on bikes and on top of that in aviation I've never experienced it. It's another one of those Theory V practice things you come across regularly. I've always taken the view that theory has it's place especially when you're designing something or have zero practical experience in the area but I've generally sided with what is demonstrated to work in actuality over being a slave to the theory. As I said my experience demonstrates it's not an issue, for me at least. On an ocean going racing yacht with a CF hull

Either you have faulty test leads or the TPS's are slipping on the shaft. Hows the shaft engagement on the TPS. If you remove the TPS and rotate the throttle does the shaft section that goes into the TPS rotate? Unlikely to be a broken shaft. From what your figures are showing you have no TPS rotation OR no real voltage to the TPS. What is the voltage between the 5 volt supply from the ecu and ground? Just for clarity 381MV's is 0.381 Volts. All you are doing is changing the resolution on the multimetre. Ciao

Yes thats true, but it's a pretty low bar. The Ohlins design for the V11 Sport/Le mans has been around for 35 years, since the mid 1980's. I had one on my old 851 Ducati. You buy a new shock now and you get maybe not the latest technology but a hell of a lot later then that. The Wilbers on mine was built to suit my needs hence I needed to wait about 6 weeks to get it. There are other options out there now though. Penske make a nice shock as well. Ciao