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Lucky Phil

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Posts posted by Lucky Phil

  1. 3 hours ago, hammershaug said:

    Thanks, @docc 

    The 300 km trip back home from Stryn is by far the longest, but not the only time I've ridden «Queenie Greeeeenie». I had some nice trips - alone and with friends - but not very far from home.

    My last trip was on 21st September 2019. A beautiful day! The sun was shining and almost no traffic:



    I posted this when I got home:

    (Later I discovered the fuel sensor cables were cut…)

    Fast forward. Had my first ride today! A short ride, because the charging lamp is still on. I measure 12,6VDC on the battery terminals with ignition off and 12,4V with the ignition on. With engine running it rises quickly to 14,2V when opening the throttle a bit.

    Could it still be the voltage rectifier, the battery, or both?

    Is this the one I need?:
    [Direct Regulator Rectifier V11 Naked Moto Guzzi](https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2006-moto-guzzi-v11-naked-regulator-rectifier-direct) 

    I also noticed the oil lamp doesn't light up when ignition is on. I guess it should do that. Coincident?


    And you're still riding it!


    • Like 1
  2. I saw in the initial images the throttle plates looked a little too far open to me but I thought it may just be the perspective. My previous recommendation was to establish that the butterflies were completely closed and both sides were baseline synced together as a starting point. You can then at least start the engine and keep it running on the throttle without it running away until you can set the idle roughly. When you get the idle roughly correct on the idle screw the butterflies will be slightly away from fully closed on the TB bores, naturally. Then you can do a proper balance and tune. I now see the OP is asking about the white linkage knob and whether its the idle adjustment and know we are in a bit of trouble. As docc says, follow the decent tune-up thread.



    • Like 2
  3. I'd wind out the l/h TB idle screw until it has clearance ( the r/h should be clear already if one is indeed fitted) then disconnect the linkage and make sure both throttle plates are bottoming out inside the throttle bodies. You should adjust the linkage so when both throttle plates are bottomed in the bodies the small post on the end of the linkage aligns perfectly with the bush on the l/h linkage, then refit it. Wind the idle stop screw on the l/h side until it just touches the linkage and give it half a turn. This will guarantee the throttles are closing and then do a balance and idle adjustment. When you start it up it wont idle but you can adjust the idle stop screw until it does and you're in the ball park. 

    Check the fast idle cam first.


    • Like 1
  4. 14 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:

    No, I didn’t remove them from the cross over support, I left them attached to that, I removed and replaced each rubber intake hose once I’d removed the cross over assembly by releasing the intake hose clamps

    Ok so you didn't remove the throttle bodies from the bike, just the engine?


  5. 6 hours ago, kantmakm said:

    I am refinishing the valve covers on my v11 sport.  After stripping the 'anodized' paint I can see that there are 2 additional thin layers between the paint and the cast aluminum.  There's what appears to be shiny metal plating (leafing?!?), then a brownish/yellowish layer.  I'm wondering if anyone knows what these are?  I had a small dent and hairline crack in one of the covers and I did sand off those layers to make the repair.  I'm wondering about whether to leave them and whether to use a self-etching primer before re-painting them.

    Probably a 3 part paint finish, base coat, translucent colour coat and top coat. If you strip them to bare metal, bead blast them and paint with dedicated engine enamel within 2 or 3 days you wont need to etch prime or prime them in any way.


    • Like 2
  6. Not sure docc I haven't ridden one but at something like less than 2/3 the price of the Guzzi and a much simpler device it has its advantages. Another factor is the cost of parts. Don't like the colour of the tank you chose? It's a $450 au ( $300usd) problem cause that's what a new painted tank costs. Same for everything, handlebars switch gear footpegs seats, all dirt cheap compared to what we are typically used to paying esp for Italian parts. It's the first bike I've ever comprehensively insured at $318aud /year full replacement for 2 years for a new bike. 3 years unlimited klm warranty and 3 years road side assist from the manufacturer as well. Bargain, plus it looks way better than a V7111 for my tastes as well. I spent 3 months trying to convince a good mate to sell his Ducati 750 Sport (2002) to buy one and ended up convincing myself instead, LOL. 


    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  7. 8 minutes ago, guzzler said:

    That looks really good mate!

    I've got a good mate over in Perth that keeps going on about getting back into bikes with one of these!!

    Wouldn't mind one myself for  meandering round the English style backroads out here!

    Reckon it would be about perfect for that with a nice set of pipes as you  mention.

    Hope you enjoy it!

    Cheers Guzzler 

    Yep, it's perfect for all those applications, esp for your getting back into riding.


  8. 9 hours ago, Chuck said:

    RE has it going on. If I were in the market..

    It's an amazing motorcycle for the money Chuck. The areas where they have obviously gone for the utilitarian to keep the costs down are the stuff that's relatively easy and cheap to upgrade, like the levers, handlebars, tyres, indicators, mirrors etc. The kind of stuff most people customise anyway. A nice set of open mufflers will give it the Ducati sound at some point.


  9. 5 hours ago, 80CX100 said:

    Hey Phil congrats on the new bike, very sweet classic lines, I know you've been thinking about it, glad to see you pull the trigger..

    When I first got my California Vintage, I was throwing it around back country curves, it was disappointing.

    Other than change shock settings, the only thing I changed was my mindset and I began riding it for the relaxing and enjoyable bike that it is. It's my favorite old dependable ride in the herd now, like a comfortable pair of slippers.

    Wishing you many safe miles, on your new relaxing and enjoyable ride :thumbsup: :rasta:

    Thanks for the kind thoughts. You're right about the mindset, most everything I have is designed to go fast and that's fine but when I want to just go out for a short ride with my wife to brunch or a quiet coffee I don't need or want that. Riding gear is another area I need to review as well for these times. Race type clothing and protection is what I've always worn but for the urban casual stuff there are now more relaxed yet still protective options. It's about just being able to jump on the bike with a minimum of fuss and go for ride. No hurry, no stress, no worries:)


    • Like 2
  10. 6 hours ago, Tinknocker said:

    I like the Permatex red "High Tack  Gasket Sealer". Have put gaskets on with no sealer and they leaked. Re-did them with new gaskets and that stuff and no leaks. Hopefully I didn't just jinx myself though as I used it on the LeMans valve cover gaskets after a "decent tune-up". Thanks for the procedure docc, she's running fine as ever now.


    Well if you haven't used Valpolini rocker gaskets then yes, you have jinxed yourself and made a mistake. No selant required with the Valpolini gaskets and no chance of them breaking a section out.


    • Like 1
  11. 3 hours ago, gstallons said:

    I used Hylomar on the gaskets when changing the oil/filter on my black frame . Sparingly is the key on anything you put on a gasket . The Permatex anaerobic gasket sealant is a good product too .  There are lots of good products , you just have to know the application . You know when you have used the correct amount when it just oozes out of the mating surfaces .  i have seen rednecks use a whole tube of silicone seal on a timing cover / water pump job !

     I will NEVER use silicone after having to GO BACK through a 1.8l Ford Escort engine after the oil pump / block gasket oozed out and started leaking engine oil . This was a good twenty five years ago and I still have the taste in my mouth !

    Why blame the product when it's the poor quality workmanship that caused the issue. Like blaming the hammer because you hit your finger.


  12. Good to hear your hip is an old injury and not something more serious. As a general statement I'm amazed at people going in for joint replacements, esp knees and hips when they are carrying obvious extra body weight. I sat in wonder at a work function a while ago and listened to two work colleagues discussing their knees and the need of having the joints replaced and noted both were carrying around 15-20kg (around 45lbs) of extra body weight they didn't need. So every time you take a step you briefly carry full body weight on all the joints in one leg. Go and pick up 20kg and note the extra weight plus the impact effect and imagine the extra load on the leg joints when that extra weight is applied 5 or 6 thousand steps a day. I sat there thinking, before I wasted time and energy wondering about whether or not various foods like Tomato's etc made your knees feel worse and dreading knee replacements I'd try dropping 20 or so KG and see how your leg joints feel first before having expensive and invasive operations. Even the side affects of old injuries can be mitigated by keeping weight under control and lessening the stress on an injured joint. My wife recently had a hip replaced but that was due to damage caused by Rheumatoid Arthritis and running combined so I'm aware of those considerations. 

    It's just food for thought is all I'm saying.



    • Like 2
  13. 12 hours ago, ScuRoo said:

    FYI - Living in hot country (lithium’s don’t like cold apparently) I decided to experiment & installed a lightweight LiFePO4 battery some 18+ months ago...

    A whole 600 grams worth - which is literally like a pack of cigarettes in weight.

    Is 0.6kg equivalent to like 1.32 pounds? (Not sure if there’s a difference in UK 🇬🇧 vs USA 🇺🇸 pound variance..)

    Over 200 CCA which is more than a PC545 Odyssey I seem to remember..

    The LH7L-BS is suitable for spinning over thumpers up to likes of Husqvarna 570cc so I figured if it can spin over one big cylinders compression it’ll probably cope with two per cycle.

    So far so good! Convert 👍😊 

    Ps. Before I developed confidence in battery I would fully top up before setting off for ride... amazing speedy charge rate of 15-20 minutes before charger green light lit up. Easy


    What Lithium charger do you use?


    • Confused 1
  14. On 10/8/2020 at 4:08 PM, po18guy said:

    Plastic contains chemicals which, by class, are known as plasticizers. They lend the flexibility and resilience to the base material. With heat and time, these plasticizers migrate out, through oxidation, heat cycles, sunlight (UV) or exosure to other chemicals and solvents. Thus old plastic of virtually all types becomes brittle. It usually shrinks, as its component parts leech out. But Guzzi tanks expand. That is from the chemical content of the gasoline  which they store. Ever clean rubber parts with alcohol? Some types will blow up like a balloon. Add that alcohol to gasoline and you get the same result.

    It's not that. The reasons have been identified, and it's water. The nylon tank material absorbs water and swells and fuels that contain ethanol are more hydroscopic than straight fuel and have a higher moisture content and therefore swell the tank.

    Leaving them dry for a few months in a warm dry environment pretty much brings them back 100% as the water leaches out of the Nylon tank material. 


    • Like 4
  15. 3 hours ago, Guzzimax said:

    A friend has just fitted a LiPo battery in his BMW F800, was impressed by how light it is, compared to a conventional lead acid battery, but he’s only had it for 2 weeks, and I don’t know of anyone with long term experience of how they last. Also would they be more prone to overcharging damage that seems typical with a V11 ? I have another V11 which has a now 6 year old Odyssey that’s still going strong, whereas another V11 seems to have overcharged its Odyssey in less than 6 months. I honestly don’t know if LiPo’s are worth the high price premium. I’m not too bothered about saving a few kgs in battery weight, I could save a lot more myself if I could eat fewer pies :)

    Here's another option I posted recently. More cranking power and around half the weight of an Odyssey and around $50 or so dearer. Why they call it a "hybrid" I don't understand as it's just an AGM as far as I can see but it's light and not as expensive as a LiPo battery and all the issues with them.



  16. 5 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:

    Just bought this rather nice green V11 Sport, to enhance my Guzzi collection. It’s got a Motobatt battery, only 3 years old but now starting to struggle in turning the engine over from cold. My other Guzzi’s all have Odyssey batteries, but I’ve read mixed reports on these and recently had to change a 6 month old one under warranty as it had started to leak. I realise that asking for advice about batteries is like asking for oil brand advice, but I would value anyone’s opinion about which battery to buy as a replacement? 

    Your Odyssey would have almost certainly been leaking due to overcharging which is pretty typical of the V11 charging system. I've had 2 Odysseys do this due to a faulty reg and the way the V11 wiring is designed. Check your regulator voltage output. 


    • Like 2
  17. 2 hours ago, docc said:


    TPS is conspicuously absent from @Gerry_L's extensive listing . . .

    Just trying to tie the clutch action to the recovery of the running. Can't see the clutch switch having an effect and working the throttle isn't going to recover a cut in ignition or loss of fuel supply. Only thing left is TPS. No guarantee of course. You can buy a new PF3C TPS from CA Cycleworks for $92us



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