Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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5 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:
I have the same attitude about wrenching, in most cases I figure I could do just as shitty a job as someone I would pay, cheaper. And maybe even better. Professional mechanics (and charlatans) rarely have the same level of concern for my things as I do. I might do the job slower, or even two or three times to make sure I got it right. They usually just want to get it out their door with the least effort required. If you find a professional mechanic that cares about your things as much as you do, or even close, that is a rare thing and I would suggest taking as much to them as you can. Guys like Pete Roper are not the norm, sadly. And I clearly am not as good as he is. But usually I am good enough.
I find this with everything these days from Car/Motorcycle mechanics to any tradesman that works on your house to pretty much any service you engage. It's just the natural evolution of the capitalistic system where each individual is now their own little corporation and like a corporation the whole reason for existing is to make a profit. The rest is just vehicle to take you to that end.
Try and find anyone these days that is in a profession for the pure pleasure of it or is just happy to be doing what they consider they were born to do and that's the primary reward . Pretty hard, but it used to be quite common.
If history has shown us anything the 20th century demonstrated the total failure of the Communist and Socialist systems with the massive slaughter of its own countrymen and others and it's corruption induced collapse but having said that the capitalist system I believe is now in a serious downward spiral. The current problem of finding decent skilled people that care about what they do and take pride in what they achieve in their chosen field regardless of the financial rewards is just another indicator of the rot setting in.
Of course the problem is as I get older my capacity to do the things I'v always done diminishes and the thought of having to rely on the current crop of charlatans is somewhat of a concern. There are of course still a few good people out there but finding them can be pretty much impossible.
Nice old Kawasaki BTW.
Ciao
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Are those aluminium shavings? If so Is the gearbox input hub contacting the gearbox casing producing the aluminium?
Ciao
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1 hour ago, nobleswood said:
A bit of research turned up this from Traxxion
Top racers have found the need for Extended Fork Caps for the 2006-2010 Suzuki GSXR 600 and 750. With these special caps, you can lower the forks to increase trail and steering performance an additional 20mm in the triple clamps with out sacrificing any rigidity due to loss of clamping surface. This allows for great flexibility with geometry settings. These Extended Forks Caps are CNC machined from 6061 aircraft quality aluminum and are anodized black. Caps are sold in pairs for $199.95 each.
The reason to focus on the Showa's is because it's the same model thats in the Griso. Which I'm opening up to re-valve with Racetech shims
There was a reference to Ohlins making a damper rod extension. More research needed.
Try these guys, they make a V11 kit and are in the US.
https://traxxion.com/?make=3994&model=4008&year_id=4009&post_type=product&action=vpf-search
Ciao
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So Suzuki K7 forks
Centre to centre 205 mm (V11 210)
Length unloaded top of fork to axle ctr 720 (V11 750)
Distance triples are apart ( ie steering stem approx length) 200 (V11 190)
upper dia outer leg 50 (V11 54) lower dia outer leg 56 (V11 54)
So it looks like from a brief overview that you could bore the V11 lowers out 2mm and run some short fork extensions with sleeves on the upper triples if you wanted to retail the V11 triples. Or you could bore the V11 lower triple and get a custom made upper triple.
Ciao
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On 1/1/2020 at 2:33 PM, nobleswood said:
Back in 2016 at the Ohio Rally I met Chuck & his Scura. One of the things I liked about his bike was how quiet it was at idle: a whir of gears & the burble from the exhaust. Very different from the rattle & hesitant idle of my V11.
Ever since then I've been meaning to change the cam chain tensioner, but stuff got in the way. this holiday however;
While you're in there you may as well do an accurate measurement of the pick-up gap and look at the cam retainer flange for wear.
Ciao
On 1/1/2020 at 5:40 PM, Lucky Phil said:While you're in there you may as well do an accurate measurement of the pick-up gap and look at the cam retainer flange for wear.
Ciao
How is this best accomplished?
On 1/1/2020 at 6:09 PM, docc said:How is this best accomplished?
Pull back and forth on the cam sprocket and feel for end float. The earlier retainers didnt have any oil relief grooves cut into the face and tended to wear while the later ones had 3 oil relief grooves. If you have the older type and its new or not heavily worn you can file the grooves in yourself with a round file or use a 6mm parallel rotary cutter in a hand drill and do it.
Here's a brand new latest type with the oil reliefs in the thrust face.
Hears the old type with no oil relief and heavy wear on the thrust face. Notice how the cam sprocket flange has worn down into the retainer thrust face in this case probably close to 1 mm. It"s so perfect looking people think recess into the thrust face is normal and they reinstall it during rebuilds. Its not it's actually heavy wear as you can see by the comparison with the new one. Without the oil reliefs as the sprocket flange wears into the retainer thrust face it exacerbates the lack of oil issue as it creates the small ring which inhibits oil supply even more and it gets worse as it wears. The more wear the more shielding and less oil. A spiralling situation
Ciao
On 1/1/2020 at 5:40 PM, Lucky Phil said:While you're in there you may as well do an accurate measurement of the pick-up gap and look at the cam retainer flange for wear.
Ciao
On 1/1/2020 at 2:33 PM, nobleswood said:Back in 2016 at the Ohio Rally I met Chuck & his Scura. One of the things I liked about his bike was how quiet it was at idle: a whir of gears & the burble from the exhaust. Very different from the rattle & hesitant idle of my V11.
Ever since then I've been meaning to change the cam chain tensioner, but stuff got in the way. this holiday however;
Curious about the mileage ?
Cheers tom.
Phil,
thanks for the tip; I'll check that.
Bike has about 18K miles. It's a 2004 naked. The tensioner has as much strength as wet cardboard
The gasket was leaking low on the LHS which pushed me into getting on with the job.
Currently fighting the stuck woodruff key that drives the alternator. Tapping on the crankshaft is not something I'd think is a good idea.
On 1/1/2020 at 9:24 PM, nobleswood said:Phil,
thanks for the tip; I'll check that.
Bike has about 18K miles. It's a 2004 naked. The tensioner has as much strength as wet cardboard
The gasket was leaking low on the LHS which pushed me into getting on with the job.
Currently fighting the stuck woodruff key that drives the alternator. Tapping on the crankshaft is not something I'd think is a good idea.
You can usually pry them out with a small screw driver. Tapping them back into the slot wont do any harm. Use one of the later metal gaskets with the pressure sensitive sealant coating. I wouldn't use a standard old style gasket when you can get these.
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170&products_id=5044
Ciao
+1 on the metal gasket.
And anyone who still has the paper gasket should have one on hand so you are ready when the paper one does start leaking... and it will.
On 1/1/2020 at 2:33 PM, nobleswood said:
Anyone have thoughts on the "improved" tensioner, MG Cycle #13058200 ?
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=347
On 1/3/2020 at 3:54 PM, bbolesaz said:Anyone have thoughts on the "improved" tensioner, MG Cycle #13058200 ?
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=347
Work good.. last long time.
I dont really know what the better style is and being a "gear" man myself I cant offer any practical experience. It is however interesting to note the comments here that refer to the "banana" style tensioner. Not commenting on the quality of this just the style which is the same as the standard type by and large.
https://hmb-guzzi.de/Timing-Chain-tensioner-CNC-made-HMB-design
Ciao
On 1/3/2020 at 5:42 PM, Lucky Phil said:I dont really know what the better style is and being a "gear" man myself I cant offer any practical experience. It is however interesting to note the comments here that refer to the "banana" style tensioner. Not commenting on the quality of this just the style which is the same as the standard type by and large.
https://hmb-guzzi.de/Timing-Chain-tensioner-CNC-made-HMB-design
Ciao
Yah, I keep looking for my timing marks to jump around under the strobe. I figure that would tell me the tensioner/ chain is due.
No leaks as yet (but don't let her hear this!
) . . .
Seems V11 timing chest leaks are more likely on the wrinkle black finishes of '02 & '03-carry-overs
On 1/3/2020 at 6:02 PM, docc said:Yah, I keep looking for my timing marks to jump around under the strobe. I figure that would tell me the tensioner/ chain is due.
No leaks as yet (but don't let her hear this!
) . . .
Seems V11 timing chest leaks are more likely on the wrinkle black finishes of '02 & '03-carry-overs
I also note the Banana style tensioner gets a mention in Guzziology for the increased noise factor. Maybe just a new spring and rubbing block is the safest bet.
Why the black models would be more prone to leaking I dont know docc.
Ciao
On 1/3/2020 at 6:27 PM, Lucky Phil said:I also note the Banana style tensioner gets a mention in Guzziology for the increased noise factor. Maybe just a new spring and rubbing block is the safest bet.
Why the black models would be more prone to leaking I dont know docc.
Ciao
I seem to recall the weak wrinkle black paint might have been applied to the mating surfaces and led to poor sealing?
On 1/3/2020 at 6:32 PM, docc said:I seem to recall the weak wrinkle black paint might have been applied to the mating surfaces and led to poor sealing?
Ok, not heard that but I can say after stripping it off a gearbox that its the work of the devil. Worst paint I've ever removed and I've been involved in stripping paint off heavy jets. Actually the original stripper for jets back in the seventies was great stuff, paint came off in big sheets for the most part. Then they went to the environmentally friendly stuff and not so great.
Scudd didnt have any issues stripping wrinkle paint off a gearbox though I recall.
Ciao
New tensioners too? I just had the timing chest serviced.
I am about ready surrender this bike to guy that wants a Greenie
On 1/3/2020 at 6:27 PM, Lucky Phil said:I also note the Banana style tensioner gets a mention in Guzziology for the increased noise factor. Maybe just a new spring and rubbing block is the safest bet.
Why the black models would be more prone to leaking I dont know docc.
Ciao
"That got a blower on it, man??"
"You wanna find out?"
On 1/3/2020 at 9:40 PM, Chuck said:"That got a blower on it, man??"
"You wanna find out?"
Go ahead, make my day?:)
Ciao
On 1/3/2020 at 6:42 PM, Lucky Phil said:...I can say after stripping it off a gearbox that its the work of the devil.
Scudd didnt have any issues stripping wrinkle paint off a gearbox though I recall.
^ there may be some connection between those statements.
And deeper we go....
Pick up measured 0.7mm
On 1/19/2020 at 3:39 PM, nobleswood said:And deeper we go....
Pick up measured 0.7mm
0.7 Perfect. Hows the wear on the cam retaining bush? any ridge on the thrust face OD?
Ciao
After a strong cup of tea, I'm going back to the shed to pull the cam thingy you warned us of. We'll find out soon..
On 1/19/2020 at 4:06 PM, nobleswood said:After a strong cup of tea, I'm going back to the shed to pull the cam thingy you warned us of. We'll find out soon..
You dont need to pull it to see the wear. Its on the font thrust face. I can see it has wear just not to what extent.It doesnt look really bad as there's no marking on the front main bearing flange at 12 oclock from the phonic wheel which happens with a really worn bush as the cam floats for and aft.
Here's a new one with the oil relief cutouts
Heres a worn one without the oil reliefs.Note the sharp lip on the edge of the thrust face.
Ciao
Sorry I was orientated backwards; I thought the wear was on the back side.
Anyway, pulled the part & added the oil relief grooves as instructed. Looking at the surface you can just see the beginning of the wear you indicated.
Docc, can you attach Lucky Phil's recommended improvement to the cam chain tensioner thread ?
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4 hours ago, nobleswood said:
That is the question ! What do you accept & what do you feel you can change without altering the bike too much.
So I'm trying to find out if some version of the GSXR Showa forks are a straight swap, upgrading to a cartridge fork, the triple trees staying the same.
For me the engine is powerful enough, it's the suspension I want to work with.
Just asking questions & learning.
Phil, you have the GSXR 1000. What year is it ? What's the length of the forks? Would the forks fit the V11 triple trees ?
Happy New Year All
Good question, I'll look and measure them up tomorrow. Minesa K7 2007 model 1000. I think from memory others have used 750 fork from what year i'm not sure and the triples also I believe with a shortened stem.
Ciao
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Awesome Paul, above and beyond the call:) You didnt need to destroy a V11 box for me though. I hope it wasn't a usable one.
Ciao
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20 minutes ago, nobleswood said:
I've been looking at the Showa's that were fitted to certain models of GSXR years which are basically the same as the Griso units.
Then looking at Racetech components which basically give you the shims & bits to re-valve the forks yourself. So as much as sorting out the forks I'm looking at the education & figuring it out myself idea.
It could result in a big mistake but as GuzziMoto said; GSXR parts are plentiful, cheaper than most & there are lots of aftermarket parts out there for backyard tinkerers.
Its always a hard one, at what point do you just accept what you've got and enhance it as much as possible and at what point do you actually dilute the essence of the bike. All its shortcomings also add up to the whole. If you go the GSXR fork route you'll probably end up with better front end but then you'll have different tripples,different forks,different brakes, probably different instruments or find a way to adapt the originals to the new triples, different front guard different front wheel. I mean when does it stop being a V11 and end up a Guzzuki.
Personally I'd retain the original forks and fit cartridges.
I have the same issue with my bike and fitting the Daytona engine, it still needs to be at heart a V11 so major components like forks I'll live with and update internally. My aim is also to be able to return it to a std V11 if necessary so no major structural changes.
Ciao
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For reference to anyone thats interested when I installed the RAM single plater on the Daytona engine and fitted up the gearbox I measured the distance between the gearbox actuating piston and the face of the flange that the slave cylinder bolts to and compared it to the 2 valve motor and gearbox with the twin plate clutch. The difference was around a little less than 1 mm from memory. I just wanted a reference to make sure we were in the ball park. If someone needs to know the exact dimension difference between the two I can measure it again.
The clutch releases fine on the new engine/gearbox assy static but engages closer to the bar than the old clutch.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Gmc28 said:
I’ve found euro and Japanese bike parts to be similar enough in pricing... both outrageous. At least in my experience in the last decade: Yamaha WR450R, Suzuki DR350.
But availability is the other thing u mention, which is true, and also applies to after market. My old DR was a fun project, largely aided by the availability of many great after market options and/or upgrades. Euro bikes have after market stuff, but just seems less, at least in the category i’m eye-balling.
But Phil has me noodling the Aprilia. Nifty enough to enjoy working on it and riding it on road now and then, capable enough for the occasional track day. Then, if I end up doing a lot more track time, i’ll Have developed a better feel for what I’d really want. And i don’t, i’ll Have had a fun run with an Aprilia, at little expense (if I get something like what I’ve found so far on line, with some low side damage).
I've had the RSV engine apart and its pretty much bullet proof, so no issues there. Balance shafts make it really smooth as well. If you can find a low klm or really nice one go for it. The only thing with a crash damaged one is that the alloy frame and swingarm are susceptible to cosmetic damage. They look beautiful but its hard to reproduce the finish even if its damaged by flying gravel during a low side. One of my bikes was an insurance write off due to cosmetic damage only. I bought it and rebuilt it rode it for a while and sold it. Only down side I can think of is fairly tall seat height and more top heavy handling wise than a Ducati.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Gmc28 said:
Mmmm, MV.... beautiful machines. Evil food food for thought.
what of the Aprilia Tuono? More bike than needed, but a guy has one that was laid down and looks ok but sales price is in the attractive range because of it.
Aprilia make a very nice product. I've owned 2 RSV1000R's ( ohlins suspension and forged wheels model) and a standard RSV1000. They all were very good bikes and under appreciated by the market at the time. Aprilia quality is first class.
Ciao
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3 hours ago, LowRyter said:
Heck, a ham fisted no skill guy can run any kind of pig around a track. So long as you're having fun and have no shame.
The session just before the front brake line let go. I hate when that happens.
What you want for a track bike is one you're not bothered about crashing and a bike that is so much better than you are that your total concentration and focus is on doing the actual riding and working on improving and enhancing your riding technique and skills.
You also dont want something that's so fast it scares you, or is too heavy or has significant shortcomings you need to compensate for. Its all about the riding not the bike.
Losing the brakes doesn't seem to full fill at least one of my criteria
Ciao
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2 hours ago, Scud said:
I don't know the specifics - just heard a few MV owners saying to avoid the F3 because it has problems. I haven't really looked into it myself as I figured if I ever really wanted an MV that I would get an early F4 with round pipes. There's a newer (square-pipe) F4 in my garage right now - not mine, but I have the key. It's so gorgeous...
But I hear the Triumph Daytona triple is a good, solid machine.
All my MV's were the early round pipe bikes with the TIG welded frames. They are absolutely beautiful engineering and go pretty well. Mine were kept in my lounge room and when I was single every woman I brought home was shocked to see a bike in a lounge room. After their first encounter though they all then completely accepted it as part of the furniture.
Still wish I had my 1000 but I'm still friendly with the woman that bought it off me about 10 years ago and she still has it.
I owned 3 triumphs in the past,one of the original Speed Triples and 2 of the later aluminium framed Daytona's. The ST was a pretty basic,weighty and top heavy old bus but ok. Both Daytonas were of a quality that in the end I wasn't willing to accept considering they cost more than the equivalent Honda at the time. Honda are my benchmark for mass produced motorcycle quality.
I got to know Triumph pretty well from a technical aspect back then as I also knew people that were racing them and preparing them for racing and I wasn't that impressed. Having said all that it was OMG 20 years ago now that I count back and from what I can gather the the current triples are very good things. The current Moto2 engines are basically a bored out and hotted up version of the 675 triple.
ciao
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8 minutes ago, Scud said:
Phil - do you have any experience with the MV F3s? Some of those are affordable, but I have heard mixed reviews.
Sorry Scud, none whatsoever. What issues do they have?
Ciao
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2 hours ago, Paul Minnaert said:
left one is 02114000 = centauro, right is from v11. Bottom to hole is 10 mm on left one 16 right. Diameter is same
Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met TapatalkBrilliant Paul thanks for that the image is perfect for comparison. I havent actually looked at the left side differences I've only looked at the right. Any chance you could take an image of the right side of the centy airbox from the same perspective?
Ciao
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11 minutes ago, Paul Minnaert said:
At the bottom in the airbox is the partnumber embossed in. The rubbers have same partnumbers for both.
Are you in a fire zone? My daughter left Australia because of it burning everywhere. She worked 3 month in Melborne preparing for a long holiday, and when they started that, the fires started. She went to Argentinia now.
Ok thats odd as my parts books show different numbers between the models. Maybe they changed over the years or i'm missing something.
I'm in a semi rural area to the NE of the city ( Melbourne) and so far the fires have not been an issue. NSW and the Sydney surrounds have been hit the worst with fires just about everywhere. The last 2 days here at home have been in the low 40's C with gusty hot northerly winds. Its like living in an oven but thankfully no fires.
Hopefully its a bit more relaxing for your daughter in Argentina. Better here in Melbourne for weather in the late spring and Autumn I think.
Ciao
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7 hours ago, Scud said:
Have you thought about a Triumph Daytona 675? Maybe an MV August F4? Older versions of both of those are quite reasonable (especially if if they've been laid down and scratched up). They are different enough to be distinctive, but still enjoyable on the street. I have ridden both those bikes on the street and enjoyed them both. If I was going racing, I'd start with a smaller bike, like the Daytona. The F4 is amazing bike, but I think it is way too much power for first time on the track. I could not use all the power on the street either, but the sound is glorious.
I've owned 3 MV F4's, 2 750's and a 1000. Such a work of art and one of the few bikes that look better with the bodywork off than on. Well to an engineering type that is. TIG welded frame( newer are now MIG welded unfortunately) and even the smallest unseen bracket is designed with form and beauty in mind.
The only issue with them is that they are a bit susceptible to frame damage on the cylinder head mount where it wraps around head in a low side crash and the cost and availability of parts. Early models also ran very hot especially in traffic to the point of overheating but the unfaired street fighter versions seemed to be ok in that respect.Oh the riding position is quite extreme as well for the road.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Paul Minnaert said:
The two airboxes (v11 and centy )I have here, have same diameter holes in them, but one has them 3mm higher than the other. Whats against lifting the airbox a bit, the tank is higher too.
The mounting rubbers in the airbox are the same for v11 and centy so the holes should be too I think. If you put the trumpets in from the inside airbox, with the rubbers, doesn't it fit, the rubbers take some play too.
Thanks for that info Paul, I'm working a lot by scaling dimensions of internet images as I dont have all the various parts in my hand.
The part numbers for the airbox rubbers is different between the centy and the V11 and the diameter of the centy inlet trumpets is 9.5mm larger than the V11. I tried fitting the V11 rubbers over the centy trumpets and you can stretch them to fit but I think they are just too tight to work when fitted to the box. I have a pair of new centy rubbers coming so that should be ok.
You may be able to lift the airbox a fraction if the holes are only 3mm difference as you say but you cant lift the airbox very much as the rear end of the side covers will then interfere with the tail unit. Without the side covers fitted you could probably space the airbox up quite a bit.
I have fitted the trumpets in the airbox without the rubbers and then tried to connect it to the throttle body and it seems to be a long way out. As I said it appears to be around 10mm too low but I havent started opening the hole in the airbox as I wanted to make sure I had covered all the possibilities before I started hacking away at the box. Thought I might be missing an obvious solution by just swapping out parts.
Thanks for providing me the info and if you can think of anything else or find out anymore from your contacts in the future I'd appreciate it. The purpose of me posting this is to share the process and solutions for others to maybe of use in the future.
I was using this image of the centy airbox to scale the openings.
Ciao
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26 minutes ago, Gmc28 said:
Ya, the Japanese 600 was the original plan. But there’s a decent chance i won’t get to go much, so am looking to see if there’s a bike that would do fine at the track, but also be something i’d Not mind pulling out on a sunny sunday now and then if it doesn’t get its blood (oil) pumping on a track day, and something i’d Be fond of having in the shop.
i know about anything can go on the track, so maybe i’m Just chasing my tail in trying to find the right “hybrid”. But phil, you’ve got that 1000DS... thats a neat machine, and is along the lines of what i’m Thinking about.
Yes the DS is a nice bike and I've used it a few times at Phillip Island as well as the tighter Broardford. I've done a few mods to it as well. Its a nice ride and a favourite of mine although they are a bit over geared.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Paul Minnaert said:
real daytona has complete different airbox. But daytona RS has airbox like the sport 1100i, the centy has different airbox. But that looks like the v11 sport one. In my parts list from centy en daytona RS the intake hoses have same part number, and also the part (small hose) fitting it in the airbox is the same. I just looked in my shed, and have two centy/v11 boxes, who are same size, bit not the same, one has air temp mounting top right, just under the filter. other not. I might have one more, in the garage 3 miles from home. Do not compare real daytona1000 parts thats different sure.
The centy airbox was made for when engine was 10mm to the right, now it's back center, so that one is mising the 10mm alignment too. I don't know if the intake from 2v and 4v is different. But Know of a lot of 4v to 2v frame conversions, and they never mentioned it. So aren't you trying to make it to perfect?
We are talking about the 10mm horizontal alignment?
I totally forgot about the engine offset effect on the airbox position in the frame, thanks for that info.
The 10mm misalignment is the vertical alignment not the horizontal.
So as far as I can see with the centy engine in the frame with the centy inlet trumpets and the V11 airbox fitted the airbox trumpet holes are going to need to be raised around 10mm. The V11 airbox holes are also a little smaller than the centy airbox holes due to the centy trumpets being larger in diameter than the V11. So the airbox holes need to be 10mm higher and around 5mm larger in diameter with the engine fitted with centy inlet manifolds(alloy manifolds bolted to the head) centy throttle bodies and centy plastic inlet trumpets. If there is some other combination of inlet manifolds and or trumpets that will mean I dont need to raise the holes in the V11 airbox it would be great to know. Opening up the airbox holes diameter by 5mm is easy but also raising them 10mm is tricky and will require plastic welding.
Here's an image of the installation Paul to give you a better understanding of the issue. I've cut a paper disk the size and position of the hole required to be in the V11 airbox to mate with the Centy throttle bodies and plastic inlet trumpets and taped it to the V11 airbox. Note the area that will need to be filled with palstic weld from the 3 to 7 oclock position. As far as I can see anyway unless you have info from the others you know that have done the conversion?
It seems some of the 4v/2v conversions also went with pod filters. Not all, but some I have images of. The ones that didnt my images dont have enough resolution to pick the details.
Ciao
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36 minutes ago, LowRyter said:
I've known a few folks that have purpose built track bikes and all from totalled Japanese bikes, SV-650, 500 Ninja, GSX-R series.
They're cheap, reliable and have lots of aftermarket support and bodywork. Donor bikes are pretty cheap at the auction or Craigslist. The exception I know about is a fellow in the Ducati club and he runs a new $20k Duc 959 Panigale Corse on track that he rides on the street as well. But it's not a dedicated track bike.
Yes thats me, my primary track bike is a GSXR1000 K7 (2007) I use that for Phillip Island and secondary Island bike is a Ducati 1198. My 2003 Ducati 1000DS at the small and tight Broardford track. The Suzuki and the 1198 would be too much bike there.
My advice is to go for a second hand Japanese 600 thats had cosmetic crash damage and fit it up with race glass, good tires and a muffler. It will be a way faster track bike than you are a rider and will take a beating with almost zero maintenance. The very last thing you want to be dealing with on a track day is doing any type of mechanical work on the bike. At most some basic suspension adjustments. You want to be totally focused on the riding and enjoying the day not the bike and the best way to do that is with a Japanese bike, plus you wont be crying if you crash it. No emotional attachment,its just a tool. Just like a pro racer:)
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Gmc28 said:
Thanks all. I’ll try AF1 in Texas later this week when they’d be open, i’ll Try calling later this week the local guzzi place which google says is “closed permanently” (via the same search i always have done to find their number), and footgoose.... thx for the offer, but i’m Just looking for the metal bracket that holds the front brake reservoir. Its the one that fell apart on the maiden voyage from the buyer’s place in OK this fall. On that trip i just grabbed $2 worth of plumbers strapping, and folded it over with some JB weld. Actually looks surprisingly ok as-is, but it ain’t right, so was just looking for the replacement part.
i’m going to just bend a little aircraft aluminum to fashion a simple replacement bracket, which should work fine, but probably rather have the real piece at some point. Casual winter pursuit. But the whole thing about the shop showing as permanently closed is the real bummer. We’ll see...
Dave, i meant to try and hit one of the local goose club meetings this summer, but summer is of course busy for probably all of us, and certainly thats true on my end with the fire season, so never found time. Will do so hopefully at some point. Plus they seem to always meet on the east side, quite a ways from my cozy (far) west side location.
still working on wrapping up some basic maintenance on another bike, and am gathering parts and pieces for when i can start in on the v11, hopefully soon. I sold my 2010 Multistrada and picked up a Multistrada enduro last winter. Got a great deal, but the fellow that had it (and ended up needling to get out from under the payments) did some really goofy stuff to it, which i’m now trying to un-screw. Shouldn’t take long, but i keep finding fun surprises that require more attention... 6gauge wire coiled under seat, running through a 50a fuse block that he wanted to use to run a winch (ya... i know...), and make it even goofier that 6ga had little 14ga connectors, and all sorts of other strange things. Fortunately its all fairly easy to undo, so far.
happy holidays all, especially you down under, enjoying summer!
I can recommend Harpers even for someone living on the other side of the world.
Ciao
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3 hours ago, Paul Minnaert said:
The centauro and v11 airbox look the same, only the centy one doesn't have the mountpoints for the sidecovers.
Do you have the centauro trumpets?
I did cut a centy airbox once.....
Yes Paul I have the Centy trumpets. I wouldnt mind trying a Centy airbox to see if it fits. I'm sure I could just use Ducati style well nuts to secure the side covers. I've got a few images of this V11 conversion and the airbox and trumpets look quite neat but I'm just not sure which way they have gone, modified V11 box or a centy box with mounts for the side covers which I do want to retain.
I'm also not sure if the Daytona inlet trumpets are a different shape to the Centy ones and whether or not this would make using the V11 airbox easier. The part numbers are different. Funnily enough the Centy and the MGS-01 trumpets are the same part number.
The MGS,Daytona and the Centy all have different numbers for the inlet manifolds but this may be due to the different colours,not sure. Any enlightenment would be appreciated.
Ciao
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44 minutes ago, gstallons said:
I will never understand how stupid manufacturers can be . These guys will allow a Mom & Pop operation to close instead of working with them . All these idiots want a brand new store next to the interstate with $50k worth of apparel in the showroom and 12 employees selling you s**t you don't want .
Some of it has to do with "brand placement" you know that perception strategy that your brand is funky,sexy,classy,urbane or whatever the "creatives" in the marketing department think it needs to be. They dictate what your shop layout and look needs to be etc and the demographic you're aiming at and if you dont comply they ditch you no matter how good your history as a brand representative has been . Sorry you're just not part of our overall brand strategy going forward kind of bullshit.
Dont get me started, opps I already have,sorry.
Ciao
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V11 Daytona project
in Technical Topics
Posted
Update, I've been fabricating the front tank mount which has been a challenge conceptually and in a manufacturing sense mainly because I dont have Chucks skills or equipment. A mill would have been handy and if I was making dozens of them water cutting would have been an option but as it stood it was all old fashion hand work from 4mm steel plate. The objectives were to raise the tank around 40 mm and have the fwd mount be adjustable in the horizontal and the vertical, use the original tank mounts unmolested if possible and control any tendency for the new mount to rock back and forth.
The mount here in the images still needs the brass spacers replaced with Titanium ones which I'll machine up from stock which I have. These are just bushes I had around that fit the purpose for mocking up. The vertical plates holding the tank rubbers are tapped to accept 6mm bolts and I'll use some ti nuts as lock nuts, just belt and braces. Originally I was going to use internally threaded Ti rods between the side plates to not only anchor the them together but also to rest on the frame top surface front and rear to prevent the mounts rocking. I have instead tapped the vertical plates the front and rear feet of which contact the top face of the frame to prevent rocking. I'll bond some SS shims onto the frame to prevent chafing.
The vertical plates will be joined by some 18mm hex alloy bar necked down (so I can get a spanner on it) in the middle and tapped internally both ends to eliminate the mount rubber nuts seen here and connect the two sides together. So I have around 20 mm for and aft adjustment and 15 mm vertical. I also need to make up the spacers between the mount rubbers and the vertical pieces. All the spacers and fasteners will be Ti with the 4 horizontal side plate ones hex head bolts.
I will then Blue the steel stuff. I'd rather passive cad plate them but that's always problematical these finding platers that will do small stuff.
The tank outlet and return with the reg will change sides as will the fuel pump to give better clearance to the throttle bodies and the TPS. I have fitted the fuel filter and I need to make an alloy bracket to mount the regulator laying flat on top of the frame backbone in front of the fuel filter using the old fuel filter mounts.
Final tank position
reg clearance
Fuel tap clearance
Tank Mount
Fuel filter in the background now sharing the the airbox bracket mount. I'll still run the airbox lid but most of the snorkels will go to make room for the fuel filter. The Alt Reg will mount flat in front of the filter using the old filter mount. Not my first choice for a location due to the engine heat but my 1198 unit is in a lot worse location right behind the oil cooler.
Ciao