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Lucky Phil

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Posts posted by Lucky Phil

  1. 2 hours ago, audiomick said:

    Hmm, sweating a wee bit of oil here and there, but looks good. :)

     

    I kind of like it when the seller doesn't do a thorough clean on the bike before he takes the photos. It take that as meaning that there is possibly nothing to hide. Or he doesn't give a toss.... B)

    Usually the latter Mick. I once bought a Ducati ST2 off a friend as a "favour" to him. He needed the cash. It was out of rego, been dropped on the right side and the Termi can carbon cover was held on with cable ties, the rear disk was undersize and required replacement to get through rego, the LCD fuel gauge was broken and didn't work, the front wheel bearings were shot, the r/h fairing was cracked from the drop and he hadn't washed it in 18 months. He wanted $7200 for it when they were asking $7400 for a low mileage mint one, so probably get it for $7000. I offered him $6000 and I'd take care of the rego inspection and repairs and he didn't have the hassle of advertising it. It ended up costing me an extra $1800 to repair plus rego. So $8400 all up and lots of work to own a well used and unloved ST2 as a favour to a friend when I could have had a mint one for $7000 maybe $7200 tops and zero work. 

    Outcome. I now owned a bike I never particularly wanted to own and he thought I'd taken financial advantage of him and he never spoke to me again. People, go figure. 

     

    Phil

    • Confused 1
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  2. 2 hours ago, docc said:

    Pretty sure, yes: "All 15M in the USA."

    Not sure I have ever heard of a "2006" V11. Or even a 2005 in the USA. I was thinking the 2005 Scura R was the last of the breed, but have never heard of one of those in the USA . . .

    Ha, just checked MCS and the last V11 year model listed is the 2003 Ballabio. Here's me thinking they made them until 2006. I told you I find the year model thing confusing. 

    Phil 

  3. 11 hours ago, Gritman said:

    My two pennorth on the tps discussion…. About a decade ago I built my first V10 engined V11 and at that time Guzzidiag was relatively new and while aware of it, I’d not used it. I’d seen folks doing the engine swap and keeping the 16M. I’d had some experience of the 16M fitting a Creedon chip to my Centauro, but liked the idea of the 15M and using Guzzidiag to dial in the fuelling etc. I’d also lusted after an MGS01 and noted that it too used the 15M. I chose to use a V11 donor bike for the 6-speed box (MGS01 again) hydraulic clutch, better transmission and - importantly - the shorter wheelbase and steeper fork rake of the earlier models. Still got that bike and love it. It still wasn’t quite there though. A bit too heavy and you can never have too much power 💪. With a spare V10 motor sitting in the workshop, the idea of my (presently troublesome)project bike began to form. So some 7 years later and lighter by way more than I’d budgeted, here we are. IMHO this is a poor man’s MGS01, and considered that way it’s quite a bargain - and with its old school appearance looks the dogs bollocks. It’s a shame that I’ve aged so much and ruined a shoulder in the meantime but  blasting around the Dorset countryside on it makes me as happy as any man has the right to be. 

     This wonderful forum has been a source of technical know how, advice and moral support throughout all this! Thanks and Ride on Brothers👍

    Now, time to go and get some new plugs and fuel and sort this thing out. Summers coming 🌞 

    This reminds me the MGS01 came with the 15M and PF09. Next time I connect GD I'll select MGS01 from the drop down box.

     

    Phil

    • Like 1
  4. 52 minutes ago, pete roper said:

    Daytona, Centy and Sport-I all use the 16M controller to the best of my knowledge.

    Thats true Pete but mine and Gritmans use the 15M with PF09 TPS's. Although the images of the Sport IE I have seen uses the PF03 TPS:huh2:

     

    Phil 

  5. 5 hours ago, audiomick said:

    You do that from the "settings" menu before you connect.

     

    I'm not absolutely sure, but I think my 2002 Le Mans comes up with that

     

    Once again not absolutely sure, but I think it does. I.e. you tell it what to expect, and then it checks to make sure. But I could be wrong there.

    What I'm sure about is that it shows you the version number of the map that is actually installed in that box. If, however, the map has been changed and the name of the file hasn't, that could perhaps lead to confusion.

     

    EDIT: if anyone desperately wants to know for sure, I could ask Bernd directly on the German forum.

     

    I know Mick I've done it a quite a few times. My question is probably better phrased, "What selection do you make for model from the initial drop down box". 

     

    That would be weird as the PF09 never reached the V11 series, it was dumped with the Daytona and Centauro I think and didn't even make the 1100IE Sport either I don't think. 

     

    Phil

  6. 7 hours ago, Gritman said:

    A query here as I'm at wits end....... have just completed a gearbox rebuild and reassembled the bike, not expecting any problems in firing it up again. However, despite good sparks and wet plugs, it will not fire. I've re-checked all the wiring and connections which are all fine. I've even swapped out the crank position sensor (a pattern item was installed so replaced with OE Magnetti Marelli SEN8I3) and ECU (rewriting to correct fuel map) from the working road bike. All to no avail....

    It doesnt make any sense. Sparks, fuel and an operating ECU should result in at least some popping and farting surely? Everything else works fine!

    The only factor I'm unsure about is the status shown on Guzzidiag of 00001000. Does anyone know what this means?

    Any other checks I may have overlooked?

    Screenshot 2024-03-07 Diag.png

    Screenshot 2024-03-07 150341.png

    How old is the fuel? Does it have actual fuel pressure ( I know the plugs are wet but maybe the fuel pressure is low and that just causes fuel puddling worse than normal in the intake manifold and drowns the spark) how long since it's been previously run? Are you using std plugs or fine wire plugs? ( once FW plugs are fouled they are junk) Not sure about the GD issue. How do you select the model of bike from the drop down box? I use V11 Sport for my V10 Sport with the same ECU and TPS as you but I'm not sure if I get the IAW15M PF09 or IAW15M PF03C. I think the latter. The TPS identifier shouldn't matter as they are both non linier but what std model uses a 15M PF09 configuration? I can't think of any unless GD reads the actual TPS fitted.

    My bike used to be very hard to start and keep running during warm up before I re mapped the cranking enrichment map and revised the engine temp enrichment break points which were based on the V11 sport 2 valve engine in my original 8 valve maps. Now it's very good to start and warm up. There is a process however. Open the fast idle 90% and don't touch the throttle and it fires up withing a few seconds on the starter and goes to 1800 rpm. From there you can back off the fast idle to around 1500 rpm and after about 30 seconds you can use it to keep the rpm at that figure for a minute or two then ride it. 

    Phil

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. 3 hours ago, docc said:

    I can only recall one member here using a 150 on the 4.5" rim.

    Last year I had the unique opportunity to see three early V11 Sport parked next to one another with three different size rear tires: 160, 170, and 180.

    The angle of the sidewall looked most natural with the 160 while the 180 looked decidedly stressed.

    Yes a 180 on a 4.5 rim is wrong and I don't know anything about tyres.

    Phil

  8. 6 hours ago, docc said:

    The horn and tachometer get their power through Relay#2. On the early Sport this relay, in turn, gets the power from the weak contact of Relay#1.

    If you have not done so already, replace the entire relay set with a "Best" High Current relay from Pickers Components, CIT, (or OMRON if you can find them):

     

    Otherwise, check that your battery and charging voltages are adequate...

    Relays, Ignition switch, Connectors, earths, R.I.C.E. The V11 Sport electrical troubleshooting guide.

     

    Phil

    • Like 4
  9. 5 hours ago, Skip said:

    Great Job KINDOY2, All the Right Stuff 

     

               Did we see this bike at last years Fall Spine Raid?  Note zip tie on Right fork leg, every one should do this and check multiple times each ride. Pays dividends in suspension setup. 

     SKIP

    Umm, really. Don't know about others but once I've set up the preload and compression damping to my riding and road conditions I don't need a travel indicator again. Besides a slight smear of grease with your finger indicates just as well when the dust seal wipes it down under compression.  

    Phil

    • Like 1
  10. 3 hours ago, motortouring said:

    I am not sure, I will try and find a spec, but I thought the minimum voltage was often a problem. If I look at the wiring diagram, then I would say that the direct battery connection is part of the solution. 

    Edit:

    It should be 14.0-14.6Volt

    https://sunonbattery.com/properly-charge-lifepo4-battery/

    12,6-14.4V is the voltage that I measure. And I use a not-so-accurate digital voltage meter/USB charger. But that is nice to see if the voltage is stable.

    But as said, I plan to go to the LiFePO4 but the cheap Yuasa is for the moment good enough.

    The problem with the direct battery solution is there is a parasitic drain now on the battery when the bike is parked which along with the parasitic drain from the ECU causes the battery to lose charge fairly rapidly. The OEM design eliminates this because when the ignition key is turned off the reg is isolated due to it voltage sensing being from the light wiring circuit. The problem with the OEM arrangement is that the light circuit wiring is marginal in it's ability to carry the current without the voltage sagging when the lights are on and because the reg senses essentially battery voltage from the lighting circuit it reads the "sagged" voltage when you have the lights on. This then overcharges the battery. Instead of the reg reading actual battery voltage it reads battery voltage minus 1 volt usually. The solution is what I did years ago and is to run a separate supply for the headlights and fit mini relays in the headlight shell. This cures the voltage sag with the headlights on, eliminates the high current that the headlight switch normally has to carry and keeps the reg wired as per OEM which isolates it with the ignition switch off and avoids the parasitic drain when parked.

     

    Phil  

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  11. 4 hours ago, Guzzi-in-Vancouver said:

    That is stunning. Would love to see the top of the tank ... maybe the angle is fooling me, but it sure looks like a long-tank!

    Was there some doubt with a 2004 build date?

     

    Phil

  12. 7 hours ago, Scud said:

    Trimming - I set up a little template and used a cutting wheel on a dremel tool.

    Length/interference - I don't think the issue was with the cover. I think the interference was with another moving part. The "right angle tab" only needs to be as long as the thickness of the part that it rests on. I might have posted a photo in the re-engineering the shift spring topic... but that could take hours to find...

    I asked only because some of my springs have a cut end on the bent arm and some a ground finish.

    Having trouble coming to terms with one of the Chuck/Scud springs ended up in that condition almost immediately after fitment. Something other than the spring is wrong here.

    Phil

  13. 3 hours ago, Scud said:

    Also - one batch of springs I had a section that was too long. It was the short arm at the 90-degree bend. I trimmed them all by hand, but it's possible that I left a few too long. When you re-assemble, be sure that short arm is not catching on anything.

    Happy to send a free replacement spring - and a few free extras for your shop. (but sorry, not free international shipping).

    I'm looking at my spare springs Scud, how did you trim them? cutter or grinder? How overlong do they have to be to cause an issue with the cover?

     

    Phil

  14. Plot thickens. I scaled the image as best I could and it does appear that the right angle tab on the end of the spring is significantly longer than the stock spring. Maybe this one missed the trim process and was catching on the cover?

    Phil

  15. 19 minutes ago, Scud said:

    Oh wait... reading back on this thread, and looking at your photo, that does appear to be first failure of new spring I have ever seen. And it looks like the poor thing was completely mangled - in a way I have not ever seen before.

    What is happening inside that transmission?  Inquiring minds want to know.

    Hmm, I smell something fishy here. That image isn't from a simple fatigue failure thats something bazar and or possibly self inflicted. Does this bike have the old original and faulty oversize shift arm boss?

    Phil 

    • Like 3
  16. 14 minutes ago, gstallons said:

    Ohhhh , I understand and know how righteous these things are. I was looking into different wheels after I had my bike for a while . Of course the prices were absurd . A member here had advertised his for sale after a crash & burn . I think he posted them and I closed the deal w/in ! hour .  I do not regret this absurd purchase one second !

    They were cheaper than my PVM Wheels.

    Phil

  17. 26 minutes ago, Steve S said:

    That’s not very friendly is it?

    i think that should be directed at the OP

    The British don't have much of a handle on Aussie sense of humour. Probably something to do with brilliant idea of shipping the convicts to paradise all those years ago while the rest stayed in England to bask in the Pommie weather and warm beer for the next 250 years. You find my comment unfriendly but are happy for me to re direct it onto someone else? Jamming things into other things and applying significant torque to fasteners rarely ends well. The original mistake has regrettably and obviously occurred, no need to compound the disaster by suggesting other dubious techniques. 

     

    Phil

    • Like 1
  18. 3 minutes ago, gstallons said:

    I paid that much for mine and I would not take that to remove them from my bike. Until you see them ON your motorcycle you do not understand what they mean to you !

    I think that was my point.

     

    Phil

  19. 2 hours ago, gstallons said:

    The Alpina wheels are $3500 !

    Well actually no. They may have "cost" $3500 new and I like them but "worth" is another matter and judged in the eyes of the buyer. I'd buy it tomorrow if I lived in the US. Nice looking bike.

     

    Phil

    • Like 1
  20. 1 hour ago, motortouring said:

    So no stability problems with the longer shock :D

    I think I am going to order the long Wilbers for my red frame as well.

    I've had a Wilbers on my bike for 10 years. I must have recommended these at least a dozen times here over the years. Ignored I am Ignored:P

    • Haha 3
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