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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Well I'm not prosecuting a case that the new bikes deflectors are the last word in aerodynamic efficiency or functionality but I can see aerodynamic logic and function there although a better view up close would be nice. Time will tell I guess. BTW a header shaped like this doesn't need any mechanical support, it's a pretty basic header in the scheme of things really and not even very long. A std v11 header is considerably longer than this one and so less supported. Ciao
  2. Well I won't. I always let the "first adopters" "must have the latest and greatest" "everyone look at me and my new model bike" crowd finish off the R&D for the factory, iron out the production issues and let the dealership mechanics use their bikes as a learning tool first. I usually slide in after a couple of years when the design has had a bit of time to "mature" Ciao
  3. Umm, I think you're taking the opinion of a non technical, "social media commentator", millennial a little to seriously. As an aircraft engineer I figure I know something about aerodynamics and as opposed to a previous poster that proffered the idea it's a mechanical support of the header I actually think its an aerodynamic guide/redirector/deflector for hot air from the back of the header away from the foot peg area and riders feet. If you look closely it appears the deflectors forward edge is a little bit inside the line of the inside of the header pipe and captures the the trailing hot air from that area and redirects it back outboard across the lower part of the header pipe and heat shield and away from the riders foot and lower leg. Guzzi have a fairly proud history with regards to aerodynamics which guarantees nothing but it seems to be functional to me. Ciao
  4. What makes you think a fights going to start, but since you mentioned it. I know pete had in his mind the context of modified automotive/motorcycle engines here but because I'm a front bottom I'll remind him anyway that without the Supercharged/turbocharger spark ignition engine we'd all be speaking German now, lol. Mind you without it there probably wouldn't have been WW2 to start with. The supercharged spark engine was fitted to aircraft, tanks, patrol boats plus probably other stuff I can't recall. Ciao
  5. Yes unless they are designed for it from the drawing board. Both my cars are Turbos but they are designed for torque not top end like days gone by. It's quite amazing when you drive a new 3.8 litre V6 and it feels like you need to rev the tits off it compared to your 2.0 litre turbo SUV daily driver which thoroughly out grunts it. Ciao
  6. Well either way, I guess. There is the "nobody else's got one like this" factor which I don't get either personally. It's a big deal for some apparently and for those that it is rationality doesn't seem to come into it. Being "different" overrides everything else. Maybe I'm just weird. Ciao
  7. Your new fitting will need std 5/16 or 8mm injector hose. The female hose QD fitting is a std type I believe. Pretty sure I've seen them advertised around. Ciao
  8. My bike has a very low set toe piece on the shift lever, that's why the stand is an issue with the lever still fitted. YMMV. Ciao
  9. If you mean the air temp trim then it's influence isn't massive. When the sensors fail the ecu generally has a "default" or std setting so the engine will run pretty decent on a std day. May be harder to start and/or warm up but unless it's particularly hot or cold it should run fine. So a std V11 air temp trim only varies about 3% from 0 deg C to 40 deg C. The engine temp trim about 18% from O deg C to 90 deg C operating temp. Same for the baro sense. The original baro sensor in my bike had failed and I rode around for years no knowing because all my riding is at sea level. On a std V11 map you'd need to ride at an elevation of more than about 2500 feet before the baro trim would affect running to any appreciable degree. Ciao
  10. But why? I can understand people wanting to give expression to their mechanical/design skills but surely that needs to be tempered by some rationality. So you add weight and complexity to an already overweight combination and introduce extra heat and cooling issues to an engine that already suffers in that regard. The compromises made are pretty outrageous. I haven't even sat down and looked at it in real detail but the air filter mounted where it is and the acute bends in the pressure ducting makes me not bother continuing any further examination. Modifications need to have a little more to offer than the "look at me" factor in my view. Irrational engineering is a pointless exercise. Ciao
  11. Guzzidiag isn't designed to work with the MYecu as far as I know. Have you contacted Cliff Jeffries? I have a Myecu and it has it's own stand alone communications system. Ciao
  12. The ultrasonic cleaner. Pull the entire brakes assembly off including the hoses and master then run the callipers only in the cleaning rig. Ciao
  13. I've never found anything that will remove the yellowish oil stain from silver engine paint after long exposure. Ciao
  14. That's a question for the factory cause that's what they did and the answer is a simple one. It's more in their interest the bolts never come out unintentionally than it is to make any replacement/maintenance straight forward. Future maintenance years or miles down the track is of zero concern to the factory. As a matter of fact if components get damaged during future maintenance then they make money out of spares. Witness the Weber throttle bodies 5mm screws fitted with green Loctite for goodness sake. Weber have zero concern for anyone disassembling them in years to come but are quite interested that screws dont loosen any time in the near future which may bite them. Blue Loctite would be understandable but Green just says "we have zero regard for future maintenance" Ciao
  15. Lovely. You know docc for me the sound and "feel" of a vehicle are massively important and why if I'm forced into a situation where every vehicle I own has to be an EV I'll just find another hobby/interest. Don't mind an EV Daily Driver in the slightest as a conveyance to get me from A to B but I could never become an EV "enthusiast". Too much character missing. As an aside my car has FENG ( fake engine noise generator) which is fake exhaust sound through the audio system, totally pathetic and it doesn't really need it anyway. That's maybe the EV future, a fake " emotional" system. You'll be taking your car to the mechanic because it "doesn't feel good" and he'll reboot the "emotion" generator. God help us all. Ciao
  16. Sounds feasible. Something like this may work but why not buy an original Ohlins and do as I suggested. Take the guess work out of it. https://www.suspension.com/9.9149
  17. Sound more like an opportunity than a shame. Ciao
  18. Top is rebound bottom is compression. Guzzi manuals are riddled with mistakes some of which are translation related and some because they obviously get the girl in the office fresh out of he Literature degree to create them. "Hey, isa justa words and pictures for the anglo's" Ciao
  19. It's about the "look" docc. That's the real reason mine has one. Ciao
  20. Yep, but the important thing is to apply equal opposing force to the plastic fitting when you are pushing and pulling on the hose during the process. Ciao
  21. Those connectors aren't really suitable for a hose and clamp situation docc. The locking collar is quite high and a long way onto the projection so you've got a lot of hose to push onto the projection over the retaining collar section ( which would be hard unless you reduced it's dia a bit) and then a hose clamp at the end without a lot of room left. Too much on a delicate fitting. It seems they work ok if you know the technique for releasing them and make sure you support the fitting when removing and refitting the QR hose. People break them by using poor technique and being ham fisted. You can buy after market metal versions but they are expensive. ciao
  22. Yes, you can damage the shock internally if it bottoms out. Ciao
  23. The bump stop. It's what prevents damage to the shock internals when it bottoms out. You need to remove the spring and the eye end to replace it and removing the eye end is no joke even for a "shock expert". It involves heating the eye end to get it hot enough to to release the thread locker then a shaft holding tool, sometimes even in a shop press to hold the shock shaft to undo the eye end. I would cut a shallow groove around the perimeter of a new bumper that will accommodate an electrical tie wrap then cut it so you can spread it and slip it over the shaft and use the tie wrap to clamp it in place again. Ciao
  24. Seems doable Will the seat still fit? they run close to the base. Ciao
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