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Lucky Phil

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Posts posted by Lucky Phil

  1. 3 hours ago, activpop said:

    I have my own opinions, but would value yours. I have a friend who wants to get back on a bike again after a 25 year lay off. He wants a Guzzi, but I suggested he could entertain other makes also for his first one. I'm not ruling a Moto Guzzi out though. What models would be a good bet for him, either new or used? Price won't really be an issue. I will rule out most ADV bikes because of seat height, weight and higher center of gravity. He is not tall but is inclined to buy something more unique. There are plenty of used bikes to choose from, that's for sure.

    I'm going to sound like a broken record here but this every day of the week.

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    Phil

    • Like 5
  2. 21 minutes ago, docc said:

    This sort of thing is precisely why I exited the College of Engineering at university . . .

    When a deflection of 6mm is applied in the x-axis to the upper mounting point, calculate the mm change in position of the rear mounting point in the y-axis:

    Screen%20Shot%202023-12-30%20at%204.07.1

    It would be easier to just go out and swap shocks docc, lol. My 2-3mm is clearly wrong as I halved the additional shock length instead of doubling it and subtracting a bit for the shock and swingarm angle. BTW the Penske suggestion is a good one. I've had one of these apart on the race bike and they are excellent quality and a step above the OEM Ohlins. People don't realise that Ohlins suspension comes in different grades and the OEM stuff while decent isn't the magic gold people thing it is. It's a marketing exercise by the manufacturers more than a massive upgrade in suspension quality. The Ohlins "benefit" has reduced as time has passed because the Japanese/Italian OEM suspension is so much better than it used to be. I say this not to denigrate the Ohlins stuff but to make people aware that there is many other superior options out there from aftermarket manufacturers that people seem to ignore in the "worship of the gold". The money asked for a second hand Ohlins shock for a V11 is ridiculous these days when you can buy a superior tailored shock of better quality new. Remember the original V11 Ohlins shock is now 25 year old tech and materials

     

    Phil

     

     

     

    • Like 4
  3. On 12/30/2023 at 1:20 AM, mjseymo said:

    Hi All, very useful info. I have a short frame and want to change the Sachs unit.  Will the extra 5mm change the seat height too? I'm short in the leg and just wanted to check. Thanks.

    Yes by maybe 2-3mm.

    Phil

    [edit: corrected by Phil in his post later in the day (six posts below):

    "My 2-3mm is clearly wrong as I halved the additional shock length instead of doubling it and subtracting a bit for the shock and swingarm angle. "

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  4. 5 hours ago, activpop said:

    I can't tell you how many people I see riding in the summer with shorts, tank tops and sneakers. On I-5 going over 70mph or zipping around town, makes no matter. If it's hot, it's time to get skimpy...but we must have helmets on here in Oregon. We could wind up looking like a human scab, but our face will always look good. 

    It's called "natural selection". 

    Phil

    • Like 2
  5. 4 hours ago, alannn said:

    Looking at Hyperpro catalog, they show the same emulsion shock, type 460, model MG11-0AA, for many different V11 models, from 1998-2005. But for their type 461 ("hose reservoir"), model MG11-1AA, they show fitment for V11 SPORT, 1998 and up, only.

    https://hyperpro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/HYPERPRO-Shockabsorbers.pdf

    Do short frame and long frame V11's require different rear shocks? In a nutshell, I want their type 461 on a 2002 Lemans. What additional hardware is needed to fit an external reservoir in the same location as the Ohlin equipped V11's beside the left porkchop?

    Final question, what is the extra shock length required for raising rear to match the Ohlin equipped bike spec?

     

     

    Just buy the top of the range Wilbers shock. Adjustable everything. H/lo speed compression, hydraulic preload adjuster, low speed rebound and shock length. The preload adjuster and reservoir fit the std Sachs mount.

    Phil 

    • Like 5
  6. 6 hours ago, audiomick said:

    @Lucky Phil I went looking for info on that bloke in the video.

    Found this about the "Manhatten Institute"

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manhattan_Institute_for_Policy_Research

    and enough about the speaker to recognise with a reasonable amount of reliability that he is a hard-core conservative capitalist.

    I'm not saying he's telling fibs, but I'm convinced he's pushing a pretty big barrow. B)

    Without a doubt. 

    Phil

    • Like 1
  7. 3 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

    That doesn't seem right! What's your source? 

    Ha doesn't seem right! Here's another fact for you. To go to a full electric/renewable economy the world will need a 400% increase in the mining and production of Copper alone over and above what we currently produce. It takes on average 17 years from inception to digging the first ton of ore for a copper mine and the people that want to close down fossil fuel energy production are also the people that want to close down mining! Ever seen the steel and concrete used in anchoring down a wind turbine? Go and look on youtube at that and count the energy costs. To give you some idea its a hole in the ground about 75 metres across and 30 metres deep full of concrete and steel reo and we haven't even got to the building of the tower and generator which are high maintenance items even land based. The blades are life limited and currently are disposed of in land fill! Utopian dreaming.

    Phil    

    • Like 3
  8. On 12/3/2023 at 5:40 PM, KINDOY2 said:

    I like the MV Superveloce in some ways..but imho...That fairing and headlight look cheap and doesn't flow with the rest of the bike.

    Design perceptions, what a topic. There is something to consider in the design and aesthetics of just about everything and this is it. Am I emotionally responding to something that's is beautiful and in harmony with the overall concept or am I responding to it just being "different". The latter doesn't stand the test of time where the former does.

     

    Phil

     

  9. 58 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

    They *ARE* crash bars.

    lol

    I wonder what costs more, Ago exhaust or stock valve covers?

    If you want to get the definitive aftermarket exhaust option design wise for the V100 then wait for Akrapovic to offer a full system. They are the gold standard in exhaust design and quality in my view. You can't believe how well an exhaust system is made and fits until you've had a full Akra system in your hands and installed one.

     

    Phil  

    • Like 3
  10. What are Agostinis thinking. You could drive a truck between those new header pipes and the cylinder block. Nicely shaped and tucked in they are not. A tighter bend to get the pipe closer to the block and tucked in won't have any affect on the performance gains if there are indeed any at all. As for the sound, far too loud. If it sounds loudish revving at a standstill on a whiff of throttle then under load with the throttle blades really open it will be obnoxiously loud. The clue is in the size of the muffler. You can't efficiently silencer a 1000cc twin with a muffler of that physical dimension. 

    It saves weight but the trade off is noise and headers that stick out like a set of crash bars.

     

    Phil 

    • Like 3
  11. Was that the spooge docc? Have you ever replaced/checked the sealing between the tank flange/cap adaptor and the tank itself?

    This is what the old caps seal looked like ( not the OEM cap but another ebay cap) the flat seal they use is Nitrile and over compressed. They don't last for anyone thinking of using an ebay cap. They either do this or swell and distort badly. FKM material is the solution as usual and getting the compression of the seal correct.. 

     

    Phil  

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    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  12. New tank cap. Required a bit of modification to work. I made up a new FKM flat seal as the originals don't hold up. A new vent tube in fuel proof tube as the original clear tube isn't fuel proof, some standoffs to get the compression of the flange gasket correct and a 2mm flange washer to get the distances and seal compression correct on the main seal. These Chinese caps are cheap and well made although they are short on the design details that are important for a proper fit that seals correctly. You won't be aware of this until one day if the bike falls over or you fill the tank too much and you get fuel leaking everywhere out of the cap assembly. Titanium fasteners, naturally. The last thing you need is fuel leaking out the cap assy onto a hot engine in the event of a silly tip over.

    Phil  

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    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
  13. On 11/30/2023 at 10:30 AM, p6x said:

    Just for the sake of the discussion, with regards to the Martin / Marquez collision, from looking at the video, Martin attempts to squeeze in the inside past Marquez. Marquez sees it coming, and release the brakes; Martin no longer has the ability to pass Marquez, however because of his residual speed, he can't make the turn. He would have had intended to be in front of Marquez, not behind. Marquez could have let him go through, and pick him up as Jorge Martin would have not been able to keep the apex anyway.

    For Bezzecchi and Marquez, I could not find a replay of the crash;

    Here's a YT video showing some stills. It appears that Bezzecchi is ahead of Marquez.

     

    I've seen footage from a bunch of different angles and any other rider would have been given a long lap penalty no doubt at all. He's a bit like Johnny Rea in WSB, a protected species.

     

    Phil

    • Like 1
  14. On 12/6/2023 at 12:45 AM, OldButNotDead said:

    Given all the great input, I'm guessing my main clutch issue was resolved with a new slave cylinder piston seal, but I'll also want to revise some maintenance practices. Thanks for all the suggestions!

    I have changed out all the brake/clutch fluid every year - using a Mityvac to pull fluid out through Speedbleeders. I assumed that if there's little/no air in the system when I start, and I don't run the reservoir dry, it should be all good. I do try to re-bleed if it feels noticeably spongy. My current thought is that the tacky sealant on the Speedbleeder has dried out, letting some air enter, giving the feel of a broader clutch engagement/disengagement zone.

    If I find the clutch well-behaved next season, I'll plan to install a remote bleeder for the clutch slave, and extend my relationship with this beast. Longer term, it's not clear that I am enthusiast enough to continue fighting the increasingly demanding maintenance battle that will be needed. I have dallied with the idea of moving to a more casual relationship with a new Triumph 400 that's 150 lbs lighter, and in concept might provide a similar joy of movement.

    Buy yourself one of these. With a pair of AEW stainless silencers as shown it'll be about 90lbs lighter. Smooth as silk, abs, low C of G and parts are dirt cheap. Quality is very good. Can't go wrong.

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  15. 20 hours ago, po18guy said:

    For future needs, check RaceTi for titanium, and RaceBoltUK in England for aluminum, stainless and Ti fasteners. Great people to deal with.

    Personally I buy my Ti fasteners from Chinese  manufacturers off ebay. The manufacturers you mentioned have massive markups on their stuff. Previous to that I bought from Toronto Cycles whose prices were far more realistic than the specialist names. 

     

    Phil 

    • Like 1
  16. 6 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

    Congrats are getting your girl back, both of them, lol!

     

    I know people are skeptical, but at $360 dollars, my AliExpress injectors are still performing fantastic, thousands of miles later. 

    I've seen flow rate comparisons between Chinese injectors of the same type and design to check consistency. It wasn't impressive. I'd spend the money getting originals cleaned if possible or if using Chinese injectors I'd buy twice as many as you need and get them flow tested and best matched. 

    There's a reason they are dirt cheap.

     

    Phil

    • Like 3
  17. 4 hours ago, OldButNotDead said:

    Makes sense Doc, thanks!  I'd forgotten that the engagement screw exists.

    When I got the bike back from Cadre, my initial feeling was that the clutch engagement zone had somehow shrunk, and less lever travel was needed to go from a fully disengaged to a fully engaged clutch. I was having a tough time modulating the slip-zone. That improved when I re-adjusted the CRC roll-a-click lever to better fit my hand, but more investigating will be needed. 

    In principle, I don't think either the lever position or the engagement screw should affect the "width" of the clutch engagement zone, so long as they are set to operate outside the limits of the hydraulic system.

     

    The probable reason for this is because now the clutch is correctly bled and this is what a normal V11 clutch feels like. Air in the system with make the action spongy and increase the clutch engagement/disengagement zone.

     

    Phil

    • Like 1
  18. On 6/13/2023 at 9:17 AM, Pressureangle said:

    There are a thousand petcocks that screw onto the tank just fine, but none have the 12mm outlet for the large hose to the fuel pump, and very few have a certainty of delivering enough fuel. Not only must it feed the engine as with carbs, but it must keep the pump well fed including what bypasses the regulator back into the tank. Pingel is the only maker I'm familiar with to rest assured the flow is adequate. 

    None of this concern is really an issue. If you disassemble the original electric tap you will find a 12mm outlet hose size fed by 6mm internal passages in the tap itself. The 12mm outlet dia of the tap is only there to match the inlet dia for the external pump they chose so the hose is the same size both ends and doesn't need to be a "special"  with different end dia's. The original external pump is way oversize for the application anyway as later in tank pumps demonstrate. As we all know the theory demands in any pump application the inlet be of greater flow than the outlet but nobody told Guzzi this so the original electric tap set up is for all practical purposes a 6mm inlet with a 12mm delivery. It works just fine that way. Once again the practice and the theory don't align and in those circumstances I'm happy to go with the proven practice. Using a std size tap outlet would be fine with regards to fuel feed but you then need a hose reducer between the pump inlet and tap outlet which is an easy thing to machine up BUT the length of the hose between the tap outlet and the pump inlet is so short you can't afford to have any section at all of that hose with a length of even a little rigidity due to an inline reducer/step up fitting. Having an additional length of smaller diameter hose looped to accommodate a step up isn't practical in that area either. Not enough real estate. 

     

    Phil

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  19. 23 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:

    That clamp (#21) shouldn't be there, probably a remnant of earlier models... If you look at the drawing posted earlier, it's not there.

    Problem with that theory is the 99-2000 parts manual shows no clamp and the 02-2007 I have shown has a clamp that's never been fitted to any model as far as I can see. So it's not an outdated carry over from a previous manual.

    The original image posted may be an even later iteration or amendment to a mistake in the manual. This is why in the aviation world the parts manual was never allowed to be a legal reference for the assembly of aircraft components, it was a part number sourcing reference only. Never to be used to demonstrate assembly order. 

     

    Phil

    • Like 1
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