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emry

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Everything posted by emry

  1. A Sport 1100, Centaro, and Daytona crossover will not fit a V11 or vise versa. With the Sport 1100 crossover mounting in the same support location as the V11 the headers are about 5in. (125mm) short. I just made this mistake on Ebay due to a bad listing and am trying to resolve it.
  2. JB Quik... for those surprise oil leaks..
  3. Pretty sure that is it. I didn't see anything in my shed. So for $6 give it a go. I used carb cleaner to removed "bubbled" paint then sprayed away. Haven't touched in in a decade.
  4. I know this was done here before, maybe it got lost with one of the reboots. I didn't like the HD paint, the texture was finer than the OEM Guzzi stuff. Best match I found was actually one of the Rustoleum Textured. Cheap, matched fantastic, easy to find in the US, and has actually lasted a long time. I honestly couldn't tell you where I painted and where I didn't when looking at the bike. I have to see if I still have an old can around for the specific one I used.
  5. AMP Superseal 1.0. Make sure you get the correct keying, there are 3 different ones if I recall. Corsa-Technic
  6. Have fun everyone. Good thing we are not working on improving fire, we all would have food poisoning. Enjoy!
  7. emry

    emry

  8. 1. Put a large hose clamp on the filter. 2. Use a turn signal in place of the fuse to troubleshoot. This article is old, but so is electricity. https://www.yamaha-motor-university.com/ymu/motorsports/advertising/YMU%20Service%20Limit/docs/States%20of%20a%20Wire%20December%202013.pdf Plenty of help for wiring problem here.
  9. Normally bicycles don't exceed the speeds needed for the "counter-steer" dynamic to be in affect. This is based on chassis geometry, contact patch, traction, and speed. Let us not bring tricycle or two-wheel leading dynamics into this. CoG becomes a vastly more important component with those things.
  10. I bought a MyECU because of this, the other tools were not as prevalent back then. Stalling at stop lights made the original ECU useless during commuting.
  11. This is up in my office, but there is 3 more images and the titles are slightly different. Give me a day or two and I'll post it. It brings me back to the real world really quick when things go awol.
  12. FAKE NEWS!!!! Sorry. Just voicing an ignorant view point. In reality the video does illustrate a simple principle but also shows some other serious rider flaws. Like rolling off throttle and grabbing a big handful of front brake. If you really want to increase your skill as a rider, sign up for a few trackdays or go racing. You will quickly learn what your motorcycle is really capable of. You can train your self to trust your tires (with in their limits of course), countersteer, and give it MORE throttle (stabilizes the chassis and transfer load to the rear tire). Of course all of
  13. If i read the original post out loud it is all about the horn to me. Cause, effect, where to start looking for a problem.
  14. I get stuck at the third and fourth sentence I hope everyone here has a excellent new year!
  15. Roy, it has nothing to do with the battery or the charging system, let alone the changes in resistance to the starting circuit during pull-up. A fused circuit will only move so much current, based on the total circuit resistance, not what the power supply can provide. The problem occurs when the horn button is pressed, how about we focus on that problem and the voltage drops that happen therein. Your wiring diagrams here are awesome and your advice on this site is always outstanding. I wasn't really challenging your aptitude nor trying to dive into discourse about ohms law. I didn't take
  16. What the battery can put out is illrelevent, the total circuit resistance is the important consideration. If the fuse has 0.3Ω, the relay 0.8Ω, the button 0.4Ω and the horn 0.1Ω, what happens in that fused circuit.
  17. Sounds like a horn driver that is stuck. When it gets stick it causes a direct short ( or near that) and pulls the voltage on the circuit low.
  18. I little side project I was involved in. It has been neglected unfortunately. The main page has a few other articles if you are curious. https://www.yamaha-motor-university.com/ymu/motorsports/advertising/YMU%20Service%20Limit/index.html
  19. Here is three relevant articles. https://www.yamaha-motor-university.com/ymu/motorsports/advertising/YMU%20Service%20Limit/docs/Three%20Ignition%20System%20Types%20September%202012.pdf https://www.yamaha-motor-university.com/ymu/motorsports/advertising/YMU%20Service%20Limit/docs/Troubleshooting%20TCI%20Ignition%20Systems%20October%202012.pdf https://www.yamaha-motor-university.com/ymu/motorsports/advertising/YMU%20Service%20Limit/docs/Ignition%20Coils%20July%202013.pdf
  20. Transistor Controlled Ignition. Works just like points but is controlled electronically instead of mechanically.
  21. Coils do come in two distinct varieties when it come to the primary resistance and I agree the problem is with too much current through the primary side. TCI (Points fall into this) or CDI. TCI coils have a few Ohms of resistance and induce voltage into the secondary through a collapsing field, this is why dwell is important. CDI coils have very little resistance, normally a few tenths of an ohm, and work off a rising field to induce voltage in the secondary. Using a CDI type coil on a TCI bike will allow it to run, until either the coil or the ECU cook due to the extra current. Using a T
  22. Correct, the Ducati and most full wave units are series. Their downside is exactly what you state. They cut half the driven current and half the charging at that point. They work good from a cost stand point but suffer in the charging stand point. In regards to three phase units, the output is limited by the regulator, not the diodes, the diodes only drop a half volt so the wattage they have to dissipate is minimal. The majority of the heat is generated in the scr or mosfet during regulation. Every unit I have seen is rated at 14v, which is common charging for lead acid batteries. The sili
  23. The 35 amp is the max rating of the regulators output, normally at 14v. This doesn't change if something on the rectification side changes, like running off of two legs. Of course the output will. Some modern race bikes will actually overheat the regulator til it shuts down and then the battery goes flat, just not enough system draw at 14,000 rpm and the stator is totally kicking ass at that point. So much current gets shunted the reg/rec casing can't disperse the heat. Simple fix is to remove a single stator leg which drops the stator output by 1/3 and then the rec/reg can handle the heat.
  24. I have ridden my Scura at a track day. I have both an 2003 R6 (SBK) and 2006 R1 (SBK), race only. To be honest, the Scura wasn't even fun. While it didn't try and kill me like the R1 always does the amount of effort and work that it took really took the pleasure out riding on the track. But some people prefer the bike being the challenge and not the track, so...
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