emry

Reinhold- I was refering to valve clearence specs mentioned in another forum. Here is a quote from the Raceco site. "Tappet clearances for the Guzzi big twins should be set to 0.20mm for the inlet and 0.25mm for the exhaust. This also applies to the "modern" Guzzis such as the Sport 1100, Cali 1100i and V11. The factory settings for these bikes are 0.10mm and 0.15mm respectively, but this is to try and reduce engine noise to meet US emissions regulations. With tappets set this tight the engines have trouble ticking over and running cleanly at low revs." I wasn't trying to imply that Guzzi had two different values.

GT750... The "Water Buffalo" Ick. Used to work at a Suzuki dealership. But the RG500 now, I had one with a set of Bassinni pipes. Very snappy. Wish I hadn't hung it on a tree in the California Redwoods.... Aw well live and learn... and heal...

Rear brake squall, poor idle/stalling - wide valve clearences solved, pinging - higher fuel pressure helped, blew out gasket on timing cover - dealer fixed in one week, had to have gasket air-mailed: excellent service, tank suck - removed tip over, tach fogging - haven't taken apart yet, speedo gear separted - pushed it back together 2000 miles ago hasn't repeated yet but I check it everytime I ride. Still the most wonderful bike I have ever had. Character. Nothing but character.

I editted my previous post; when setting oil level the fork should be compressed with the spring in place. Sorry, it must of been late. Why didn't anyone slap me???

Just recently I tried the Guzzi "tight valve" clearenece and the Raceco "loose" back to back over about three days. With the tight, it stumbled and stalled occasionally at low rpm's. When I changed to the loose the stumble and stalling did not happen once. Even after some very fast rides to a complete stop. But the bike still pings though, I even have cracked a spark plug insulator!!! (The small ceramic that covers the electrode inside the engine. Luckly it was just cracked and not chipped. Ceramic plays havic with valve seats, and piston tops, and ring lands, and .....) This was with the bike completely stock, a slight fuel pressure increase helped my pinging, but only helped. It did not change the stall/stumble though. The bike is stock, still..... Other than a fuel pressure increase that I meantioned elsewhere.

Anyone have any comments about the raceco "big bore" crossover for the V11? I was wondering if it had similair effects as the Stucci... oh, you now what I mean...

My 02 Scura is already beginning to develop cracks after 3000 miles. My bike is also parked in the garage. I would agree that the rubber is of a very poor quality.

Thanks.. I must be in a constant daze to not have looked there....

Speaking as a mechanic I have not seen a set that does not need to be removed. Normally the level is set with the fork compressed and the spring in place, this can be very ackward with the fork on the bike. Before I do mine does anyone know the volume or level that is needed? The Ohlin manuel doesn't state, merely gives the type... Ohlin 1309 Front and Ohlins 105/1 Rear.

I meant to say that damage to the regulator may result. Oops now I forgot to register too. I feel so dirty....

My bike did the same as Rich's, but after a dealer service, with the TwinMax, the problem would still occansional happen. Never happened often enough to find. Hasn't done it the past 2000 miles though. The only mod I have made was to increase the fuel pressure to help the "pinging."

My MG dealer is a Harley dealer and that is exactly what he told me. At least he gave me a can. Works OK.

Iam getting a very solid 35 mpg doing fairly aggressive driving at highway speeds, two up. (The roads in middle georgia stink, very long with long swepping turns.) When I first got the bike it was getting about 28 mpg, but it slowly improved.

I would agree Rich. If you have ever ridden a flat slide carbed bike not only can you get them to ping but you also can get them to stall with over zealous throttle application. (But that is due to the decreased air speed and the resulting lack of fuel atomization in the venturi.) But if you compare fuel injected twin to fuel injected twin, My TL1000 never had any problem. Idle to WOT and it always had immediate response, without any trace of detonation. But the TL used a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor to determine engine load. This enabled it to enrichen the fuel curve or retard ignitoin timing during rapid throttle transitions which causes a lean condition, accelerator pumps on the flat slide carbs tried to do the same. (minus the igniton retard of course.) The V11's have only a BARO sensor to adjust for altitude unfortunately. Much as you said a more careful application of throttle can "cure" the problem or at least not cause the condition to arise. But in such a low performance application I would believe that some careful tuning (PCIII, fuel and igntion mapping) should sort out the problem. But here is another thought that is often overlooked, the squish clearence. Does anyone know what the V11's 2002 and older are using? I noticed that they upped the compression on the 2003, perhaps this is a attempt to promote better turbulence in the chamber. Here is a decent page explaining the mechanics of "squish" and detonation. The mystery of detonation

I also replaced my spring with a "lighter" one. I didn't have to add anything to the throttle kicker though. (The curved part that opens the throttle plates.) The small roller that is touched by the kicker is adjustable on my Scura. It has a small flathead screw that holds it in place.

Well I just greassed my front u-joint without taking any bolts off of my Scura. I got one of those 180 swivel tips like CoreyL suggested from ACE. 12.95 but oooh well. the swivel is attached to about a 5 inch rigid tube. I got a female-female air line fitting, can't remember what size, but it fit on the end of the rigid tube which I attached to the end of a standard whip hose. Rotate the drive shaft till you can feel the zerk facing up with your finger (feeling from the engine side and down around the u-joint cover) and inset the grease tip through the right side of the swingarm above the exhaust, through the swingarm cut-out for the drive shaft. Guide the grease tip to the zerk and press. Voila! I didn't even have the bike up on a stand. CoreyL was right about the angle of the tip somewhere around 130 degrees.

I would assume so, but I have not checked. My pads are the same as the ones on the Leman's though.

I took off just the rubber snorkels. This increased the sound a little. My wife noticed at least.

After about 800 miles my front cover began leaking badly. I am refering to the cover that is on the front of the engine that actually bolts to the engine block, not the small alternator cover. On the right hand side just below were the frame/engine bolt is, a small piece of gasket actually disappeared causing almost an oil spray when the bike was running. The dealer was happy to replace the gasket and explained that it was due to the engine paint wearing out under the bolt heads (cover bolts that is), thus causing the bolt to loose just enough tension to allow a leak. They also placed lock washers on all of the front cover bolts to keep this from happening in the future. Well 2800 miles today and I noticed a small oil film in the same area. Any one else had a similar problem. I would hate to have to go through a case relpacement because of a poor gasket surface.

I contacted Corbin. They were uninterested. The seem to only want to produce the "gunfighter." Thanks though.

My Scura also pings, sometimes loudly. I raised the fuel pressure by 10 psi and the pings are almost completely gone. (It was running very lean at 3500+ and 3/4 to WOT throttle settings) The increase in fuel pressure has not even reduced my fuel mileage noticably, suprisingly. I would prefer to have gotten a PC III but this will have to do for now. The bike is bone stock.

I am looking for a seat that has a fold up pillion. I saw one once on a VFR, but I do not remember who made it. With the "sissy bar" laying down it looked like a solo seat with a hard cowl, like the Scura's seat with its cover. When you pressed the locking pin the cowl would rotate back exposing a pass. seat with a padded "sissy bar." Very cool. I am looking for either the company that orginally made a seat like this or someone who would be willing to tackle it.

I drilled a small hole on the tapered end of the retaining pin so that a small R-clip could be used. Between that and the tension of the internal locking clip the pin it will not go anywhere. Thanks for your concern.

I found that removing the pad tension spring, (the small spring with two pins attached that rides under the retaining pin,) solved almost all of the noise. The springs pins are tapered on my scura and were causing the pads to pinch the rotor at the base of the pad.