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Another observation, the vacuum port, the small fitting at the bottom facing forward, is bent upwards. Perhaps a full tank of gas and a not so gentle resting position? While I would check the other suggestions first, and the main sealing o-rings are farther up in the assembly, it could be a possibility that the bending has impaired the sealing or the internal sealing of the regulator?

This is common on many types of clutch drive systems. The wear actually comes from shifting, that why it shows as sweeping type marks on the flywheel (other makes it shows as marks on the clutch basket). Difference between engaged and a disengaged clutch. Torque is being generated by the crankshaft, and multiplied through the primary gear (clutch assm and input gear on a guzzi) and then through the trans and rear drive. When the clutch is initially pulled this torque is still being transmitted until the plate slip enough to allow a shift. Once the shift has happened and the clutch is once again in the process of being released the same effect happens but in the opposite direction, the engine is powering the clutch and so on, as the driven plates slide down the grooves in the flywheel.

Spotcheck is a chemical dye process. Cleaner, dye, developer. Not as good a x-ray testing, but it is field portable, and affordable. Any cracks that have propagated to surface show up quite well. You would need to pull the flywheel off, the cracking seems to always have started at the hub where it mounts to the crank. I was getting rid of the olive oil gasket sealer that was used on my transmission so while I had it off I decided to go ahead and check, last time I did was at about 5k miles.

Magnaflux spotcheck.

You are too kind docc. This really isn't that impressive, but it worked. The plate bolts on to two small tabs on the rear subframe, you can see the bolts just above the inside of the turnsignals. The taillight is riveted to the plate. The mounts for the turnsignals is the material from behind the taillight bent inward toward the rear tire. The license plate bolts on just below the rear taillight. To cover the large hold that is left from removing the old piece I used a small sheet of black plastic and some 3M double side foam tape. Sorry I don't have any dimensions, but a little bit of cardboard mock will get all the dimensions right before you commit to metal. I just used some mild sheet steel, 12 gauge most likely.

Made one. I'll take a picture in a day or two. Simple, cheap, and spray painted black. Kept the stock tail and indicators.

The clutch in the Scura used a RAM friction and pressure plate, but a Guzzi produced flywheel. The RAM version was not known for failing, the Guzzi version, well not so much. Although the exact cause, improper factory torque, not enough load bearing surface, wrong alloy, etc... was never agreed upon. Apparently there were slight differences between the two versions, although I personally have never seen the RAM version. There was thread here eons ago it about when people started to switching to a twin plate.

My Scura had a high idle when hot, although it was slightly intermittent. The bushings for the throttle shafts in the throttle bodies were oval. Sometimes the plates would closes all the way, sometimes not. I could move the throttle shaft (not rotating it) with the bike idling and get the idle to change. While I do have the bike apart currently, I have not yet tackled that issue. Not to thread jack, but on another note my original aluminum flywheel is still crack free after 12k miles.

I love experiments. Alpha-N is a compromise. You want acceleration - OK, you want fuel economy - OK, sorry "non sia." Best you can do is tune for different ranges, run the best gas you will need (normally acceleration, high octane) and tune the ECU as required, not supplied.

Fins up. Yes to the expanded tank. I had to relocate the rear mount on mine because of it.

If you run a few tanks of E10 through it, the ethanol will actually do a really good job of cleaning out the injectors, and everything else it touches.

The main problem with velocity squared dampening (holes) is that they do a poor job of being able to react to slow speed movement (round bumps, often not enough damping) while not being harsh during high speed movements (square bumps, when it can hydraulically lock). The fact that this system is also positionally sensitive (damping changes based on fork compression) make matters even worse. Think about going over a series of bumps spaced closely, the first no damping, the next more, the next tons... (Cartridge bleeds are used on very long travel suspensions though, baja cars, monster trucks, etc.) In most motorcycles a fairly linear damping curve is desirable, shims do a good job of this and the holes in the valve can be sized to act only during the fastest of movement when velocity damping can be useful to prevent bottoming.

If you are changing the front that often are you changing the rear also? It goes over the same bumps and gets worked even harder. Personally I think you are going for overkill. But it definitely wont hurt if you have time and the oil.

You will still leave about 50mm worth of fluid in the fork (that is a guess not a measurement), the compression rod stops short of the rebound assembly. I have just pulled the cartridge bolt on forks that use it as previously mentioned if you really want to change the fluid. Normally if I am putting new fluid in it gets new seals also so it is a fork off job anyways. Docc, that photo with the pump is too funny!!! No insult meant of course.

My bike started the same heat related issues at about 11,000 miles. around 2008, it is a 02. Ran great in the morning, stuck in traffic on the way home when it was warm out, stall, cough and spit. MyECU was the only fix I found. While I am always opposed to "ECU failure" in my case I am fairly sure something happened there. I have since tried my OEM ECU again and it goes right back to the odd running when warm. Put the MyECU back on and it runs like a champ.

Most likely a cheap adjustment for different throttle body cams. The outer hole will only increase the throttle pull ratio during initial throttle opening. The profile of the throttle cam and throttle body cam determine the opening ratio after that. Larger throttle cam with a small TB cam equal a quicker turn ratio, the opposite would also apply. Normally a progressive opening is desirable, low ratio at initial and partial opening, quick after half throttle. Many throttle body cams often have a snail shape (stamped metal, easy), while the throttle tubes are circular (cheap and keeps the throttle cable secure, less likely hood of it binding out of its track).

I bought a 200psi 2gallon compressor (Dewalt) here in the US for $300US. While the capcaity is small the higher pressure lets me do what I need for a longer time before the compressor kicks back on. I also have a a 50 gallon that can reach 120psi. It can be great until the pressure drops, then it takes FOREVER to build back up. The high pressure small tank is convient, quick, and provides enough air for most of my needs. (Paint work I still like the large tank) Small pancake compressors (oiless are the worst, and cheapest) are good for occasional air guns (like a blast or two) and tire fills. Everything else just fills a tire, or sits in the wifes trunk (boot).

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2009.pdf READ Yuasa knows something. 12.8 is fully charged (lead acid). Anything over that charges the battery. (assuming its plates are not sulfated) Higher equals faster charging (more ampere, but possible battery overheating) Most regulators set voltage ~2 volts above current battery voltage. A classic indicator of a bad battery is low charging voltage and high charging amps. What is needed in battery capacity is based on battery condition, tempurature, and engine condition. In that order. Percents are based on intial battery capacity and current condition. Engineers have formulas for that. Roy is on the right track. A good well servied battery is still the key to easy starting. Could you give an estimation what percentage of total battery capacity this loss would mean? I mean, if starting the bike might need 1,5 Ah, how much of that would be regained after 20 minutes of average commuting at 4000 rpm under standard winter conditions? Hubert What I'm trying to get across is without the headlight current passing through the original wiring the regulator doesn't get the benefit of the Voltage drop. Two bikes that I know drop ~0.6 Volts The regulator setting I see is 13.8 With normal wiring 13.8 + 0.6 = 14.4 (thats what the battery charges too) With headlight relays it will only charge to 13.8 a loss of 0.6 Volts If you figure 12V is flat and 14.4 fully charged 13.8 is 1.8/2.4 or 75% I may not have my facts straight but it's 25% lower than normal. This would be a lot more significant if the battery normally only charges to 50%, it would end up 25% charged. You will never regain the 25% because the regulator stops charging once it sees the battery at 13.8 (It thinks the battery is 14.4) I hope this is clearer than mud

I am able to do it on the sidestand. I use the adjustable grease gun fitting, get the zerk lined up and a few pumps it is done. This was a well covered topic back in 03 / 04?? Pictures etc.Or does my memory fail me.. again... Maybe the topic is lost to the void of the internet? Is my Scura's driveshaft that unique? I am beginning to believe the my Guzzi is really more "one off" than most other limited production bikes. Hmmm.

Best laugh I've had all day!

LOL. Heaven forbid you "expose" what they are really doing. But it tricks the ECU into thinking O2 sensor still reads correctly also!!!. A miricle in cheap plastic, the OEM's have been trying to surpress that secret for years. If you want to trick the airtemp sensor, move it, encase it in ice, add a resistor, follow (unamed) advise, or just hit it with a hammer. You money will be much better spent on a real method of adjusting the fuel mixture.

Snap your fingers three times, strike a Michael Jackson pose (doesn't matter which one), then fart. Works for me everytime. You may have better luck with the above responses.

Ads on ebay are not indicative of quality or performance. Maybe desperation? I have nothing of any use to add here. Although I have been tempted by the price.

300 Scura's in the first batch and another 300 in the "that was a good idea!!" second batch (Reported somewhere...). Of the first batch only ~35 remained in the US, 50 or so imported orginally. (According to an ex-MG employee info, most were re-exported due to lack of sales) I have 10k on mine, crack tested twice; I added washers very early on maybe 1k miles. From general observations the occurance seems to be much more "common" place than generally known. I have never found a reliable number on the second batch and where they went. Heck they most likely had different parts in them, knowing Guzzi's small batch purchasing perchant. If Guzzi had sold 10,000 Scura's it would have been a recall. In the US NTSHA goes after the big fish. Since they don't care, neither does the OEM. At least I got some riding gear for the crappy paint on the cases. Not that was much consolidation, I just didn't trust my local MG tech's to replace my cases; heck they couldn't fix a front cover leak.

HA! Sorry not realy laughing at you, but vendor issues have been problematic for several OEM's. For example Yamaha's XV1900 engines had similar failures early on, improper heat treatment of the lifter base was the cause (vender). Made a real mess out of the cam's too. Normally customers would only bring them in once the pushrod would fall out of place and it would turn into a single! Hopefully the "new" inventory has better quality control. Hope your repairs provide you with ALOT more miles then before.