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About abouc

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  • My bikes
    2002 Le Mans
  • Location
    Michigan - along the Grand River

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  • Interests
    Camping, fishing, hiking and most other outdoorsy shit. Generally being as far away from the city as possible when not working. Oh, and riding!
  1. Have you seen the Koso gauges? http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/new/shop/motorcycle_gauges/rx-2n-speedometer-gp-style-0-10000-rpm-4/ $100 less, easier to read and includes the mounting bracket. I may be going this way in the Spring because my speedomoeter has crapped out AGAIN.
  2. I had a similar problem with the stock Brembo rotors. Freeing the bobbins provided some temporary relief, but was not a complete solution. Switching to EBC rotors completely cured the problem. It was NOT cheap, but was well worth the investment.
  3. I replaced the angle drive a few weeks ago with a brand new OEM part. Cable was well lubricated and rerouted to avoid as many bends as possible. It worked beautifully for 1 week, then the cap blew off the angle drive going 80mph (or so). Back to no speedo again.
  4. I figured out the following info within the first 3 months of owning my bike because research showed it was only a matter of time before the speedo crapped out - and it did. At 3000rpm (in any gear except 1st) is going the same mph as the gear x10. e.g. 3,000 rpm in 3rd is 30mph, 3,000rpm in 4th is 40mph, 3,000rpm in 5th gear is 50. 3,000 in 6th gear does NOT make for a happy V11. In 5th gear 5,000rpm is 80mph. 6th gear at 5,000rpm is approximately 90mph. I would estimate that 6,000 is in the triple digits . Since mid-June I've done about 5,000 miles of trouble free riding on those figures. However, I've finally purchased a replacement speedo cable/drive because the bike feels REALLY good around (and above) 6,000. All vibes go away and it just rides beautifully. Without the speedo telling me how fast I'm going it's way too easy to justify that good feeling instead of slowing back down.
  5. I finally got around to looking into this and taking the assembly apart. There was a lot of water in there. Removed all the parts and cleaned/dried them. While everything was apart I tried the horn again and it worked! Reassembled and added a very light amount of dielectric grease to all the places where water would create problems and reassembled. 20 minute fix. Next time it will be a 10 minute fix because I will know how each piece works.
  6. Is there a good replacement for the bevel drive (transmission end)? Mine seized up in June, so now the odometer is a few thousand miles off. Can't seem to locate that part anywhere.
  7. I learned this the hard way. The needle bearing had gotten so dry that it rusted and nearly seized up, burning up the inner race in the process. It cost me around $80 in parts and a few weeks of waiting. All because it wasn't greased with each tire change.
  8. I was riding in the rain the other day and a deer walked out into the road ahead of me. Naturally, I slowed and tried to beep the horn. But the horn didn't work. It worked fine the previous day, and every other time I've used it. So far, I've checked all my fuses and the connections at the horn. High beams, turn signals, tach etc. all work fine. Is there something that could cause this problem other than a faulty switch in the controls?
  9. Thanks Pete. I'm off to find some tools.
  10. Lots of views, but no replies. Maybe this is a unique problem.
  11. I need to replace the rusted old needle bearings on the right side of the rear drive. Problem is that I can't get the old ones out. They are virtually locked in place. Some liberal pounding on the adjacent washer with the aid of a steel drift from the inside has only moved things enough to make the spacer loose. I'm very worried about what all this impact might do to the drive housing. It doesn't seem like it should be so hard. The wheel bearings came out cleanly with less than 10 blows each. Is it possible that the washer I'm placing the drift against doesn't exit the right side, but actually gets inserted from the inside? How have others removed these bearings?
  12. It doesn't look like that Givi system would be compatible with older V11s that have the rubber chin pad on the tank.
  13. There are a few parts that would be worth buying, but other than that it seems pretty far gone. I've heard that even after fairly low speed crashes, spine frame Guzzis don't recover well.
  14. Jaap just saved me a bunch of $$, which is nice since I've just bought new rotors and tires. When the used OEM unit wears out, I'll definitely be looking into the Rossopuro one - in RED.
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