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68C

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Posts posted by 68C

  1. So which bikes have the twin cable, could I retrofit it it to an 03 RC?  You may remember one of my first posts was about the throttle linkrod adjuster knob getting caught on the rear shock reservoir pipe connector, this was at full throttle!  Surprising how quick it accelerated, luckily on a straight road, until I remembered the kill switch.  I am sure I could have made it roll off with a twin cable setup.

    • Like 1
  2. With 15 posts you are no longer a NOOB.

    My 03 LeMans throttle cable can only be adjusted at the twistgrip end.  Have you looked above the LH throttle body to see if you have another adjuster there?

    On other bikes I like to set the twistgip end adjustment halfway then correct at the other end.  That way I know I can twiddle with the twist grip end if I get bored on a long run.

     

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  3. Google translates that as " They know what the clutch dimensions are for Guzzi V11 they would help me".

     

    Hello V11scura02sport

    From google translater  "which dimension do you need?"

    "Que dimension necesitas?"

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    • Thanks 1
  4. Never come across those in aircraft, although I mainly worked on obsolete stuff. As one of the younger mechs said to me, "Your so old you can remember when aircraft were made from metal".

    Conventional CBs do help you find an intermittent fault as it may reset for a while, a hard fault won't.  Could an auto reset mask an intermittent fault?

  5. The link shows these are auto-reset types.  I understand the aviation pop-up circuit breakers which you push to reset but do not see how auto-reset works. Does it sit there clicking on and off with a hard fault like a short to earth?

  6. You are only doing a five second weld at the most so should not warp the head. 

    Disconnect any electronic items, voltage regulator, battery, possibly the tacho and any Power Commander etc.  May be worth disconnecting any LED lights, you just need to unplug them.

    The best method would be with a TIG welder, next MIG and lastly an Arc welder.  You could even use Oxy Acetylene although that would require heating for a little longer.

    I don't have a TIG so use a MIG or an Arc.   Weld through the centre of the nut to avoid any damage to the casting.  

    If you are still trying to remove the easy-out remember to turn it clockwise to remove it.

    Stuff some wet rag down the oil drain channels.

    Good luck.

  7. Again, weld a nut to the sheared off easy-out and remove it. I cannot see which type you are using, I do not like the left hand thread tapered type, as you screw them in they squeeze the nut/bolt out making it even tighter in the casting. Go too far and you will crack the casting. There are parallel easy outs that work well with the correct drill but once they slip you have to go up a size.

    I feel attempting to drill, grind and then picking out the remaining thread should be you last idea as you will find it very difficult to drill central and square. You could well end up using a thread insert but that opens up difficulties with making it oil tight as you may encroach on the o'ring.

    Of course removing the head allows you to get to a machine shop for a professional repair, at a cost.

    Please try the welding a steel nut on first, it really does work and is cheap.

     

    • Like 2
  8. The pistons MUST slide freely. When you apply the brake the square section seals distort at first as the piston moves, allowing the  pads to firmly grip the disc. When you release the brake it is the distorted seal that pulls the piston back to release the pressure on the pads and disc. As the pads slowly wear the seal will distort and then allow the piston to slide through autimatically taking up the clearance. If the piston is not free to slide the distorted seal is unable to pull the piston back and the brake will bind. The Norton Racing team told me to never use silicon brake fluid as it is too slippery, allowing the piston to slide through freely rather than distorting the seal meaning there is no force pulling the piston back. I believe it was Dowty who discovered how the square section seal worked, earlier attempts with round seal led to binding brakes and rapid pad wear.

    • Like 1
  9. Any chance of getting the old forum back?  I am struggling with this version.  It is so different I no longer feel at home.

    Being British I wonder if we should have a referendum to decide which version is best.  Then we can ignore the result and argue over unrelated things.  Sorry, that was a stupid idea, it would never happen in real life.

    • Haha 2
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