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Everything posted by 68C

  1. My car gives better mileage than my V11. Of course my car was designed by computer to have little wind resistance, where of course I am not so blessed.
  2. If in doubt, chuck the fluid out.
  3. Stunning! I kept trying to work out how the camera worked, seemed gyro stabalised but then rotated to look straight through where I thought the mount was. Not even obvious in the shadow. That man must have the reactions of a mongoose.
  4. 68C


    Thanks Kiwi Roy, I will pop doen and grab a handfull. Of course now nothing will ever fail!
  5. 68C


    I see my local shop has fuses with an LED that glows if the fuse fails. Anyone tried these? I suppose the thing the fuse is protecting has to still sink a current to light the LED.
  6. Are you sure you mean a four valve engine? My Rosso Corsa has that, perhaps you really mean an eight valve engine. Four valves per cylinder x two cylinders. Edit: Hi GuzBun, just re-read my reply to you and realise it comes accross as rather rude. I was trying to make sure your advert would recieve the attention it requires, suggest either call it an eight valve motor or four valve head.
  7. So how does this dynamic thing work? Seems to me you need a closed loop system for that with an O2 sensor. Like the WM15RC or the MyECU.
  8. You are right, mine is a Combat engine. There are two problems with that engine. To increase the compression they just skimmed the cylinder head but they did not alter the pushrod lengths so the geometry changed increasing side load on the valve stem, cured by shortening the rods. The main bearing problem came about due to fitting roller bearings on both sides of the crank rather than the earlier roller and ball bearing set up. At max revs the crank flexes and so the edges of the rollers dig in and fail. The Superblend bearings are slightly barrel shaped so no sharp edge. Any other manufacturer would have tried to stop the crank flexing! Of course this was the 1970's when British manufacturers sold you what they could make cheap rather than what you wanted. Think of the number of Brit built 'US spec' bikes that we lusted after but could not buy in the UK.
  9. Does anyone know anything about Aspen Alkylate fuel? I was in my local garden machinery shop when the guy tried to sell me the 'latest long life fuel'. He reckons it is the answer to ethanol fuel system damage and does not go off like unleaded fuel, tells me he sells it for garden machinery as it can be left in over winter with no damage and no starting problems. He also sells it to classic car and bike enthusiasts. Apart from the fact it costs £19.00 for 5 litres as opposed to £6.50 for 5 litres of unleaded in the UK, I wondered if it works. A scam does not usually cost more than the thing it is replacing so it caught my attention. He also said there are attempts to get the fuel duty lowered on it as it is less harmful. Can't see that happening. He tells me it is an American product although the leaflet he gave me has a UK website. At the price it is of no use for a regularly used machine but may useful for that bike you rarely ride. www.aspenfuel.co.uk
  10. I know I keep on about this but....... Remember carbon fibre is not fibreglass or plastic. It conducts eletricity and so will cause galvanic corrosion if water gets between it and metal, in particular aluminium alloy. Not a problem provided you make sure there is no bare alloy to carbon fibre contact. When I picked up my Rosso Corsa and gave it a good clean I found the lugs on the Ohlins forks were very pitted with corrosion. Cleaned up OK and now insulated with plenty of paint on the lugs and plastic washers. You just paid a lot of money for those lovely parts, make sure they will last.
  11. 68C

    Decent Tune-up

    Looked closer at your photo of the manometer. Perhaps it is not a true manometer. Instead it is a balance tube in which the pipe is one piece , coming from one cylinder manifold then down the wooden support and looping round then going back up the the other side to connect to the other manifold. This will work with most fluids as the difference in height is only the difference between the two cylinders. My dislike of this system is that if one of the pipes connecting the engine manifolds comes loose the fluid will be instantly ingested. The same may happen if the carbs/throttles are completely out of adjustment. Hopefully there will not be enough fluid in the pipe to cause a hydraulic lock and a bent con rod. An improvement to the 'balance pipe' device is to have water traps at the top of the tubes. These can be complicated float type shut off valves or a large chamber that can hold the total amount of fluid. An advantage of the chamber is that it damps out the fluid level oscillations.
  12. 68C

    Decent Tune-up

    Oil would be even lighter requiring taller tubes.
  13. 68C

    Decent Tune-up

    Looks like fun. I use a homemade mercury manometer, had the bottle of mercury since the days it was not considered too dangerous for the common man. Now I get readings of around 8 inches of mercury, what sort of readings do you get with your water manometer? As water has an SG of 1, and mercury 13.5 I suppose you must get around 108 inches of water. Or perhaps I have got my maths and physics wrong.
  14. This also starts you off on the search for a suitable fueling and ignition map. Have fun.
  15. Bit worried about you working with an open fuel system and live electrics!
  16. The trouble is you need so many types of clothing. The denim cut-off and original jeans, no gloves or helmet when running with your self styled hard dude mates. Worn Barbour jacket, old work trousers, open face helmet and rubber boots when riding off road, or green laning as we Brits call it. Full hi-tech leathers, carbon fibre helmet and kangaroo skin gloves for those thrashes with the fast jap bike set. Comfy waterproof jacket, plastic trousers, old full face helmet to go to work. Oversuit to cover your good clothes if going into town and need to look smart. For years I always rode in a wax cotton jacket, blue jeans and rigger boots. Finally managed to buy a leather Rocker jacket with plenty of zips and studs, and of course my wallet held by achain to my belt. Then I got richer and started buying modern kit that does not seem to last any time. How do I now about the list of kit, because I still have it all of it.
  17. One way to ensure smooth tickover is the Harley mod, they shut down the rear cylinder when idling. So simple. Problem: rear cylinder overheating at idle. Solution: turn it off! So only one cylinder running = smooth tickover. A bit of fiddling with GuzziDiag and its done. Myself I prefer not sitting around at idle and to ignore any unbalance. Could not find a tongue-in-cheek emoticon.
  18. Of course a new nyloc nut does not have a thread in the nylon part, it cuts itself one the first time the nut is used. In extremis one can make a quick pass over the nut with a blowlamp, to partially melt the nylon, allowing it to return to a semi new condition. This technique best left for lawnmowers and other folks bikes/P51 etc. P.S.I What is a 'bleacher'?
  19. You should have 1 1/2 threads showing.
  20. I still remember how scary it was when my throttle linkage caught on the front of the rear shock reservoir. A V11 will accelerate from 50 to 100 in a very short time, especially when your mind is racing through 'pull on the brake', not a good idea; 'pull in the clutch', will the rev limiter work? Finally my old brain settled on the kill switch, never used one before in anger. I was lucky to be on a straight road at the time or it may have been a choice of a tree or a barbed wire fence. No, don't have any clever devices attached to your brakes or throttle. I find just holding my gloved right hand tight against the twist grip body provides all the friction I need.
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