Lawrence

Thanks JRT, That's what I figured, but wanted to be sure he was suggesting that this procedure might actually clear the "bubble".

Hubert, Thanks for the tip. I do know the sound of the pump priming when the ignition key is turned on, but need to pay attention to it when it is in a vapor bubble. However, I don't follow, the pump cycling... sorry, a little dense over here... With the ignition key on, cycle the kill switch until the correct flushing sound is heard and this will clear a vapor lock bubble?

Had what can best be described based on symptoms as a vapor lock last weekend. Rode my 2000 V11 Sport about 20 miles on a warm afternoon, stopped 10 min for a cool drink and engine, after starting right up sputtered as if starved for fuel. After a tow home and about 2 hours of head scratching and forum searching, I got turned on to the vapor lock scenario. Went out to the garage, bike started right up! Rode it the next day for about another 20 miles with no problems. Today, with air temp around 85F, I went for about a 5 mile ride to a weekly evening bike gathering, parked bike for about an hour and as I left, same symptoms as last weekend, but made it about 1/4 mile before the stall. Let it sit for 30 min, tried again and stalled on me again. I am now leaving it over night to see what will happen in the morning. I just keep thinking that there may be something else. The fuel pump and fuel lines did not feel too warm when this was happening, although the cylinder was very hot. Could the bike be over-heating? How can I verify that I am getting oil pressure? And passage through the oil radiator?

Vapor lock, for certain. All the external fuel-pump models are susceptible to it. Symptomology is exactly as you described: nice, spirited ride on a warm day to get the motor hot, stop the bike for longer than a quick fuel stop & let the fuel lines get heat soaked, & the bike fails to start. Once everything cools off, it's back to normal, no signs of failure. Only thing that can be done is either: A] Swap the fuel tank & pump for the late model one (where the fuel pump is inside the tank to keep it cool & protected from the heat off the motor) - expen$ive! or B] try to insulate the fuel pump & attached lines as well as possible with appropriate materials (there's stuff out there in meat-space that you can use for this: check with homebuilt airplane supply catalogs like Aircraft Spruce or racing car parts places like Summit, JEGS, etc. for hi-temp insulation.) Best o' luck to you! Thanks Skeeve!!

I don't think I'm the only one that suffers from moto lust; but mine, like many of yours I am certain, has a very specific flavor! Check it out: Moto Lust: The Neurophysiological Truth

Hey Roy, Here's the link I was looking for: Vapor Lock

Here is one, but not the one I was looking for.... I'll post the other as soon as I find it again: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-233472.html

Thanks for the insulation tip! Lawrence

I just read the "Vapor lock" string... That was me!! EXACTLY!

Funny you should suggest this! I just went out in the garage to check for fuel pump priming, (it's been about an hour and a half since it stalled). The pump priming sound was normal, tried to start, and it started right up!! Is there anything I should do to try and check this out more, or simply chalk it up to vapor lock? I've had the bike since last September, it had 7500 miles, 1500 of those are mine miles and with no issues what so ever. Lawrence

Out riding my 2000 V11 Sport today, filled up with fuel and rode 20 miles on state highway, bike running great, stopped for a drink, got back on started off and bike died. Sputtered like it was struggling to get fuel, but would not start. A couple of more attempts got a bit of firing when choked, but then that stopped. Stymied! Any suggestions on where to start diagnosis? I'm thinking fuel pump...? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Lawrence

Are your pipes stock?

I didn't get a tool when I purchased my V11 Sport and I don't have easy access to a welder so I used a bolt and nuts with 27 mm heads in the configuration shown in the pics. Lock washer between the nuts prevents nut slippage (I hate when that happens!!)... Cost me $7.00 at Ace hardware. Works great!

Has anyone found a non-OEM source of crush washers for the V11 crankcase, final drive and gearbox?