Motormike

Payment sent, Scud. Thanks again.

Yes, I've spent more time on Wildguzzi than here in the past. Now that I'm retired and have more leisure time, that should change. Which begs the question: if a new run of springs is made, what would be the method of notification? Just have to check back here from time to time?

I'm way late to this party as well. (And my eyes are crossed from reading 41 pages!) I was unaware of the spring breakage problem, mine hasn't let go (yet). But I want a spare in any event, so if you have another run made, put me down for one (or two, if need be to get the run started.)

Man, am I getting behind (and old!). Can't believe I didn't come back here and mark SOLD on that "B" kit. I still get an occasional text asking about it.

Yes, but in a few places, the scratches have removed the paint well up onto the edge of the rim. Like I said, someone must have used hammers and chisels to change the tires. I thought the color might be just paint, as it looked too thin (and fragile) to be powder coat. I know a good paint man, when it's time to replace the tires, I'll see if he can work his magic on the rims.

Haven't posted here in forever, but I have a simple question I hope someone can answer with conviction: Are the rims on the various V11 models painted or powder-coated? I have a 2003 v11 Sport, and the rims have always looked as though a previous owner used cold chisels to change the tires. I'd like to get them re-done. Getting a match with paint would be much easier and cheaper than powder-coat or (heaven forbid !$$$$) replacing the wheels. Thanks.

I have a Moto Guzzi "B" lifter roller kit for sale. Part Number 1A002063 for 2009-10 model 8 valve motors. I'm only asking $400.00 plus shipping, which is more than 50% below retail! If you are familiar with the MG 8 valve engine, you know the OEM flat tappets fail prematurely, and it needs to be converted to roller lifters before the entire engine is damaged. If you know anyone that might have an early 8 valve Griso, Stelvio or Norge, point them in my direction. You'll be doing both of us a favor. I don't get on this site much, so call or text 770-331-7868 if interested.

Well, I FINALLY got that sucker! Ordered a 12 inch extension pipe from McMaster-Carr and bent the tip like Rossi46 did. Used heat, but was still afraid the tube would crack, but it didn't. Then I had to file and grind down the bottom half of the coupler for it to slip over the nipple, but I finally got it. All you need in lieu of a full machine shop is a gas torch and a bench grinder. Or, like me, you could put blisters on your hands using a metal file for an hour. Anyway, it's done and back together. I'd post pics, but I'm on my third celebratory beer, so they'd all be out of focus!

Well, I'm just about at strike three. Removed the rear wheel, still couldn't reach the zerk. Took off the gearbox and still couldn't get anything onto that zerk. I don't know where you guys are finding grease guns with rigid metal lines. Every Ace Hardware and Auto Zone, etc. I've been to only has the flex line ones. Tried a needle, got lots of grease around the uni, but none in it. Tried the Ace Hardware swivel fitting with the same abysmal results. Tomorrow I pull the fucking swing arm off. Maybe then I can grease the front, uni-joint. (but I'm not counting on it.)

Like I said, the real problem is figuring out a way to remove the little dust cap. Once I take the thing apart and remove the cap, I'll just leave it off for better access next time.

That front frigging zerk is MISSION IMPOSSIBLE! Not only can I not get a grease gun tip anywhere near it, I can't even figure out a way to remove the little red dust cap. My longest needle nose pliers won't even begin to reach into that black hole. I'll just have to take the whole frigging rear wheel and swingarm off the bike, all for a couple of shots of grease. I can't believe someone hasn't figured out a way to grind or modify the guard to make the nipple assessable. Can the uni-joint be reversed so the zerk faces forward? Then you could reach it through one of the holes in the guard. What a PITA! I'm sure mine has never been greased in years, maybe since it left Italy! Maybe I'll just wait till the uni-joint explodes and takes a big chunk out of the guard....I'll be able to reach it then!

Found the OEM plastic elbow on Guzzibits. $31.50 US. Ouch!

Thanks, lots of good photos there that show the problem. Not so much as to the best way to go about a repair. I found it interesting that in the photos of the fuel pump flange, there is only one fuel line fitting (fuel out) and no return line(?) I've never heard of a fuel injection system that does not have a return line to the tank. Funny how each one of these bike is a "one off." No two seem quite the -same. My research found that McMaster-Carr sells stainless steel elbows rated for gasoline. Might be the best way to go. Have to wait until I have a reason to pull the fuel pump. As I said, it's not leaking now, so I'll leave well enough alone until it's time to change the filter.

So, I'm the ony Guzzi owner thats ever had a broken plastic quick release fuel fitting? Anybody?