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LaurentG

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  • My bike(s)
    2000 V11 Sport

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  1. LaurentG

    LaurentG

  2. For the record, Chuck now owns the Staintunes! Enjoy'em Chuck!!!
  3. Selling my 2000 Moto Guzzi V11 Sport. Asking 3500$ It's in great shape and has been very well cared for it's entire life - never dropped. 1100cc, has about 27,500 miles Runs perfect, come with a custom tank bag. the original like-new stock exhaust. I have the original mirrors if the bar-end ones aren't your thing. there is a 12V accessories plug. No leaks. I think the only thing not working is that the tach. Really a great looking and sounding bike that I enjoyed a lot. Moving - bike has to go. I'm currently in the San Francisco Bay area. .
  4. I've got a pair of Staintune I'm not using. They are in good shape - on small scuff area on the chrome but they still look and sound killer. They come with baffles (inserts) to change the sound a little - but i never put those in. I'm currently in the SF Bay area (so are the mufflers) if you're interested.
  5. awesome! and yes, it is under the plastic "hugger". thanks!
  6. Hi, I'm about to import my V11 sport from Canada into the US (where I originally got it!). I need to certify it is EPA compliant, and the easiest way is to find the label which I'm sure it had to have when it got sold in the US in the first place (I'm not the original owner). There is one on the muffler but it is an EPA noise label. They apparently want a label titled "VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION" (that states the bike is compliant). ANY IDEA WHERE IT IS? Thanks!
  7. Well, thanks to Guzzi2go i was able to attack and repair my veglia tach too. Here are a few notes and pics... Cutting it open took all my courage but was the easy part. Once open and looking at the guts i figured the "hair" wires in the coil windings were probably broken. The 2 connections on the black wires on the circuit board showed no continuity... ends up it should read around 56.5 ohms. I unsoldered them (they looked like the easiest to get to), unhooked the 3 connectors and turned the 2 plastic clips (yellow and brown you see there in the middle) to get the IC board out of the way. I then seperated the shaft assembly from the base. DISCLAIMER: To get it all apart and get the coil out I ended up breaking the tiny end of the shaft that is held by a small copper ring pressed onto it. It prevents the assembly from pulling out upwards from the base. Once reassembled this did not seem fatal - but is clearly not ideal. Not easy to get around in my opinion. I bended the tiny clips aside and got the coil free to find the broken wire underneath. I unwraped it just enough to resolder it in place (don't forget to burn off the varnish from the wire with a lighter to get a good contact). Reassembled it : a bit of a delicate PITA - but it now works! I applied silicone to the casing to seal and hold it, but had to remove the outer bead to make it fit in the instrument panel hole so i added a wrap of duct tape too. Overall i'm happy it now works and cost me 0$, but the seal between the gauge and lower plastic cover is not as tight as it was... Notice the gap between the 2 halfs in the pic - i wanted to account for thickness of cut but that was not the best. Maybe would be better to rivet them in place with a back-plate or something. Oh well, next time Overall it's fixed! Hopefully this helps the next guy.
  8. Great write-up but the pictures got lost in time! Any chance of getting those back?
  9. It's year later and this post is still serving us well. I installed the 3/4inch hose with 1/2" copper elbows today. Great fit. Thanks guys!
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