sp838

Yes! Thank you. Going from 8mm down to 6mm shouldn't be too tough, could probably just pound it down on an anvil with my claw hammer

Dunno, mine's still inside the bike. Who here has measured their, uh, rods?

Getting a little too intimate here perhaps, here's a closeup of the, uh, hole: This is the end of a 1/4" drill bit, fits very comfortably inside the cup, so the ID is at the very least 6.35mm:

Not yet, just gave it a look using the old eyeball-o-metrics and it seems to be around 5mm inside diamter, as described in some previous replies. I was planning on having the end of the push rod turned down to fit.

Pshaw. It did the job exactly as needed with elegance and grace. New clutch package weight:

Cam gears!!!

I had to split the whole package to get the hub out. It clearly got pushed in during shipping and twisted around, and got caught between the friction plate and the part in front of it. Really annoying, and could have damaged the teeth, but luckily no damage done. I bolted it all back together after I got it out. So big outer ring gear? Anything to worry about there compatibility wise?

Got the included hub out, single plate V11 hub fits like a glove. And yes, the hammer was necessary.

That's what I was hoping you would say... What about the big starter motor gear? Should I count the teeth/measure diameter? Or that one of those things that is common to Guzzi across models and decades? Will get a new hub nut and washer when install time comes 🤞🤞

Clutch received today, and I'm already wracked with doubts wondering if I made a terrible (ie costly) mistake in buying it. I guess worst case is I return it and have to eat the costs of shipping both ways. Below are some photos, if anyone more knowledgeable and smarter than I am (so basically all of you guys) can tell from the photos if this will work or not, or what I should do to check, I would be very appreciative. For starters, where is the much discussed hub supposed to go? I doesn't fit over the small cylindrical thing in the assembly, though the teeth look like they would match... Does that cylindrical thing get replaced by my hub? If so how do I remove it? I tugged on it and it won't come out on its own. (Maybe I need a hammer) Should I disassemble the whole stack? Next thing I have doubts about are the outer teeth which I assume are for the starter motor. Anyway, please weigh in and let me know on a relative scale just how much of a mistake I made and how big an idiot I am... Happy to take more photos if that helps. view into the place where I think the hub should go: does this guy come out? new hub looks like it wants to go in here but does't fit over that part. Splines on the inside of it don't match anyway: this friggin guy:

I would take a couple too. I'm guessing if we did the minimum order of 50, they'd be $5 each, plus whatever extra the shipping is. Which I'm guessing would be not much, the Chinese govt. subsidizes their shipping costs.

Actually, this raises a good question: were you able to reproduce the problem off the road? If you put the bike on a rear stand, pump the rear brake a few times and release, does it bind, or can you spin the wheel? If it only happens while riding, it could very well be something else. Sounds like you are on the right track though, replacing seals etc., and you found some corrosion which certainly wasn't helping...

I think MG cycle had them at one point as well as Guzzibits in the UK. Drive gear was steel and cam and oil pump gears were alloy. Aluminum sprockets are widely used in performance and racing applications both on track and in the dirt. They are considered consumable wear items and not expected to last. They're expected to be light, and to be replaced often.

I believe they are Stillobtanium

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that WD is bad for the rubber seals inside the caliper and could cause them to deteriorate...