Alright, the job is done for the most part. Tomorrow I will change the oil, retape the electircal connections and zip tie them back and reinstall the gas tank and lord willing all will be good to go.
I learned a lot and honestly the toughest part, other than the stripped hex screw, was breaking the frame bolts loose and for that I had to use a pipe wrench on my allen wrenches. The leak has been slow from quite some time and when it broke loose it make a mess of the side of my bike.
How it happens:
Pictured below are the new gaskets, crank seal and timing cover gasket
First I suggest using a stand otherwise its just not going to happen. Once on the stand you can start breaking it down, I started with the kick stand and sensor thats attached. From there, if I had to do it all over again, I would have removed the tank which will give you access to all the frame bolts. Remove the frame bolts that attach to the timing cover and the ones directly above then loosen the front frame bolts. This will allow you to somewhat swing all this stuff out of they way. By doing so you may be able to get away without having to remove the horns and all the other bits attached. I did put a jack under the sump with a board in between just for good measure.
From there you can really start to get into the meat of things by removing the alternator cover and checking out all the wiring. Once the cover is removed it will look like this:
At this point if you have not drained you oil you may consider doing so then you can remove the oil cooler lines and not make a big mess. From there you need to remove the nut holding the rotor, I used a 24mm wrench. As others suggested, put the bike in gear and have someone get on the rear brake, for me it was my son, and the nut will break loose. Once thats removed you will need to remove the three screws holding the stator in. Then you will need to unhook all the wires so you can feed them down and out of the way. The main wire connection is zip tied and taped up to the frame rail shown here already untaped and zip tie cut:
With the center bolt and the three hex head screws removed you will be able to pull the stator out, you may want to have already fed the wire down so its free from snagging on anything. Once the stator is out you can pull the rotor, I put a screw driver behind it and with very little pressure it pulled right off the shaft. Once apart, as suggested in the manual, put the rotor back in the stator and set aside. After that it should look something like this....I do put screw back in their holes so the two you are seeing are ones that hold the stator in:
From there you can remove the hex head screws that hold the timing cover in place, I would start with the two that are located basically behind the alternator then on to the others on the outside of the cover. Keep a pan under because oil will come out of the timing cover. I made the mistake of pulling most of the screws then going to bed only to find oil all over the floor this morning. Once all the screws are removed you can push the frame section towards the front of the bike and remove the cover. Once pulled mine looked like this....bad gasket!
I cleaned both the block and cover surfaces then took a socket head and knocked out the old crank seal and cleaned up the cover. After that I installed the new crank seal adding just a touch of silicone around the outside of the seal then putting a block over the seal and popping it into place then lined the new gasket up on the block and reinstalled the timing cover. From there you simply reverse the above process and put it all back together.
Now as with all jobs well done, I am enjoying a glass of bourbon on the rocks, Blantons to be exact. Ill change the oil and filter tomorrow then reinstall the tank and report back with the results.
Hope this helps......Cheers!