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jwh20

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Posts posted by jwh20

  1. Great tool. Great price. I love mine. Maybe you should get another V11 to put on it. Where are you in Indiana? V11 are pretty scarce around here.

     

    I'm in Noblesville.  I know they are scarce but I was just out of room in my garage and had to part with something.

  2. I have a Becker Technik Central Lifter shop stand for V11 for sale.  In a moment of weakness I sold me V11 LeMans a couple of years ago but forgot I had this.  It's been used a few times but is in like-new condition.  New these are 75 Euros which is about US$88 and that does not include shipping from Germany.

     

    http://shop.becker-technik.de/en/motorbike-lifters/24-central-lifter.html

     

    To lift the V11 you need 2 18mm sockets which you can pickup just about anywhere.

     

    Free shipping for US buyers.  $55 via Paypal.

  3. I am looking at trading a Kawasaki Concours for a 1200 Sport.  Wondering what anyone knows about the 1200 Sport.  Known issues, common problems, how does it compare to the V11?  Stuff like that.  Thanks.

  4. Are you sure it's fuel and not oil or oily water?  Also are you sure the drop hanging from the tube is the same stuff?

     

    Use your nose, it can tell if it's fuel or oil pretty well.

     

    My V11 would leak a bit of fuel from the bottom of the throttle bodies because the rubber boots were slightly cracked.  After replacing them there is no more leak.  I believe the black tube you are talking about is the crankcase breather tube, it's normal to have some slight discharge from this and it's usually oily water.  There is also a fuel tank overflow tube that comes down somewhere around there.  Generally should not vent fuel unless you're overfilling, have a leaking filler cap, or the cap vent is plugged and pressure is building up in the tank and pushing fuel out the overflow.

  5. I checked the torque of all the screws and they were all where they were supposed to be.  It's probably just a bad application of sealant or something.  It's leaking so little that I'm just going to live with it for now.  I'm sure that I'll eventually have to get into the shifter mechanism and I can seal it up right then.

     

    For now I can live with a drop or two a week which is about the rate it's going.

  6. Looks like the left side plate of your transmission cover is weeping.  Has it been of to replace the shifter springs?  Try just snugging up the screws first.  If the leak persists replace the gasket.

     

    Yes, it has.  The PO had the classic shift-return spring failure and changed it out (or had it done, not sure) but I know it was done and he also gave me a couple of spares along with the bike.

     

    Ok, I'll try to tighten this down a bit and see if that stops it.  The bike has been sitting in one spot for about 3 weeks and there was a drip on the floor about the size of a nickle.  So it's not really leaking very quickly.

     

    Thanks!!  Really nice here in Central Indiana today and had the V11 out for a nice ride!  FINALLY Spring seems to be springing!

  7. This AM I pulled the left injector but left the fuel end connected--got good spray so maybe the carb cleaner finally did its work.Tonight I will reattach injector and see if the left side will run.It has spark and fuel spray so unless the spark timing is off,should see some progress.

    Indeed, you now have 3 of the 4 elements required for combustion.  You have air, fuel, and spark.  As long as there is compression, you should have a running engine!

    • Like 1
  8. Thanks Hubert, I'll try the voltage test.If I don't get 12 volts,where do I go from there?

     

    It could of course be just about anything but I'd focus on what might be wrong after just sitting for a long time.  The #1 suspect in my mind is just that the injector is clogged up with varnish or corrosion and needs to be cleaned (if possible) or replaced.  I'd also check that both injectors are getting fuel.  It may be that the line is blocked.   So check that the injector is spraying fuel, if not, then check if fuel is getting to the injector.

     

    If both of those are good, then check for electrical issues.  Could be the connector is corroded and needs to be cleaned but ultimately you work your way back to the ECU.  It's possible that it's bad but unless the bike was having this issue when last parked, that seems like a long-shot.

     

    You could try swapping the left and right injectors and see if the problem stays or follows.

    • Like 1
  9.  

    Docc,

      there are o-rings under the rocker arm assys. that need replacing. Very easy to do. You have a parts catalogue that shows them ?

    So, I see the #16 O-rings (one per head) and the #21 O-rings (4 per head). The #16 was the one I was thinking could give a drizzle like this (?)

     

    I suppose I'll do them all in my upcoming 100,000 mile refresh. You know, the one I think I ought to do regardless of whether it really needs it.

     

     . . . polish and balance the rods, balance the pistons , yadda-yadda . . .

     

    warum, warum, warum??? :blink:

     

     

    You'll want to try to keep that cleaned off unit you have a chance to fix the leak.  Mine leaked there in the past and the PO didn't clean it off.  It's "cooked" on and I've tried everything but sandpaper to get it off.  Someone suggested oven cleaner but I'm afraid that might discolor the aluminum.

  10. As I recall there are a couple of bullet connectors under the front of the tank that are a part of the starter circuit and these easily come loose.  I know there are some other postings on the details here on the board.

     

    By the way, NICE looking LeMans!  I love the champagne color!  Mine's red and it's a close 2nd.  Hope you get it going soon, the V11 is a great bike! 

  11. Run a tap through the threads with some WD-40 to chase out any corrosion, gunk etc. Spray some contact cleaner (PJ1 is the best) in there and blow the threads out with compressed air to remove any little bits of metal, corrosion, and to de-grease. Re-install the bolts with blue loctite. Torque using appropriate torque for the fastener size and material. Oftentimes the torque specified in the manual is wrong. Do not over-torque.

     

    Here is a good torque chart:

     

    https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension%20Chart%20for%20Metric%20Fasteners.pdf

    Good idea to clean the threads out but it's so very easy (don't ask me how I know!!) to cut new threads with a tap especially with soft Guzzi Aluminum!  Thread-chasers to a better job and make it much more difficult to bugger-up the threads.

  12. Sorry, I guess I mis-read that mm vs. cm...  So the idea is the same, just not to the same degree.  The rod is intended to make a parallelogram and keep the two U-joints in the driveshaft at the same angle as the suspension goes up and down.  So this will change the angle by a bit and it may help slightly or hurt slightly.  My guess is that 10 mm will not be a significant change.

     

    Now if you're just getting this to look cool, be sure you have a single-sided exhaust because on my bike the rod is almost impossible to see unless you get down on the ground. 

  13. I assume your talking about a V11 model and this is what Guzzi calls a "reaction rod" in the V11 parts diagram...

     

    If so, it seems to me that on the V11 a longer bar will force the rear gearbox to a different angle than originally designed.  As I understand the operation of a cardan shaft (i.e. the drive shaft) you want to keep the angles for the front and rear U-joints as close to the same as possible in order to get the smoothest power delivery to the rear wheel.  If one end is angled more than the other you will get uneven motion due to the un-matched U-joint motions.

     

    But it also seems that with 10 cm of extra length you are going to push the angle past 0 degrees and end up with an additive effect of the motions and make for a very uneven rotation of the shaft.  It might be ride-able but probably will certainly add stress to the shaft, the transmission, and the rear gearbox.

     

    I suppose you could get the longer shaft and have a local machine shop cut 10 cm out of it and weld it back together.  But for that cost you might even have a local machinist cut you one from a block of aluminum, titanium, or whatever your budget allows.

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