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Paradiso

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Everything posted by Paradiso

  1. Is it from Japan? It looks like a Bōsōzoku style custom. It's a (strange) mix of old school chopper and vintage race replica. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks. Much appreciated. I'm pretty sure that it is the 'weak' loom you mention. Though I think the manufacturing date was probably 2002. I've never been stuck, but I don't like that nagging doubt brought on by the click without engagement. I have been through the loom few times, checking and lubricating connections, including the ignition switch and the start and cut out switches with Vaseline. I've also checked the connections on the relay bases. My bike's all covered up at the minute due to the British winter and the copious salt that is spread on the roads- 3 covers, battery removed and tank emptied-so it might be a while before I get it sorted, but the diagram really helped clarify what I need to do. Regards
  3. Thanks for posting that Kiwi_Roy. I've read most of the other posts about Startus Interruptus, yours and others', but still wasn't quite clear about how to proceed. It's clear that there are a few different approaches-being a complete electrical dunderhead I found it a bit confusing. The combination of the drawing and the summary really helps. I like the idea of limited chopping into the original loom too, so it's reversible if I mess it up. I also like taking the new positive from the starter rather than the battery, which already has quite a few ring connectors attached. When you write, "The first thing to do is test for Voltage at the start relay 30 terminal with the key turned Off, if its present that's good", I'm not quite sure what you mean. Do you mean that this check on the original starter relay verifies that you have the 'weak' wiring which routes the solenoid trigger through the ignition switch? Or do you simply mean check this on the newly wired relay to ensure all is good? I have a V11 Tenni registered in 2003. It occasionally suffers from 'Startus Interruptus'. In the past I've removed the starter relay and connected contacts 30 and 87 on the starter relay base with a length of wire to start. Is there a simple test to check that my bike has the 'weak' wiring system? Thanks
  4. A 'stand by' if it won't start, gleaned from another thread on here, is a short piece of wire with a blade at each end to connect the two contacts after removing no.1 relay. I keep it under the seat. I've never been stuck, but my 2002/2003 Tenni suffers the same issue. I too have cleaned the ignition switch contacts, but it didn't seem to change the situation. I've looked at the recommendations for rejigging the ignition wiring, but haven't taken that step yet. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  5. It might be worth checking the cable run to the left hand side of the throttle bodies. It can come off the cam if there's too much play. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  6. I've got a similar Ancel unit and it seems to work well. Do check that the crocodile clips are firmly attached to the Odyssey battery terminals/bolts. Maybe it's a 'one off', but I was getting varied condition info. when I connected to the bolt heads. Maybe the threads of the terminals are 'generous', but the best contact is on the threads of the bolt, with the clips 'pulling' on the bolts. I was almost convinced that my pc545 was on the way out until I spotted this. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  7. Melissa Holbrook Pearson rode a Guzzi. I enjoyed her book. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Perfect-Vehicle-Melissa-Holbrook-Pierson/dp/0393318095 Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  8. They were JIS fasteners rather than Philips. What you needed was a JIS screwdriver and all would have been well. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  9. A few days back I checked my TPS reading using a 'Caspers' connector I'd bought some time ago, but not used. It read 196-I'd set it some time ago using pins, but I thought it was closer to 150 than that. I adjusted it to 157 and had a test ride. It made a dramatic difference to smooth running, particularly at lower revs. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  10. Yes Steve. The Cat D might put some off, but it means nothing given the prices of new Guzzi parts. Even a tumble off the side stand could see a bike 'written off'. It's not the best cosmetically, but it's original and almost 20 years old. Under 15 000 miles too. I got stung with having to replace the original clutch and flywheel within a fortnight of getting it, and a subsequent wait for parts. I've got 3 bikes at the moment and generally insure 2 each year, and storage space is bit of an issue. I'll probably keep it. I enjoy riding it, but it's not a bike that's best suited to pottering around N. Yorkshire lanes. I remember the Cafe Sport you had. That looked spotless. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  11. In the UK V11 prices seem to be in a trough. You might have seen my V11 Tenni on EBay last week. Started at £3500. Had lots if watchers, but not one person came to view. If you look at sold items, a couple have realised £3000. Have you sold a few V11s over the years? I suppose Guzzi have always been a bit of a niche interest. It strikes me as crazy that someone would prefer to sink 4-6k into a worn out 80s Suzuki GT380 or 500. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  12. Yes. It's mine. They came with 2 seats; an impractical (If you live in the UK where it rains) brown suede one and a black vinyl one. It's a good bike. I've got 3 bikes and limited space. In truth it gets used less than the other 2. I prefer to potter in an upright posture along country lanes these days as the roads are crammed most of the time. I also spend more time cycling (mtb) than riding motorbikes. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  13. Yes. That looks like it. I would check the full length. It does look dry though. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  14. It's worth checking the engine breather hose on top of the engine which does degrade and leak, spreading oil far and wide. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  15. If it's pristine, it'll have to have been unused in a museum, probably with an empty fuel tank. The original finish has problems and these are likely to become apparent as soon as the bike is used. Speaking as someone with a Tenni, the original textured paint will flake as it doesn't adhere properly to the cases. The matte paint on the tank can bubble too. Generally speaking, the matte paint elsewhere isn't easy to keep at it's best either. Mine has the odd 'bloom' mark on the tailpiece. You can't polish these out as you would with a gloss paint. There's also the flywheel issue. I tend to believe this to be a case of 'when' not 'if'. A pristine and original bike isn't so desirable if it's got a time bomb as a flywheeI. Probably easier and more practical to refinish a bike. I like the textured engine paint. Maybe there are better modern alternatives. Harley Davidson have a similar finish. MGB GT dashboards also have a textured finish not dissimilar to the Tenni's cases. This might work. https://pj1.com/product/fast-black-texture-paint/ Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  16. Well worth the visit. Guzzis predominated. Some well used 70s and 80s Guzzis and a very nice Magni. More new than old Ducatis present and a couple of Morinis, but no Laverdas that I noticed. Only one V11 other than my Tenni. Lots of very nice Ferraris, Maseratis, Alfas and a few Lancias too. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  17. https://www.newbyhall.com/event/italian-cars-bike 30th May I've just ordered a ticket. Might be of interest to others. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  18. That looks great. It's a real period piece. You need some 80s style leathers with geometric patterns for full effect. It's nice to see one that's still original. So many have been 'restyled' as home made cafe racers, there can't be many left like yours. I had a Le Mans III in the 90s. When I got the V11 I was surprised how different the power delivery was. The MK III seemed more 'flexible', delivering 'go' across the rev range, with gear selection less critical. By comparison, the VII has to be revved and requires more rider input. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  19. The clutch pushrod on the 6 speed is wider than on the 5 speed. Hence the requirement to use the original button/cup. I rode my Tenni with the single plate and the twin plate. While the 'feel' of the single plate was preferable, there's not a lot in it. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  20. I priced it. I didn't buy it. I got a 2nd hand one myself. As has been discussed in previous posts, the RAM unit wasn't available for the 6 speed-though Scud did manage to source one. It wasn't available for a long while, though it may be now. I think it is possible to make the 5 speed RAM unit fit using the original single flywheel clutch centre and centre 'button' (the part the pushrod contacts). At the time Pete Roper also warned that the RAM unit might wear quickly. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  21. It's the £150 one that I meant. The expensive stuff is there. I priced up new parts when I needed to replace mine and it was close to £2000. The flywheel alone was close to £1000 IIRC. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  22. Not mine, but might be of some use to a Scura or Tenni owner who wants to replace the original clutch and flywheel. Seems cheap too. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  23. I have no experience of Peru, but how about a Yamaha XT225 Serow? Low seat, light weight, rugged and reliable. https://www.loisontheloose.com/ Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  24. Paradiso

    TLM Guzzi

    The CCM GP450 has the front sprocket at the pivot as you mention. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  25. Hi Paul. I thought I had no. 16, but I could be wrong. There isn't a number plate on mine, but it came from Aberdeen in 2014. Congratulations on the new bike. I'm not far away-in Guisborough. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
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