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pete roper

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pete roper last won the day on March 22

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About pete roper

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    "I live here"

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  • My bikes
    GRiSO, Aprilia Mana, Yamahama Sidecar Outfit
  • Location
    Fat, drunken disgraceland.😎

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  1. Dear god no, don't wish that on us. The world, and especially Guzzi, does not need yet another prehistoric, pushrod powered shit-stick masquerading as a motorbike......
  2. If they are going to produce something *New* there haven't been any sightings around Mandello and that would be a first. There are always shots of new models being road tasted near the factory. Having said that all design and development is probably done at Noale now so maybe people just aren't looking in the right place.....
  3. Yup, same same, just a different size. These nits and washers ar a generic SKF part available at most decent bearing factors.
  4. Rolf, on the contrary, I mentioned a very low torque for the nut. This is made particularly confusing because the manual, written in usual, rather vague, Guzzi fashion does mention a very high torque for a nut in the CARC but this is in fact not one of the crownwheel or pinion nuts, (They aren't mentioned because the whole reactive bridge is a non repairable item according to them!) that high torque is in fact for the seal holder which also compresses the outer races of the pinion bearings and seats them.
  5. Nah, nothing so sophisticated. They're just a strap with a couple of bend down tangs after the buckle. You wind them down with a tightening tool, ($25 at 'Wottalottacrap Auto') bend the end over 180, snip the excess length off with the tool and then use the tangs to hold the end back at 180. If you want them tighter? Just wind the band around the shaft twice before tightening. Hard to explain. Needs a video.
  6. Done that too. Actually it is possible to remove the front boot and seal holder, (If you have the correct tool.) without splitting the case and then, in theory, you can do the nut and washer + Loctite trick without splitting the cases. Problem with this is that the boot is retained by a 'Single use' clamp. Now it can be pried out gently and re-used. If you are very careful and smart! This is why Michael has developed a technique that allows him to do it successfully almost without fail when replacing failed pinion seals. Me? Not so much, I always screw it up so I prefer to split the case
  7. Oh you can see if it is still tight by peering down the seal holder and poking at the nut with a screwdriver. Problem is unless it is coming loose you don't know if it's still OK or is a poofteenth off loosing its preload! Arse!
  8. V11 bevelbox is completely different. It's a real 'Weird Harold' design where the pinion is supported in a strange '2-Part/Combination Bearing'. It has a big roller bearing to take the rotational loads and then in front of it a caged ball bearing with a split outer race. I've never seen anything like it in any other application, (Perhaps Phil has?). It's a real exemplar of how Guzzi engineers used to approach some things from completely left field. No, this particular issue doesn't occur with V11 boxes. Their major weirdness is the fact the pinion nose bearings always get starved of oil a
  9. Well yes, and no. The thing is that to tackle it you really need to split the case. Then you need a special peg socket to remove the seal holder and then another peg socket to remove the nut after biffing down the tang on the lock washer. Then you have to replace the lockwasher, apply Loctite to the pinion threads and re-torque the nut to its very low torque figure and lock it. After which you reassemble the CARC. Is it difficult? Not really, but the consequences of getting it wrong will be horribly expensive and there is no published torque figure, (That I know of.) so I just use th
  10. Sorry, I used the usual method of posting pics. You'll have to chase them down. It makes my brain hurt.
  11. The bevelbox on the CARC system is generally pretty robust. The one Achilles Heel it has is the light preload on the pinion bearings supplied by the nut and the fact that it is held there simply by a lockwasher. For some bizarre reason Guzzi don't Loctite it and if the bearings settle or wear the preload is lost, the nut comes loose and things go pear shaped fairly quickly. First symptom will be noise from the final drive on the over-run. If you notice this stop riding immediately. Not only could it preceed a catastrophic failure but also if you stop it there and then it may well be possi
  12. Well, no tyres to be had in Dubbo so I rode it home, gently..... Rear tyre is now as bald as a badger's arse but not down to the cords. so much win! It really was a great trip, (Appart from Greg busting himself up!) I really enjoyed it, even though a lot of the road was boring. I'm sure now that I'll enjoy touring on this rig. It gives me a great incentive to actually fix the carburetion properly!
  13. Well sadly things didn't turn out as planned. Greg Trowelled his Griso on pea gravel at the entrance to the Clermont Roadhouse. It was one of those stupid 'Touch the front brake and go down at walking pace' accidents. Griso got a scuffed rocker cover and busted gear lever. Greg rode on in great pain to Emerald but when we got there we had to call the ambulance from the Motel. They hauled him off to A&E and kept him in overnight. Next day x-rays reveal a cracked hip socket in his pelvis! Arse. Peter rode back to Townsville to mount the recovery mission and I pressed on alone. Only prob
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