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pete roper

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pete roper last won the day on June 29

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About pete roper

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    "I live here"

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    GRiSO, Cali 1100, Aprilia Mana, Mighty CT110
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    Fat, drunken disgraceland.😎

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  1. That will be the pinions lashing about in the box. Balance the TB's and make sure the idle speed is 1100 rpm or so and it will probably be better.
  2. Yes, the 'Chinky-Chinky-Chinky' sound when the clutch is pulled is made by the intermediate plate teeth rattling in the flywheel splines as the flywheel accelerates and decelerates with the power pulses of the engine.
  3. You need a couple of burly mates to help lift the frame off the motive unit or you can slip the engine off the gearbox by pulling it forward. There's a lot of work involved. Replacing the clutch is not hard but if your mechanical skills aren't up to much it would be better to farm it out. Before you go all in it might be worth pulling the swingarm and checking the clutch thrust bearing but I'll pretty much guarantee it's the clutch going west.
  4. It's torn the center out of one of the friction plates. When the other one goes, (Soon.) you will fail to proceed. New clutch. Don't buy Surflex.
  5. There's always going to be moisture in the case. Water is one of the major by products of combustion and blow by means there is plenty in the case. The whole idea is to try and prevent it condensing into water while it's in there so it can be expelled. I actually have an identical thermostat to Mark's sitting in my van at the moment but right now I simply can't be bothered to fit it. I very rarely ride in the rain any more and that, more than anything else, will have the oil temperature plummeting! As it is my Griso idles at about 1400rpm and evening in 40*C ambient temps, in traffic, it has never dangerously overheated it's oil. Unless I get caught in the rain the oil temperature will hold at 75-80*C and a few minutes in traffic will have it up around 100*C in short order even in single digit ambient temperatures. Yes I think a thermostat is a great idea and I think it is unfortunate that they chose not to use one in the cooling circuit of the 8V but for my usage nowadays I don't really worry about it's absence.
  6. Don't be. Apart from anything else it should be remembered that the original big block motor was designed to sit idling in Milan traffic in high summer with a fat Carribinieri sitting on top of it! Just about the only relevant changes to the design are the adoption of fuel injection and, with the advent of the Squarefin motor, even greater fin area. A thermostatically controlled oil cooler is a benefit but more so the faster one is travelling. At slow speed or a standstill the difference it makes is marginal. Yes, modern engines run hotter but in all my years of working on them I've never seen problems caused by overheating as long as the lubrication system is working as it should. The Nuovo Hi-Cam motors as used on the CARC series bike do have an issue due to the sump spacer gasket blowing out on the lubrication side. This results in a loss of pressure which can cause damage but such a failure usually makes itself known by the camchains starting to rattle as the hydraulic tensioner plungers are starved of oil. It has caused big end failures but is fairly rare, (Although I replace the gasket as a matter of course during rollerisation of an 8V. There is a very much superior aftermarket gasket available that completely eradicates the problem.) just something to be aware of. It is NOT something I've ever known to affect any of the 2V motors. As for heat? My Griso in high summer will heat its oil to >135ºC in traffic. It's never caused me a problem. Conversely I worry more in winter as it's damn near impossible to get the oil above 75-80ºC due to the cooling circuit not being thermostatically controlled. Yes. Try to avoid getting stuck in traffic for hours in high summer but I wouldn't die in a ditch over it. The excessive heat is far more likely to cook the phase sensor than cause metallurgical or lubrication problems.
  7. Have you read Mark's instructions over at Griso.org. ? If not do so. It might be worth reaching out to him as well. Despite his reputation he doesn't bite!
  8. No, this plate is for the 'Broad sump' engines so the Centauro, Daytona RS, Sport-I and V11's. I'd also add that unless you are really a hard launcher it is unlikely you'd need one on one of the five speed bikes simply because of the way they are geared and their unlikliness to wheelie.
  9. I really can't remember. When I was working in London the V75 had just been launched. It was one of the biggest grenades ever! The shop sold one to a bloke in Bristol, he picked it up and it dropped a valve before it got to Reading! They did that a lot!
  10. In which case they aren't quite as much of a grenade......
  11. Well that's interesting because that one is a 2 valver.
  12. I thought it was. So it's a grenade. Do a lot of research and fixin before you ride it. Look for information from Chuck, Jacksnracing, and a few other hard core 4V smallblock masochists for info. Chuck will also probably know other names? Who was that Scandinavian nutter? GuzziBlue or some such? Barking mad but very knowledgeable.
  13. Not exactly a newer model but hey So it's a smallblock 750. 2 or 4 valve per cylinder. I can't remember. As for parts there is some communality with other models but stuff like bodywork and some engine bits will probably be difficult. Try TLM in Holland, Stein Dinse in Germany or Ago's in Mandello.
  14. You could try reaching out to Mark at Griso.org I believe he's produced a pretty good Calvin map. I take it you've ensured the tune is correct? Balanced the TB's? Set the TPS correctly?
  15. Phil, I have virtually every puller known to man, and probably a few not available to aliens! On that Sport C the ONLY thing that eventually moved it was heat, lots and lots of heat! Yes it did for the paint but believe me, if I could of found an alternative I would of been all over it like a rash!
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