Jump to content

pete roper

Members
  • Posts

    2,645
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    53

pete roper last won the day on May 8

pete roper had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    GRiSO, Aprilia Mana, Yamahama Sidecar Outfit
  • Location
    Fat, drunken disgraceland.😎

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Recent Profile Visitors

3,191 profile views

pete roper's Achievements

"I live here"

"I live here" (5/5)

929

Reputation

  1. Don't get me wrong. If someone wants a gauge by all means fit one. The thing is that one fitted into the sump in one of the redundant plug holes or indeed anywhere else isn't going to give an accurate assessment of what the temperature of the oil is where it's actually doing the heat removing part of its work. Where that is is at the bearing faces on the crank, big ends and camshaft and to get any meaningful info you'd either need to have the sensor in a delivery gallery or better yet, in the stream of oil exiting the bearings. In one way this actually means that an oil temperature dipstick isn't actually too bad a solution! Where it sits in the motor means that it is in the path of the constant streamer of oil pouring out from between the connecting rods as the crank spins but it's still pretty hit and miss, literally, and of course it will be dumping heat even as it travels towards the probe on the stick! If the sensor is in the wall of the sump it's reading is going to reflect little on the temperature of the oil where it is doing its job and the sump wall itself is going to act as a dirty great heat sink! Then there is the types of gauge. This 'Analog' type of gauge must use a sensor with some sort of waxstat or the like in it which then pushes on the column of fluid in the feed tube to the handlebar mounted gauge itself. In the gauge one assumes the fluid presses on some sort of membrane or mechanism that translates that linear movement into the rotational movement that moves the needle. The problem there is of course that the environment that the tube passes through will have a profound effect on the gauge's *Reading*. Running it up the back of the block and then through the valley will lead to it being hotter and therefore the medium within it expanding more than if it is routed away from engine heat. That will change the reading on the gauge rendering it inaccurate. As will different ambient temperatures that the machine is run in and the bike's velocity as that will effect air flow. By all means fit a gauge if you want. Just don't put any stock by it! With the pushrod motors in all their iterations we know that unless something is really wrong with their set-up they are massively over-cooled and it will be very difficult to get them to overheat to a dangerous degree. The early Hi-Cams? Not so much. Later Hi-Cam is so grotesquely over cooled it is actually hard to keep them hot enough in winter!
  2. Can I say that fitting an oil temperature gauge, especially in that position and doubly especially of that type is an exercise in futility. It will tell you ritually nothing and certainly won't 'Protect' your engine.
  3. Happy to be corrected. I haven't seen a 16M bike since? Forever! And happy about it. I actually thought the P8 was a happier thing, albeit vast!
  4. John, it uses the 16M. Don't think there's a version of GD for the 16M.
  5. The commonest thing that happens to MkIII's is that some prick gets a hold of one and sees that the jetting on the carbs is different from the earlier mid valve, roundfin, LeMans. This causes them to phoam at the mouth, chew the carpet and accuse the evil gubmint of trying to stifle the fun of the poor motorcyclist in the name of emissions. This is absolute bollocks as the carbs are completely different. Apart from the PHF, (From memory. I haven't touched a carb in years, thank @#!#$#!) designation they are a different instrument. The *Experts* will install earlier jetting and turn the bike into an overfuelling pig that will wear itself out in 20,000km. and won't pull the skin off a rice pudding. Next step is to install K&N pod filters to 'Free Up' the breathing. The only advantage being of this being they'll @#!#$# the carb bodies and slides so they need to buy new ones at the same point 20,000km down the track when they are replacing the barrels and pistons and rebuilding the heads! Back about the turn of the millennium I had a bloke bring me a completely stock, low km Mk III. It was fifteen or so years old and very low Kms. I went through it front to rear replacing anything that was rotted or leaking, serviced it and rode it. I took it around Test Track 'C'. Bungendore, Tarago, Goulburn and back down the Federal Highway, a three lane motorway/freeway. It was butter smooth, sprightly and I saw an indicated 195kph on new tyres. It was lovely. Then they dumped that for the 'Big Valve' LM IV! An ugly, physically larger and heavier, vibratory turd that went no faster and had only minimally better acceleration. That was the beginning of a decade in the wilderness. Some would say twenty years.......
  6. Prior to the 1100 Sport series there were basically three different cylinder head designs and valve sizes. With the 700 and 750cc loops there were other tiny differences but by the time the motors got taken out to 850cc right the way through to the last of the 950's there were basically three types of of combustion chamber design, small valve, mid valve and big valve. These were matched with a variety of pistons to give different compression ratios and from the 850T right the way through to the 1000S they all used a 78mm throw crank. That 'Golden Age' of the Tonti framed bikes was really one where Guzzis were like Meccano sets for grown ups! You could mix & match pretty much end thing. Of all of them the 'Big Valve' heads, which only came in squarefin form, have always been a bit of a 'Holy Grail' for people wanting to build rorty-snorty motors but IMHO the 'Big Valve' motor used in the MkIV-V LeMans and some 1000S's is a horrible thing! To get the compression up due to the combustion chamber being huge to accommodate the big valves the incredibly heavy, cast, pistons have an enormous alp of alloy on the top of them. This in turn makes the flame path long and convoluted and leaves all sorts of nooks and crannies for end gas to lurk to pollute the next incoming charge lowering combustion pressure and risking detonation issues. Bleargh! Horrible! Also big valve heads are absolute murder on valve guides! No idea why really as the 1100 motors, even the 'Sport' ones with similar sized valves and guide length don't seem to flog out so quickly as the smaller bore 'Big Valve' heads. If I was in the market for a 1000S I'd actually prefer one of the mid valvers with 36mm carbs. While no doubt it would get me sneered at by people who 'Know better' the fact is that the mid valve LeMans III/1000S motor and it's even sweeter close cousin used in the SPIII are to my mind the apogee of the 78mm stroke engine's development. The Mk III was an 850 and to my mind every bit as sweet as the 950's.
  7. (Sigh.) While it is quite possible to improve the fuelling above and beyond the factory mapping adding any of these *Magical* widgets is an utter waste of time and money. The 15M and 15M RC ECU's have been an open book for well over a decade and modifying the maps is a far more accurate and useful way of going about things than adding some shitty little resistor to deliberately screw up sensor inputs. Just say no to hocus-pocus! You know it makes sense!
  8. Nah, it was a combination of things I believe. I've written about it before elsewhere but when I have time I can cover it here if you'd like?
  9. Nah, tha failures of the tappets in the 8V had bugger all to do with oil or it's additives.
  10. I'm betting on the timing chest gasket, although they usually blow out further up.
  11. You have to be super-alert. The squeak occurs just before the 'Dogga-Dogga' noise. The 'Dogga-Dogga' noise tends to cost a minimum of $1,000 per 'Dogga'.😂
  12. While ZDDP is known to be *good* my bet is there are now other additives that will offer equal or even superior protection. Oil is good. I use it otherwise my engines squeak.
  13. I'm working off my pad of eyes Docc. I just poke around on the screen, no mouse. I've got a heap more pics of stripped and buggered gears as well. Some of them are pretty gruesome. The only ones I'd use are Joes.
  14. http://<a href="https://flic.kr/p/e3gPFS" title="More crappy gears by -convertpervert-"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/8505/8558358076_3572d56784_o.jpg" width="450" height="600" alt="More crappy gears"></a> buggered if I can work out how to post pics here.
×
×
  • Create New...