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pete roper

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pete roper last won the day on January 17

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About pete roper

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  • My bikes
    GRiSO, Stelvio, Cali 1100
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    Fat, drunken disgraceland.😎

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  1. I could tell you a tale about something similar. There was a mouth breather involved. His bike ran like a pile of damp fecal matter but he reckoned it was great because the 'Expert' responsible for both the mod and the tune said within earshot of me that "You set up fuel injection just like carbs. Just use the rod to balance the throttlebodies at idle and turn the air bleeds out 1&1/2 turns and it'll be sweet!" He'd also installed some sort of pool hose to the airbox spigots to "Get the cold air in." This isn't just my world. Sadly it's yours as well unless you actually know how to tune your own bike.
  2. I’ve spent a lifetime mending motorbikes. I have no desire to spend my retirement doing the same shit when it can easily be avoided. (Shrug.)
  3. Same huge pile of boiling, supturating, leaky arse! As much use as an ejector seat in a helicopter!
  4. Look, people are welcome to do exactly as they please but the two things I did when I first bought the Scura RC now owned by Chuck was to replace the single plate clutch with a twin plater and dump the shitty pod filters and reinstall the airbox. If people want to run a K & N filter that's fine but if it comes into my workshop expect a torrent of spluttering, incandescent fury and for it to be returned to you in a bag when the service is complete!
  5. It can't be that hard or expensive to get air filters surely? The V11 uses the same air filter as the Cali 1100 so beloved by the Corn Cob Pipe brigade. They'd fly into an apoplectic frenzy if air filters weren't available! GU30113600 Bash that into AF1's site and they're thirteen dollars but because they don't do a lot for older stuff they'd have to order them in. Lets try MG Cycles? OK, $11.48 from the Cheesers. Harpers? $13.10 but their website makes it harder to find. Order from Europe? Well just as an example from TLM they're €9.05 Air filters aren't exactly *Emergency Breakdown* items, sure it is good to keep an extra one hanging around but as a service item they can usually be bought by planning ahead a bit. Like oil filters, gaskets, sealing washers and all the other service dross we need just buy three and keep them on the shelf. Unless you're one of these folks who changes motorbikes like most people change underpants they'll all get used. It's not like they are going to go off like a bag of old prawn heads! Pete
  6. A popular mod on Grisos is drilling the airbox lid or removing it entirely. It is, without a doubt, one of the most spectacularly useless modifications one can make achieving nothing apart from exposing the filter to the risk of damage. Adding a rock strainer filter as well is also popular with the only 'Benefits' being a lot of tiring noise and rapid ring and bore wear! Very early in the piece I tried the airbox lid trick on my 1200, why not? Lids are cheap and it was a lazy five minutes with a hole saw. A trip to the dyno revealed a staggering peak power increase of 0.2 hp and the torque curve looked like the trail left by a drunken spider dipped in ink! Couldn't be arsed harassing anyone to build a specific map for such a mod, just slapped the unmodified lid back on and called it good. Since then a lot more experimentation has been done and we've found the best combination to be stock airbox and filter, snorkel removed and a proper log built map. I'd bet a motza that the same would be true of the V11 airbox but without the snorkel deletion as they don't have one.
  7. Oh, and the same goes for 'Flat' replacements for the stock filter by K & N or whoever. Labyrinth filters *work*, again using the word advisedly, by forcing the air to twist and turn around the filter media. The actual 'Holes' in the filter are huge, this is why you can effectively see through them. The way they are supposed to work is that as the air twists and turns through the media any particulate matter having greater mass and therefore inertia will try to keep going straight and in doing so will collide with the oily medium of the filter's structure and stick to it. Great theory. In practice it's pretty much useless. If you want to dust your motor, short of shovelling sand down the throttle bodies fitting a labyrinth filter is a pretty close second!
  8. What you will achieve is a loss of performance and accelerated wear of your engine. Pod filters, as I stated in another thread yesterday, are utter shit and should be ruthlessly stamped out whenever they rear their ugly, useless, heads!
  9. https://shop.tlm.nl/en/used-rear-drive-7-33-cal-3-us-17350250a-moto-guzzi (Shrug.) found this in two minutes.
  10. If there was one thing I'd like to see made punishable by tarring and feathering it's throwing away air boxes and fitting 'Pods'. Pod filters, especially labyrinth filters like K & N's, are the work of the devil and should be ruthlessly stamped out!
  11. It can get pretty hot here and even in traffic I've never had any issues with 4 & 6 thou clearances on any Squarefin motor. Roundfins need a thou or two more due to their cast iron/HCS rocker supports but even their 8 & 8 are absurd, I run 5 & 7 with them. The early Hi-Cams I don't have enough experience with to know the subtle nuances of necessary valve clearances but the 'Nuovo 8V' works fine with 4 & 6 and in fact the gaps actually open up with heat. It's very sensitive to changes in valve lash though. Sensitive enough to run poorly if they are wrong and you're running an open loop map.
  12. 2 & 4 thou we're the ridiculously tight specs for the US market to try and get past noise regs. It was t really necessary in the end. As for using the bigger clearances? Why? Why would you want to reduce lift and duration on an old 2 valve dunger like the Ditcpump?
  13. I thought they'd done away with TDC markings by the time the V11 came out? I mean what would be the point of any sort of timing marks? The spark, along with the injection pulse signal, is governed by the phase sensor and phonic wheel and its input is non adjustable although how it is interpreted and how the ECU processes the information is adjustable in the map. For setting the valve lash just turn the motor by hand until you see the inlet valve close and then pull it round until the piston is very close to TDC. This can be established by the drinking straw method or simply by feel once you have the hang of it. The piston doesn't need to be *Exactly* at top dead to set the valves. As long as the tappets are on the base circle of the cam lobes that's all you need. Clearances are 4 & 6 thou.
  14. Any model from the T3 through to the T5, all the Tonti framed LeMans and the Cali II all used the 7/33 ratio final drive. If going down the route of seeking a complete bevelbox be aware the the earlier drum rear brake 850T not only uses a different ratio, (8/35 from memory?) but also has a thinner flange on the pinion carrier and uses different pinion bearings meaning if it is going to be used with a later swingarm it will need a spacer making up to fit it. Also fitting any of these bevelboxes to the EV will require the swapping of the axle spacer in the box, (From memory.). It is nowadays getting hard to find a decent 7/33 from an earlier bike. Most of them the pinion splines are munted through age and abuse and often the pinion teeth will be pitted. Caveat emptor. The alternative is to purchase a new 7/33 gear set and build a new box.€416 from TLM but you'll need shims, bearings etc.
  15. pete roper

    Scura clutch

    That would be the aim. I'd think if one was to do it on a regular basis it would be worth cutting a rod the correct length. That would probably need a bit of experimentation. It is one of the few disadvantages of hydraulic clutch activation, the lack of a cable which is easily adjustable means that tolerances of parts like a clutch pushrod are far more critical.
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