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pete roper

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Everything posted by pete roper

  1. Thing is guys your cars aren't stuffed full of identical technology and you never give it a second thought! Why worry about it on your bikes.
  2. Just a heads up to anyone who buys one of these things. Local Bloke has one, fitted a new rear tyre from a different manufacturer and it threw a service warning ⚠️ and refused to engage the cruise control. Dealer, (The importer's shop.) was useless. They "Plugged in the computer" and it didn't tell them anything so they pushed him out the door with a shrug and the dash still lit up like a Christmas tree. Back in Bunged End I ran into him in the pub and as he bemoaned this I suggested checking clutch and brake switches as faults with these will disable the cruise but then it dawned on me, "Did you recalibrate the TC after the new tyre was fitted?" "No." "OK, try that on the way home." Problem fixed. Now if you replace the tyres as matched pairs, even if they are of a different brand, chances are the circumferential difference betwixt front and rear won't be enough to make it have a spazz. If you just replace one tyre with a different brand, even if the profile is nominally the same, it must push the TC out of its comfort zone, hence the ⚠️ and lack of cruise.
  3. Gimme an address. I'll send you one and you can take it and brandish it at your local parts house and get a x-reference. All you need is is a switch that is closed at rest. All switches tend to operate between 0.8 and 1.5 bar which is bugger all. The PS 039 cracks at 1.5 bar I think and has a larger, 22mm hex than the one originally used by Guzzi which was 19 from memory. Thing is as long as it actually cracks any pressure is pretty much OK. A healthy engine will, even at a hot idle, reach that unless there is something wrong with it or the idle speed is way too low. Pete
  4. It's an aftermarket brand, probably made in China I'd guess but Tridon are a huge aftermarket concern, their catalog is about a foot thick!
  5. The coarse thread ones can be substituted with a Tridon PS039
  6. How many grand are you out of pocket? How many bikes have you seen #@$&@#@ by incompetence? No worries. I give a @#!#$# what shit people do to their bikes but I'm certainly not going to encourage it. Out.
  7. S'not your fault Yank banks are even more cretinous than those elsewhere. It was a pain in the quoit for both of us but there was never any I'll will. Being shilled and exploited by smug crooks who are selling stuff they don't understand and stuff that doesn't work? That's different. As far as hopping up V11's is concerned I've never ridden one that comes close to Chuck's Scura which is utterly bonkers. I also don't understand those that get all hung up on HP figures. There are lots of people building or who have built 1400 8V's. Some simply transplant the 1400 donk from the Cali into a different chassis and use the full 7SM/Single throttlebody system, some actually build 1400 barrels and pistons onto a 1200 motor. The one thing that the vast majority of them do is claim stupid, unfeasible, HP figures. Figures that simply aren't possible from an engine with the 8V's heads and cams. When people ask me how much power a 1200 8V makes I'll say 'About 100.' Ask me the same question about the 1400 and you'll get the same answer. The difference isn't really in the peak power, (The 1200 will happily run to 9K. I'd be loath to try that with the 14.) it's in the torque and how it is delivered. The V11 motor is pretty much peaked out as far as longevity is concerned. Yes, you can get it to make more, (Not huge amounts more, but more.) but start pulling much bigger figures and it will loose its reliability and longevity pretty quickly. Pete
  8. Even a blind squirrel can find a nut sometimes. If people want to use Todd's services? That's fine. I have seen his 'Maps'. I laugh. How many bikes do you see for sale in SoCal and one of the selling points is they have this shit installed, recently? If it's so good why do people seem so keen to sell? Yes. He stiffed me. Twice. More fool me. No love lost.
  9. Unless you have made extensive mods you'll probably find someone has a map that will work. If it doesn't get some logging gear and WBO sensors and 'Roll your own' with Tunerpro. Sorry, I don't know who is 'Good' in the US but I know a charlatan when I see one.
  10. Or you could find someone who knows what he's doing.
  11. I made Jude a pair of earrings out of a pair. Sadly they are too heavy to wear really! If you'd like one to use as a 'Prince Albert' I'll happily send you a few. Just don't post pics eh?
  12. Yup. Also the oil that came out of it, (And other bikes with these things fitted.) always stinks so heavily of fuel it's hardly oil any more. When 8V's eat their tappets one of the first signs is blackening of the oil. It doesn't stink of fuel though, a bit more 'Burnt' than you would expect but it doesn't smell fuelly though. Heavily contaminated oil also 'Feels' different if you rub it between your fingers. Believe me, I've seen it many times now. It's not just a random sample of one! Pete
  13. Back on topic. We have a Griso in at the moment for rollerisation. It's been running a finbau forge O2 sensor fooler. 27,000 km and the tappets are some of the worst we've seen and the camchains are utterly rooted. Tops of the pistons are washed pretty clean so it's rings are history too. Why people fit these bits of shit is just beyond me.
  14. 60's good but to be expected with cold oil. The OPRV crack pressure is somewhere around 60 so it's working. When it's warm you'll find at idle it's really low but as long as it doesn't drop below about 40 when you're motoring in hot weather you'll be fine. pete
  15. Yeah, sorry if I seemed a bit vehement in my response, it wasn't meant to be an attack on you Ray but after twelve years of dealing with W5AM bikes that have had these 'Simple fixes' used on them I know that they can not only be ineffective but also downright damaging. All of these bits of shit work on the principle of 'Fooling' the ECU into delivering more fuel. Many of them, an example being the 'Fat Duc' product are a variable resistor that goes in between the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust and the ECU. This supposedly 'Tricks' the ECU into thinking that the engine is running lean and adjusts the parameters in the closed loop area of the map to make the injector pulse with longer. The problem is that what it really does is simply confuse the ECU and it can end up going into a tailspin where it adds far, far too much fuel. It then recognises there is a problem and throws up a 'Service' warning on the dash and drops the bike into 'Limp' mode. You can feel when this happens. It feels like arse! The overfuelling can also do substantial damage over time. The Mistral device is also simply an variable resistor only it goes between the air temperature sensor and the ECU. This is even more spectacularly useless. When initially installed it will create a rich condition, once again very crudely, but the problem is the O2 sensor will detect the rich condition and then, over a short period of time, will pull fuel out of the pulse width until it recognises the mix is what it thinks it should be. All these horrid little widgets tend to thrive because a.) People are wary or downright scared of Fuel Injection. And b.) People think they are a cheap and easy magic bullet. They are neither! The air temperature fooler device could be used to, very crudely, enriched the mixture if you download the map, open it with a tool like Tunerpro and turn the lambda function, (The O2 sensor input.) off and re-upload the modified map. The thing is you wouldn't want to. The common belief is that 'Modern bike's are mapped lean to meet emissions'. This is in fact the almost exact opposite of the truth. Most maps are rich and then rely on the lambda input to pull fuel out of the map to meet the emissions target. If you turn the lambda off in most of the map the very last thing you want to do is put more fuel in! The other thing is if you are going to turn the lambda off you have to read the map, modify it and re-upload it. If you are going to do that why not just get, (Or build.) a decent map for your bike and upload it? All you need is Guzzidiag, Reader and Writer, two cables and a beater laptop! The map will probably be cheaper than one of these shitty widgets and you need to have the cables and laptop for tuning the bike anyway. Sorry, I didn't mean to jump down Ray's throat but these things, and the people who spruik them, really piss me off. Pete
  16. No they don't. You may initially see the bike behave differently but the W5AM controller simply trims around it in a short period.
  17. I have to say that I wouldn't put a chair on either a Spiney or a CARC bike. They simply aren't designed for it and I'd be worried about something breaking. There are also a host of fitment problems. A Cali is a far more suitable sidecar tug. That's why I'm using one for mine. Pete
  18. I've got a twin plate assembly hanging around if you're interested.
  19. Yes it will, but only until the fluid in the now 'Closed' system heats up. Then, not being able to bleed back to the reservoir due to the priming port being blocked by the master cylinder piston the expansion caused by the heat can only make one thing move. That's the piston in the slave cylinder which will preload the release mechanism making the clutch slip and eventually, if the situation isn't rectified, burn out.
  20. It's a cable system with two adjustment points. One at the handlebar lever. One on the arm on the back of the box. Your understanding of the workings of the hydraulic system is a bit off too. While it is possible to 'Close' the system causing problems due to heat it won't pump up like a hydraulic jack.
  21. Yup. User code which is five numeral is programmed by the owner and stored in the dash. It's not the lock tumblers that prevent the bike starting, it's the dash logic. If the dash doesn't recognise the chip it will ask for the user code before unlocking the start up protocols. Don't know the code? It ain't gunna start. Pete
  22. As Chuck says, Mark is a top bloke but the last two times I've visited I sorted a Griso and a Cali EV with fueling issues because he just refused to countenance working on FI. (Shrug?) He is what he is. pete
  23. No bevel gears on Parilla. Hi-Cam design with cam driven by a gear train, one of which was a fibre gear.
  24. There are all sorts of sets, or there used to be. I've had long arguments with a lot of people who claim that one or other manufacturer's gears are good and all the rest are crap but in my experience they are all crap, untrustworthy and I wouldn't put them in my two stroke lawnmower! As far as what pump is used? Most of those sets use the stock pump with bearings and a straight shaft. The gears used in the Hi-Cams which are also failure prone tend to shatter before they gall up and fall to pieces but this is more because the pumps don't have bearings supporting the driveshaft,the pump bodies are machined with poor tolerances and the shaft and it's attached gear flop about until the gear shatters. Engines that get a lucky good set of gears and pump seem to last a long time but Guzzi use some weird toothform that hasn't been used by anyone else since Noah was building the windlass's for the Ark! Whether that is relevant though I have no idea? If I had an early Hi-Cam though I'd piss the gears off and go to a well tensioned chain. Pete
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