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Found 10 results

  1. Hello, Ik have a Scura in 2009 they replaced the cluth for a GU01080140, but now my clutch is slipping. I'm trying to find a new Clutch disk GU01084440, but is is not longer availible. I called TLM (the importer in the Netherlands) and they only tell me to replace it for a double plate clutch, and it will set me back 2000,- euro. Now i have heard it is possible te replace de friction pads on te clutch disk, but to do this, i need to know how thick was the clutch plate. Can anyone tell me this? kind regards, Jorrit
  2. Ok so it's pretty obvious my clutch is worn. Looking for a rebuild kit for a basic 2000 v11 sport. Anyone got opinions? What additional maintenance should I do while in there? This bike has ~30Kmi on it. No current leaks or other issues but I'm open to suggestions.
  3. Hey all! I've been test riding my newly rebuilt and reinstalled engine, making sure everything is good before I get back to riding for fun. The good news is that everything seems fine with the engine. I've come across something interesting with the transmission, however. Riding around at slow speeds, everything is normal. When I am going faster, I have trouble down shifting. I haven't had a problem going from 2nd to 1st, but every gear above that seems to take a second or two before engaging. After shifting, I can hear the gears turning in the gearbox. Not grinding, mind you, but I can actually hear them turning. After a moment, it gets itself where it needs to be. This all happens while I'm still pulling the clutch. The first time I noticed it, I had already let off the clutch and the bike acted as if it was in neutral. So, I pulled the clutch again and tried shifting down, but nothing happened. Then, as I mentioned above, in a second or two, the gears engaged. Shifting up hasn't been an issue. Has anyone experienced this before? Could it be an issue with the clutch, or the transmission itself? I've done a decent amount of work on different engines, but I have never had to work on a transmission, so this is new territory for me. Thanks in advance!
  4. My VII has 65,000 miles on it and since around 40,000 miles the clutch splines have shown signs of wear. I changed the transmission input gear at 45K, clutch plates at 50K and finally the flywheel today at 65K. The flywheel splines had the most wear, but was the most expensive piece. I finally obtained a new one at a good price. The clutch plates would not fully disengage. They would always be somewhat bound up because the splines had offset grooves. So the poor shifting is now like new again. See attached pictures below.
  5. Hi Two years ago my gearbox decided to stop working so I got the bike down to the nearest workshop, where they changed something that broke, i can't remember what was now (a small cylindrical thingy with some cam-like surface on the top) and at the same time they changed the clutchplates. Workshop is something like 9 hours driving/riding away and after i rode it up again from the workshop (it worked seemingly okay on the ride up) i parked it in the garage and not used it since. However a mate has shown interest in it so i took it out today to let him have a spin, however the clutch doesnt seem to disengage at all. I can change gears a bit forcefully (at least to 1st and 2nd) but when i hold the lever in it's obvious that the bike is in gear and it doesnt roll as it should. Now is there some simple tricks i can look at a tweak myself or do you have to pull the engine/gearbox down and have a look inside? Any input will be appreciated
  6. Hi, I have a 2002 Le Mans Tenni and the clutch is slipping and getting worse by the day. The bike has only got 13 800 miles on the clock. Sadly, only 800 of those were done by me. There's no sign of oil at the gearbox/engine union. I tried the lever adjuster, but that didn't have any effect. I've had a quick trawl of the clutch replacement threads. I've changed a BMW clutch before, but I'm not too sure I'm up to doing this one. Can anyone give any insight on the availability of parts and the options for replacement. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I'm thinking it would be a case of replacing clutch friction plate and pressure plate. Am I correct in thinking like for like parts for the single plate clutch aren't available? Had a look and Gutsibits have a complete replacement RAM clutch, though I haven't checked on availability yet. Any wisdom appreciated. Simon
  7. Hey everyone, Hoping someone can help with some advice. My 2004 Coppa Italia has developed a strange clutch issue. It does not seem to want to fully disengage at stops. It will creep forward unless I hold the break on and sometimes this will cause it to stall. I tried for 3-4 days to bleed the system after replacing the clutch fluid. No improvement. Finally after a lot of frustration I took it to a dealer that I trust. Unfortunately it seems that they can't be completely sure of the problem until they tear the bike down and look at the internal clutch parts. This makes sense to me but, for this reason, they can only give me a range of $1,000 to $3,500 for a repair estimate. Has anyone else had similar issues and, if so, what was the resolutution? I understand that this bike is very rare with maybe less than 30 or 40 in the country. Does anyone have an idea of what it is worth (15K miles)? I am just trying to figure out my best course of action. As of now I am inclined to just wait until they have time to tear it down and keep my fingers crossed that it will be closer to 1K than 3.5K for repairs. Like I said, I trust these guys. I will say that I will probably not be purchasing another Moto Guzzi given the huge expense of what should be simple clutch replacement. Sucks since before this happened I had test ridden a California 1400 and was considering this as my next bike. Thanks, Mike
  8. Hi all I've just fitted a new set of clutch plates and intermediate plate to my 00 v11 sport, no problems there, plates where from Stein Dinse. Put the engine back in, clutch is solid at the lever. Engine out check everything is as it should be, top hat in clutch centre is present, push-rod is free, pulled slave cyl of, no apparent problems there. Piston is free, pushes out hydraulically and back by hand. Engine back in, still the same. It feels like the piston is reaching the end of the travel in the housing, before the push-rod can exert pressure on the clutch centre. If I wasn't using the original push-rod I would say it was too short. Has anyone else come across this problem, and if so how did they cure it? Cheers Gary
  9. Hi, My V11 Tenni recently destroyed the second clutch plate in as many years and I was wondering if anyone knew where I could lay my hands on a new clutch plate? Any help gladly accepted as twin clutch plate is a very expensive alternative... Thanks. Jools
  10. Can anyone help with this? I have a 2003 model v11 Le Mans which was first registered in 2006. It has covered 10000 miles from new and runs really well but being new to the bike I am a little worried about a noise that appears when I pull in the clutch at standstill with the engine running. It sounds like a worn thrust bearing, not quite a rumble but more of a metallic roughness. Once the bike has had a run and warmed up it is not so noticeable and of no concern when moving. The clutch feels fine in operation with no stiffness or slippage. It may be that this is all perfectly normal but being new to Guzzi,s I would appreciate some reassurance! I absolutely love the bike and other than rebuilding the rear master cylinder which was seized have had no problems. Thank you for any suggestions, Jez
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