The Verdict Is In: Sasquatch Exists, Oil Filters Spin Off, And I'm

[Guest Gary Cheek]

So,the moral is don't 'hand tighten" UFI filters! I don't hand tighten, don't use UFI and don't worry about filters coming undone.

[Guest ratchethack]

So,the moral is don't 'hand tighten" UFI filters! I don't hand tighten, don't use UFI and don't worry about filters coming undone.

Gary, I'm with you. IMHO this is the best overall conclusion that can be made from all o' this:

 

SuperTech (Wally World) ST3614

Made by Champion Laboratories

98% single pass efficiency

99% multi-pass efficiency

patent pending combo nitrile relief and anti-drainback valve

High quality, high reliability.

The high value choice

~$2 USD

 

Far more details than any reasonable person would ever want or need may be found here:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...;p=105211

 

[rocker59]

Gary, I'm with you. IMHO this is the best overall conclusion that can be made from all o' this:

 

SuperTech (Wally World) ST3614

Made by Champion Laboratories

98% single pass efficiency

99% multi-pass efficiency

patent pending combo nitrile relief and anti-drainback valve

High quality, high reliability.

The high value choice

~$2 USD

 

Far more details than any reasonable person would ever want or need may be found here:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...;p=105211

 

 

 

And how tight do you install that ST3614 ???

[docc]

And how tight do you install that ST3614 ???

 

 

Er,yeah, me and the Bonnie Blue just needs ta 'no.

[dlaing]

From the original thread of enlightenment (or was there a thread before that?):

Heard of another V11 Sport today dead because the filter backed off. That makes three in the last month and two in the last week that I personally know of. He, too, called needing rod shells and bolts. Guzzi is out of rod bearings and rod bolts. Coincidence? You decide.

 

Tighten the filter well, and watch your oil light. It is also considered wise by some to use a hose clamp to be double-dog sure it won't come loose without your blessing.

That hose clamp technique is lookin more appealing than ever.

Thanks for the tip!

An interesting test would be to hand tighten and set the hose clamp ahead of the locking point and see if it slips to the locking point.

[BrianG]

I hate oil filters that don't have a safety-wire lug!!

[dlaing]

I hate oil filters that don't have a safety-wire lug!!

Where do you attach the safety wire?

[Tom M]

Gary, I'm with you. IMHO this is the best overall conclusion that can be made from all o' this:

 

SuperTech (Wally World) ST3614

Made by Champion Laboratories

98% single pass efficiency

99% multi-pass efficiency

patent pending combo nitrile relief and anti-drainback valve

High quality, high reliability.

The high value choice

~$2 USD

 

Far more details than any reasonable person would ever want or need may be found here:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...;p=105211

 

 

FWIW I bought the SuperTech and visually compared it to the UFI that I removed from my bike. The ST filter was physically smaller, it's gasket was smaller in width, and the steel at the top of the filter was thinner than the UFI. I didn't like it so I'm sticking with UFI until I find something better.

[Guest ratchethack]

FWIW I bought the SuperTech and visually compared it to the UFI that I removed from my bike. The ST filter was physically smaller, it's gasket was smaller in width, and the steel at the top of the filter was thinner than the UFI. . .

To each his own, Tom. It's a free market economy. Thankfully, we have more'n one choice available.

 

My comfort level is based on multiple extensive testing and the reputation of the manufacturer, but that's just me. If you aren't comfortable with the size of the filter case (which as I recall is merely a few mm shorter than the UFI?), you might be interested to know that the ST 3614 is a very large filter for a twin cylinder motor, about the same size and element surface area as most oil filters spec'd for 4 and some 6 cylinder car motors of beyond double the V11's displacement. The ST 3614 is a HUGE filter for this motor, and as long as it tests as well as it does, I wouldn't much care if it's half the size it is, but again -- that's just me.

 

IMHO the gasket can be any width at all as long as it tests with zero gasket failures, as the ST 3614 did in every test I've read -- unlike several others, which failed in testing, and which may or may not have had wider gaskets. Again -- as far as I'm concerned, according to testing results, width of the gasket, thickness, material, and Shore A scale on the durometer measurements would be irrelevant compared to testing results and reputation of mfgr.

 

The ST 3614 is also constructed with case sheet metal (NOT flange or internal sheet metal!) of half the thickness of a few (not all!) of its competitors. Many other filters have the same gauge case. But if this is important to you, it might be another reason to avoid using it. This wasn't important to me. Now if I were installing a filter on the exterior of construction equipment, where it carried a risk of being bashed by heavy gear, I might opt for a filter with a heavier-gauge case, such as the ones manufactured for such applications. I figure on the Guzzi, it's about as safe in the sump as it can be from damage, unless a rod has let go, in which case any fragments that might hit it directly would likely go thru it like a hot knife thru butter regardless of case gauge, and at that point the filter's the least of concern. It exceeded all pressure testing parameters in the tests I found. Again, f'er Y'ers Truly, the proof is in the testing and the rep of the mfg'r.

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

. . . I didn't like it so I'm sticking with UFI until I find something better.

Tom, if you're basing your choice of filter on appearance alone, wot d'you suppose a "better" filter than the UFI might look like?

 

Enquiring minds (well, you know.)

[Guest ratchethack]

And how tight do you install that ST3614 ???

Rocker, I've never seen a spec on this for this filter. I've hand-tightened my ST 3614's the same way I've hand-tightened every car filter I've spun on f'er over 40 years, and I reckon that's a mighty heap o' filters.

 

This is just me, but I use "micro-accurate" wrist torque and stop twisting when the feedback resistance starts to spike up exponentially, and/or when I figure it's approaching (but not exceeding!) the torque point where I'm likely to hafta use a strap wrench, punched-thru screwdriver, chisel, or finally dynamite to git 'er off. At this point, I figure over-torquing has likely got into risky territory of deforming the base flange o' the filter -- and that ain't good.

 

I've never had a filter of any kind back loose this way, though I've regretted gettin' a few tighter than wot was evidently required.

 

But then, I've only ever used 2 UFI filters, and I won't be trying another.

 

BAA TJM, & YMMV.

[dlaing]

So,the moral is don't 'hand tighten" UFI filters! I don't hand tighten, don't use UFI and don't worry about filters coming undone.

 

I am with Gary and against Ratchet on the hand tightening issue.

I hand tighten mine and then snug it a little more with a wrench (not a torque meter)

 

I am not sure you are saying the UFI are bad, but, I don't think the filter brand makes much difference. Although I stay away from the Fram. Maybe if the filter sat in a guzzi stock room for ten years the seal and paper element might not be as good. Not that I trust Walmart any better on that, but I use the Walmart filters because they are cheap and the quality is good enough.

Maybe if there was evidence other than speculation, I might think the UFI worse than the Walmart filter, but I can only assume they work roughly the same.

[Tom M]

To each his own, Tom. It's a free market economy. Thankfully, we have more'n one choice available.

 

 

If you're basing your selection of filter on physical appearance alone, how d'you know wot to look for, and wot d'you suppose a "better" filter than the UFI might look like?

 

Enquiring minds (well, you know.)

 

I agree that it's great to have more than one filter available. Especially when my local dealer gets $22- for the UFI! (I mail ordered a few from MG cycle for about $8 ea)

 

The thinner metal that I observed on the ST was the area between the filter threads and the gasket. That seems like a very bad place to save a few cents to me. I didn't check case thickness but if it is half the UFI that's all the more reason for me to avoid it. Another factor for rejecting it was (if I recall correctly) it didn't fit in my Guzzi oil filter wrench that fits through the manhole cover in the oilpan.

 

A better filter to me would be one that meets or exceeds the UFI specs including the wrench flats, and isn't constructed with thinner steel that would be more likely to deform under high pressure, and is available locally for under $10. Granted the Guzzi will probably never generate enough pressure to blow the ST but it just seemed like it was designed to be as cheap to manufacture as possible, so I decided not to go with a $2 retail filter on my $12k+ (when new) bike.

 

[Dan M]

And how tight do you install that ST3614 ???

 

 

I just went in to my stock room and looked at a few filters. While I have no UFIs here at work, I do have about 70 filters on the shelf from 4 different brands. Every one has either on the box or printed on the filter itself, how to install. The routine is clean the surface, lubricate the gasket with clean oil. Tighten 3/4 - 1 full turn after the gasket makes contact with the surface. I have never seen a torque spec for a spin on filter. The issue is not by hand or by tool but how far you turn it. If you can get a full turn by hand it is not likely to loosen. The hose clamp is good insurance if you loose sleep over it. If you are installing a filter through the access hole then you better use a tool because you will not get a full turn by hand.

[Guest ratchethack]

I agree that it's great to have more than one filter available. Especially when my local dealer gets $22- for the UFI! (I mail ordered a few from MG cycle for about $8 ea)

Yep, a 10X+ superior price point ST/UFI don't hurt, either (see link above f'er comment on economy of scale). This is just me, but price has never been on the criteria list I use f'er filter selection, and I'd never use either a HIGH PRICE or a LOW PRICE alone as an indicator of either quality OR value on a high-volume, "consumer packaged goods" commodity consumable. YMMV.

 

FYI - I have a billet filter wrench for UFI filters that was part o' the deal on my Guzzi. After switching over to ST 3614's, I've no use f'er it, but I reckon I'll keep it in case Champion Labs gets sold off by the Carlyle Group and Kim Jong Il and his boys start makin' em at gunpoint in the People's Paradise o' North Korea.

 

I found a 14-flute filter socket for the ST 3614 at Kragen Auto Parts for I think $2.99 USD, if memory serves. Works er, well.......like a Champ.

[badmotogoozer]

Ratchet - you are talking out both sides of your mouth again.

 

In post 31 Gary states the moral of the story is "don't hand tighten". In post 32 you are quick to agree with him. Then in post 40 you state that you hand tighten yours and will continue to do so, while once again pushing your WallFart shite. We get it. There is a $2 option.

 

Your sheeple are going to be confused by your flip-flopping. How ever will they get through their next oil change without a firm position from you on hand tightening. Better write a 1000 word essay.

 

Me, I'll spend my $2 on a hose clamp. Might even be able to get two.

 

Rj