greasing the universal joint

[Guest h8chains]

I'm glad Tom M. revisited this thread. I will be doing mine this weekend while everyone else watch the Superbowl.

 

Good info, thanks to you guys.

[O2 V11]

This is what I use to grease the front grease nipple. I do this whenever I have my wheel and bevel box off for a tyre change. It usually only takes me a couple of attempts to clip the fitting onto the nipple. Two or three pumps later the job is all done. The flexible hose ends up very kinked but it works every time.

Rob

 

[richard100t]

This is what I use to grease the front grease nipple. I do this whenever I have my wheel and bevel box off for a tyre change. It usually only takes me a couple of attempts to clip the fitting onto the nipple. Two or three pumps later the job is all done. The flexible hose ends up very kinked but it works every time.

Rob

 

I have the same flex hose setup, but I ground the grease fitting down as far as I could on a grinding wheel to make it an easier fit. Does anyone else have fun trying to get the darn grease fitting back off once the front joint is full & expands outward?

[Guest Phil_P]

Does anyone else have fun trying to get the darn grease fitting back off once the front joint is full & expands outward?

 

Oh yes

[Lamedog]

In my extremely recent experience, I would offer that it really is not a big job to pull the rear wheel, drop the swingarm and properly lube and exercise the front U joint. The back end can be done easily enough, but (in my experience), it is altogether too easy to think your doing a good job on the front when it may be otherwise.

 

Next time you change the tire, pull the swingarm, remove the protective collar and really, really, lube the joint. The advantages over trying this in situ is that you can exercise the bearings enough to move them more thoroughly. Otherwise these guys spend their life wiggling forth-to-back a bit a few degrees grinding in a dried mucus grease bed. While your at it you can truly clean the back of the engine including the oil breather, bleed the clutch, and fit a deflector plate to the swingarm to prevent the whole from immediately getting dirty again.

 

Oh, and you may save yourself $300 to $700 bucks and a whole lot of hassle. Don't ask how I know.

[Jose Paulo]

There are one nipple on bevel box and two on the gear box ( like manual, page 124 greasing the shaft, fig. 38), or its is inverted like my V11?

[Guest frankdugo]

recomend the advisement of richard 100t;grind down the grease gun fitting!on my paticular bike oov11s it can not be accomplished any other way.by the way does anyone know where a 45 degree end fitting can be found?

[Tom M]

recomend the advisement of richard 100t;grind down the grease gun fitting!on my paticular bike oov11s it can not be accomplished any other way.by the way does anyone know where a 45 degree end fitting can be found?

 

See the bottom of page 2 Frank. It's an adjustable tip that will go to 45 degrees and beyond and you don't have to grind it to get to the front zerk. I tried a 45 deg end from Autozone, it didn't work on that particular zerk.

[Guest frankdugo]

thanks tom! am sure getting old-thought i was looking at that useless needle fitting from sears. you also reminded me of all the fun i had the first time the clutch was bled. -thumbs-up!

[Lamedog]

There are one nipple on bevel box and two on the gear box ( like manual, page 124 greasing the shaft, fig. 38), or its is inverted like my V11?

 

Jose, I was hoping someone would step and put things right, but I'll tell you what I have found. The on-line parts manual I typically use is backwards of my bike. The shop manual has it correct. The shorter piece with two grease fittings connects to the bevel drive. The longer bit with one grease fitting to the tranny. There is much to be frustrated about with the shop manual however. It is vastly conservative in its recommendation to replace the shaft at 20,000k. Just grease it really well, being cautious to do it slowly so as to preserve the seals.

[Jose Paulo]

Jose, I was hoping someone would step and put things right, but I'll tell you what I have found. The on-line parts manual I typically use is backwards of my bike. The shop manual has it correct. The shorter piece with two grease fittings connects to the bevel drive. The longer bit with one grease fitting to the tranny. There is much to be frustrated about with the shop manual however. It is vastly conservative in its recommendation to replace the shaft at 20,000k. Just grease it really well, being cautious to do it slowly so as to preserve the seals.

 

 

 

Thanks

you can see my v11 on

[antonio carroccio]

Jose,

 

this V11 is not running very well, is it?

[Jose Paulo]

Jose,

 

this V11 is not running very well, is it?

 

I bought it a few days. It have a accident( head guard, brake lever, right side, no mufles).

 

Sorry, I dont understand " running very well". I am not running yet. I am from Brazil. My english is not good.

 

Is the first time that I see a Guzzi. Great Machine

[tmcafe]

I bought it a few days. It have a accident( head guard, brake lever, right side, no mufles).

 

Sorry, I dont understand " running very well". I am not running yet. I am from Brazil. My english is not good.

 

Is the first time that I see a Guzzi. Great Machine

Paulo, he wanted to say that the engine does not work well (O motor agreste, nao bom som; eu nao falo portugues )Did you check the spark plug and cable on the side of the bike that fell/crashed?

[leafman60]

You dont need to remove the rear wheel to grease the front u joint. Turn the grease fitting on the u joint to the top position. Get a hinged grease gun fitting. Put it at about 45 degrees and come into the u joint from the rear of the bike along the top of the driveshaft. It will mate up and snap right on. The whole thing takes maybe a minute. Earlier posts go over this.