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Light forged wheels


BrianG

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My forum search reveals that the search for the holy grail of lighter wheels for the MG V-11 fizzled out in about 2004.

 

Has anyone found anything suitable in the interim? Something with the cush-drive rear wheel?

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PVM still lists our bike for their wheels.

Average weight (not Guzzi weight) - "10Y" spoke Forged Aluminum

Front - 3.5" x 17" = 8.25lb

Rear - crush drive w/sprocket carrier - 6.0" x 17" = 13.5lb

 

Beautiful wheels.

I wish they cost less.

I have to write that darn Santa a letter :xmas:

 

Alpina spoked wheels are pretty, too, but not forged, and the weight savings are apparently not as great.

Alpina

Weight for complete front wheel : 5,49 Kg

Weight for complete rear wheel : 7,5 Kg

 

Anybody know the weight of the stock wheels?

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Weight of wheels is hard to compare, manufacturers often only do the naked wheel, no bearings/spacers, niot ready to mount.

 

My pvm set is 5 kg lighter then original v11 3,5-5,5 wheels. 1.5 in front, 3.5 rear. Weighted difference ready to mount.

 

In alu, I think the forged g&b wheels are the lightest, but no cush. But the are no longer available.

The cush in the pvm isn't light. But noone else has them.

To enhance driving, the front wheel does it all, rear isn't what you feel.

 

The mgs01 wheels don't look bad and have a cush drive. But the price guzzi asks is double from pvm. For that money a set carbon bst can be bought too.

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My forum search reveals that the search for the holy grail of lighter wheels for the MG V-11 fizzled out in about 2004.

 

Has anyone found anything suitable in the interim? Something with the cush-drive rear wheel?

 

 

I've been looking for awhile. PVM shows coverage on a few of their lines but when contacting EMA (the US distributor), I was told none are available. I was awaiting availability the Alpina's from Rossopuro but when they became available the price was substantially higher than their original quote and the weight seems to be up near the stock wheels although nobody seems to have hard numbers. Now they are selling to US without VAT but the weak dollar offsets the savings. I can't justify the cost just for bling. There has to be a weight advantage.

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My pvm set is 5 kg lighter then original v11 3,5-5,5 wheels. 1.5 in front, 3.5 rear. Weighted difference ready to mount.

...

To enhance driving, the front wheel does it all, rear isn't what you feel.

 

(emphasis added)

 

That may be true for you Paul; I get the feeling that your awesome 6spd HiCam is mostly a track bike, but here in So. Cal. & anywhere else that someone is going to ride long stretches of highway w/ expansion joints every 10 or 20 ft ["corduroy roads" as I call'em], that 3.5kg off the rear wheel is FAR & AWAY more important that the mere 1.5kg off the front! Less unsprung wt. on the rear driveline means the hammering from the freeway expansion joints is decreased, as the wheel is better able to follow the square-edged bumps. For that reason alone, anyone doing substantial touring would want to look into at least getting the rear PVM, if at all possible.

 

On a reread, I think Paul may have meant "To enhance handling, the front does it all..." - the subtle difference in connotation btw handling/driving in use would be hard for a non-native English speaker to detect. Heck, I can't even speak 'Murrican w/ all that much efficacy; I'm certainly not about to criticize Paul's excellent efforts! :thumbsup:

 

Thanks for the very valuable data point on the actual wt. differences btw the wheels, Paul!

 

:mg:

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For someone with workshop access, who can live without cush there is a cheap alternative.

 

Breaking has sets of b-one wheels, there come with brakerotors fitted, and cost het as set 1200-1300 euro. The rotors have a different mounting so aren't interchangeble with anything. So don't think, get the wheels, sell the rotors to have the wheels cheaper.

 

I don't have weights, but they seem on par with what is mounted in todays japanese bikes. Lot of track guys buy them here as second wheelset.

 

 

And Skeeve, is driving just going forward in a straight line? Or can there be some corner in there?

 

What is a big difference is, when at speed say from 80km up, changing just a little from where you were going is so much easier.

 

 

11oosport5rg0.jpg

 

11oosport1ci4.jpg

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And Skeeve, is driving just going forward in a straight line? Or can there be some corner in there?

 

The terms are closely related, but "handling" is specifically about ease of changing direction, response, liveliness, feel, where "driving" is all about progress, forward motion, being the pilot. Hard for me to even explain it, w/o resorting to a dictionary, which even then may not have a sufficiently different set of definitions. Am I clear enough in my explanation?

 

What is a big difference is, when at speed say from 80km up, changing just a little from where you were going is so much easier.

 

This is definitely "handling!" :)

 

Ride on!

:mg:

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