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The MyECU thread


raz

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Ivan, what air pressure does the Optimizer report in its Barometric menu? You have wierd values in your VDSTS logs. 1482 mmHg is 1976 mBar and that is unnatural. It should be about 1050 and below, typically about 1000. And lower at higher altitude.

 

I'm not sure but this could make the MyECU compensate (enrichen) wildly, for what is probably a bad sensor. The commercial ECU's often stop correcting outside a narrow span. This makes them perform bad on high altitudes but is safer if the sensor goes bad. Like in this case, maybe.

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...the ECUControl program should be able to output a log file while running, so we don't need HyperTerminal. That way we also wouldn't have to choose between controlling and logging...

 

What do you have in mind? Controling and logging while you have the bike standing in the garage or logging and controling while driving. Sounds a bit like "have a drink, have a ride...(Mungo Jerry, btw.)" ^^

 

It should be mentioned that you've to load as well the matching map to your logfile. Otherwise you'll get nothing. Maybe that's why Control says 'intuitively' "open file" again. Load dump - load map - save log, if I remember right. You've tried that before?

 

(edit: it's 'load map - load dump - save parse file'. The "open file" is the same as "press start to shut down Windows" :) )

 

Generally I wouldn't overstress the Log thing. If all else has failed - ok, but keep in mind: one unexpected bump and you've lost everything to a nice and squeeky headcrash :(

 

Hubert

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It should be mentioned that you've to load as well the matching map to your logfile. Otherwise you'll get nothing. Maybe that's why Control says 'intuitively' "open file" again. Load dump - load map - save log, if I remember right. You've tried that before?

 

Generally I wouldn't overstress the Log thing. If all else has failed - ok, but keep in mind: one unexpected bump and you've lost all to a nice and squeeky headcrash :(

Ah, you are right. Almost. First load map (from file or ECU) like you were to edit it, then click ECU Diagnostics to load a dump file, which will pop up the "open file" that really means "save parsed file".

 

In this case a log file will say more than a thousand words - because there are 2500 kms or so between me and Ivan ;)

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Ivan, what air pressure does the Optimizer report in its Barometric menu? You have wierd values in your VDSTS logs. 1482 mmHg is 1976 mBar and that is unnatural. It should be about 1050 and below, typically about 1000. And lower at higher altitude.

 

I'm not sure but this could make the MyECU compensate (enrichen) wildly, for what is probably a bad sensor. The commercial ECU's often stop correcting outside a narrow span. This makes them perform bad on high altitudes but is safer if the sensor goes bad. Like in this case, maybe.

 

 

Optimiser report a realistic pressure,is a problem with a VDST, the OEM sensor is too sensible,Rimini is at zero from sea and the hill around 400-700 meters,the value change too much and MyEcu+OEM pressure sensor work well,i think i found the problem idle to WOT in a InjAdv map.......at high RPM injection time is critical,i thin need to spend more time in this part of map for be a better results...

The OEM is sensible to a weather changes too much!

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For handle better the maps is a nice idea to use a spreadsheet with a 3D graphical,is too easy found a spike and hole in the map...

Search for "office open organization" a really free suite for office and powerful software for handling our maps.

Simply add a comma and delete the space in the map value,save this on CSV file (can help you"CSVed" another free softw)and import!!!!

I don't have an image of my 3D map to show,but belive me,is more,more easy handling map in this way....

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I have not had the chance to really ride and test my maps. But the map I originally got from Cliff was unusable. Period.

 

I used Raz's and Pasotib's maps, thanks for posting it by the way!!! You save me much trial and error. At least got me running. So serious tuning later I have a decent map, with a few oddities still, but time will solve those.

 

Welcome to the fourm Kadavere!! Your posts are help full and I LOVE the bar graph!!!! Very slick(good) As you have found out this is the place for real assistance. I wish I had more to contribute. Best of luck.

 

Hello! tanks,in this forum i found a true inspirations,tips and tricks for improve My work.....

The bargraph is a really helpful tool....

I think to spend time for a schematic with a "clock" like gauge,more friendly in a Guzzi bike,more than a led.

 

Ivan

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Ok,better of this tonight i can able to make,maybe i'm too tired,but if someboby have time to spend this is the results..i know,is not a masterpiece but look nice.

It is not very meaningful to us unless you tell exactly what it is. Is it the result of looking at your map in 3D graphs and fixing spikes and holes? That's fine but remember that some minor spikes and holes are natural, caused by harmonics in intake and exhaust. So even if this turns out a proper step in your journey, the final map is never made in a spreadsheet.

 

Try it and tell us the result!

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Note that the map says 4500 μs, that is 4.5 ms. I know you knew that if you thought about it, 4500 ms is 4.5 seconds!

 

Oops... :blush:

 

 

As I understand it (I may be wrong), while cranking you get 12 ms, period. After engine is running on its own, you'll get the map value plus a 60% start boost that decays over 20 seconds. Plus the usual oil and air temp boosts.

 

From Owners Manual: This table is very important in starting the bike. While the RPM is less than the first column ( 500 RPM ), ie when turning on the starter motor, the Prime table is used to determine the amount of fuel.

And that is 12ms at 20 degrees, is that what you mean, raz?

And Air T & Oil T are only compensations when the engine has started?

 

 

What I`m getting at here is when someone has problems w starting, we all understand what parameters in the map that affects just that.

 

 

 

Some more not fully clarified thing w starting:

 

I also found that mine starts better without any crank boost (all set to 0) and the fast idle only on 1/3rd to 1/2 way, so it may be that my map is still needs work in this area ?

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Really, I always thought that with starting is dealt somewhere else in the map file, not in the InjDur matrix.

 

I thought SparkAdvance while starting is this:

-------------------

# TDCWhileCranking=1 will fire the spark at TDC

# TDCWhileCranking=0 will fire with advance from the map

 

MyECU Cfg TDCWhileCranking=1

-------------------

 

If so, you should set the spark advance back to 10 or even 12 or 15 degrees in the 500 column. It helps to stabilise idle.

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It is not very meaningful to us unless you tell exactly what it is. Is it the result of looking at your map in 3D graphs and fixing spikes and holes? That's fine but remember that some minor spikes and holes are natural, caused by harmonics in intake and exhaust. So even if this turns out a proper step in your journey, the final map is never made in a spreadsheet.

 

Try it and tell us the result!

Yes,this is what i build in a mixed work,street in a closed loop and computer at home,is based on the map i receive from Cliff,round the spikes and close the hole,polish the notch,sure a little spike is acceptable but some look like a needle!!!obviously need more time for have a better map,but with this the bike is more drivable than the original map, this almost unusable on my bike.....I see a ducati racing injection map displayed on a tuning computer workstation...look like a desert dunes,no spikes no hole,only a curves.Ok,a california is not a bike for racing :D ,but i think a map to look like a mountain postcard is not healty for the motor.Surely is impossible to build an entire map with a spreadsheet,the last word is from the street.See a map in a form of reticle and see in 3D is too different,if you have an hole on a delivery power with 3D you immediately find and change,in a reticle need much effort,at least for me!

Every professional software for tuning have a 3D viewer-editor,EcuControl is not provided,with"OooCalc"i have! ;)

Is only a my idea to share with all.

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Sure, there is nothing wrong with it as long as you know the limits. The 3D graph is the only way I know to actually see the whole map at once and understand it. And if you're lucky this map will turn out pretty good and later closed loop can easily fix the little details.

 

I use OpenOffice and I haven't yet found the perfect 3D graph for displaying maps. They usually end up with some axis in a bad scale and I can't find how to set it manually. I think MS Excel is better in that aspect, or maybe it's just me being impatient.

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From Owners Manual: This table is very important in starting the bike. While the RPM is less than the first column ( 500 RPM ), ie when turning on the starter motor, the Prime table is used to determine the amount of fuel.

And that is 12ms at 20 degrees, is that what you mean, raz?

And Air T & Oil T are only compensations when the engine has started?

 

What I`m getting at here is when someone has problems w starting, we all understand what parameters in the map that affects just that.

That is what I meant but it is just a guess based on the fact that the 12 ms come from a temperature indexed table already (I'm guessing oil temp), and 12 ms is so rich anyway so five percent more or less probably wont matter.

 

Anyway your quote from the manual is something I have overlooked, I have ignored the 500 rpm row completely, thinking it's "cranking until it's idling" while in fact the 500 rpm cell will be used more or less in between. My map has 5 degrees advance at 500 rpm, maybe I should lower it even more to get rid of those back kicks.

 

You are right we should try to establish what all parameters do. Now that Cliff has found us I hope he'll chime in!

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Yes,this is what i build in a mixed work,street in a closed loop and computer at home,is based on the map i receive from Cliff,round the spikes and close the hole,polish the notch,sure a little spike is acceptable but some look like a needle!!!.....

 

That's a good practice, Ivan. I did a lot of work on my maps with excel. You find some points onroad, using the Optimiser, and then adjust the rest with excel. Why not. Spikes or holes have nothing to do in a good map (I've read the argument about harmonics or other things - I just don't need them in my map). Ofcourse it's not a linear slope from idle to WOT, it goes up and down, but no spikes and no holes please.

 

I think you're on a good way, Ivan. Stick to it. And start optimising on the lean side. Running the engine lean (reasonable) is not a dangerous thing and smoothing the map out is much easier this way.

 

What Cliff told me was: start at a comfortable cell, maybe around 4000, below half throttle or so (120 km/h) and then correct the cells around this starting point (rolling it out like a pizza pasta ;) ) With the use of different gears, front and rear brake or, the best "tool", long straight mountain roads of different incline you'll find a very solid map in at least one hour or so.

 

Next step is excel for a counter check. Then put the Lambda target for all or at least most of the "transit" cells to Zero (open loop). This will make life much easier for the ecu and this way it does greatly improve the response behaviour of the whole thing (no diverted correction factors). I, for myself, know that lean cells are responsive, the rich ones are just lazy and do the plugs no good. Your target should be a consumption very well below 6l /100km, btw :) If I stick to our speed limits of 100km/h and below I'm coming well under 5l/100km every time. Nevertheless I prefer 5.4 ;)

 

Hubert

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Not so hard if I use the formulas you gave me, hope that is OK.

 

 

HOW TO CONVERT TPS BREAKS IN DEGREES TO MyECU VALUES:

 

The older nonlinear TPS is actually just 2way linear like this black graph below (red is a newer type):

 

tps.gif

 

I totally overread this posting. What is the newer TPS the red line shows - is it on a Guzzi? What type of TPS is used with the P8 ecus?

 

Thanks

 

Hubert

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