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The MyECU thread


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Just for peace of mind, can you check with a timing light that the TDC is where the ECU thinks it is? I think it's odd that TDC ignition kicks back.

 

Missing pulse, is that anything like Revolution w/o ignition?

Missing pulse is for the 15M/16M ECUs that have one sensor wheel with a couple of teeths missing that shows phase, instead of separate speed and phase sensors.

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Greenmonster,

 

are you able to log the MyEcu? If so, could you post a logfile of your starting attempts? Alternatively, is your starter ok? You don't have a Valeo in your bike? Have you checked the battery voltage while you're pressing the starter button/while the starter is working?

 

Another check: if you're trained enough to jump start your bike (pushing or down hill), have you done so already, with your actual map? How does it behave then, does it start remarkably better if you jump start it ?

 

And finaly: is it engine temperature dependent? Same bad starting cold and hot?

 

Hubert

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Good suggestions.

 

Greenmonster, Is switch 3 off on your Ecu?

 

Kickbacks, suggest you need tdc=1 or the voltage is dipping too far.

Is your voltage booster on the ecu operating? Check the voltage on the right side of D17.

 

Try a battery tender before starting to see if that improves things.

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Working hard in garage, contemplating/appreciating all efforts. :) Some progress today, will get back when decent results.

 

Greenmonster, Is switch 3 off on your Ecu?

All switches are off, that is all switches are down to the 1-2-3-4-side.

I`ve had the first (O2-switch) on before today, is that correct (I want open loop)?

 

Battery is getting tired fr all these efforts, I`ll be back w results incl a fresh battery.

 

 

Thx all f chiming in! :thumbsup:

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Working hard in garage, contemplating/appreciating all efforts. :) Some progress today, will get back when decent results.

 

 

All switches are off, that is all switches are down to the 1-2-3-4-side.

I`ve had the first (O2-switch) on before today, is that correct (I want open loop)?

 

Battery is getting tired fr all these efforts, I`ll be back w results incl a fresh battery.

 

 

Thx all f chiming in! :thumbsup:

My friends 907 used to kick back against the sprag clutch so hard he had to replace it every 2 years :o .

His bike was standard (as far as we knew) and would often kick back and stall while cold if the fast idle wasn't fully on !!

The starting problem he had was probably because he left the bike stood for long periods and as you know the clock on Paso's will drain the battery, I think the crank speed was then too slow for the ign timing that was being used.

It may be that the starting problem and stalling while cold may have been related to a map issue,in fact another 907 owner advised him to try a different map(a new EPROM if I remember correctly ) as he claimed to have had the same issues cured by this, but the battery would seem most likely .

Charge or replace the battery, the problem is most likely due to that.

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Just for peace of mind, can you check with a timing light that the TDC is where the ECU thinks it is? I think it's odd that TDC ignition kicks back

 

Also find that strange, unfortunately I don`t have a timing light.

 

 

are you able to log the MyEcu? If so, could you post a logfile of your starting attempts?

Alternatively, is your starter ok? You don't have a Valeo in your bike?

Have you checked the battery voltage while you're pressing the starter button/while the starter is working?

Another check: if you're trained enough to jump start your bike (pushing or down hill), have you done so already, with your actual map? How does it behave then, does it start remarkably better if you jump start it ?

And finaly: is it engine temperature dependent? Same bad starting cold and hot?

 

No separate log equipment, would the log file from Ecucontrol be useful?

Starter is Nippon-Denso, cleaned & w fresh brushes.

Will check juice when starting, good idea.

Jump start real easy.

Kickbacks hot or cold.

 

 

Is your voltage booster on the ecu operating? Check the voltage on the right side of D17.

What value should I expect when measuring? Should I do it when attempting to start?

 

 

The starting problem he had was probably because he left the bike stood for long periods and as you know the clock on Paso's will drain the battery, I think the crank speed was then too slow for the ign timing that was being used.

 

Disconnected clock this spring.

Crank speed/inertia is the reason I`ve asked if the MyECU had Revolutions w/o firing at starting as option. A rev or two w/o ignition would help starting.

Thx f 907 story, pasotibbs, how are your kickback problem now?

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Disconnected clock this spring.

Crank speed/inertia is the reason I`ve asked if the MyECU had Revolutions w/o firing at starting as option. A rev or two w/o ignition would help starting.

Thx f 907 story, pasotibbs, how are your kickback problem now?

 

I went to the bike yesterday and even with a low battery it started without a kickback(in fact it started several times as I was too slow with the fast idle).

I charged the battery overnight and as I'm not at work today decided to warm both bikes up, again no problem in fact almost

better at starting than the Paso !!!! :D

 

Don't know why but it seems cured :huh2:

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....

Will check juice when starting, good idea.

Jump start real easy.

Kickbacks hot or cold.

.....

 

I'd say that's your problem. Stop messing with the map. Go for a sufficient battery. If jump starts are real easy then starts with an additionaly hooked car battery should give the same pleasant effect. And of course TDC=1. My bike insists on that.

 

This "several turns without ignition to gain inertia" idea in my eyes is not a very good one. It could work if your engine had a valve lifter and a good flywheel. Everything else was just wasted energy which you could seriously need to get a good spark instead.

 

Hubert

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Green monster. Just a long shot. What is your pickup clearance? If it is a bit on the big side or if your pickups are week it might miss a few of the targets when she is running on the starter due to the low RPM and low induced voltage. Try to reduce the clerarance.

 

I am running my monster on 0,4mm even if the manual says 0.8mm from memory to avoid some low rpm hickups

 

Jocvke......

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Just pretend it is an old British bike and park on a hill, or have 5 buddies push you to start, or onto the bike hauler.

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Green monster. Just a long shot. What is your pickup clearance? If it is a bit on the big side or if your pickups are week it might miss a few of the targets when she is running on the starter due to the low RPM and low induced voltage. Try to reduce the clerarance.

 

I am running my monster on 0,4mm even if the manual says 0.8mm from memory to avoid some low rpm hickups

 

Thx, will check that, will probably check my starter elements again soon....

 

 

 

Progress, several starts w/o kickbacks! :sun:

 

New battery, charged thoroughly w C-tec to full juice.

No significant difference.

Tried mapping, ended up w this: TDCWhileCranking=1, Priming 10-20-25-30C > 12-1010-9mS (thx luhbo & punch!).

Seemed good, frustrating that different setting didn`t alter starts significantly.

Altered idle lever so it has 17-1800 RPM when started, idle lever on full.

Together w juust a little throttle, almost kickback free start.

 

Volt meter on battery while starting, 3 starts was 10.80-10.56-10.80V while cranking.

Added small car battery charger, 5,5Ah.

Kickback free start several times in a row!

Measured V when starting w car charger: over 11V.

 

Finally some results, put C-tec back on f charging to full.

A few :bier: , fully charged and several starts again w/o kickbacks! :D

 

 

So, I obviously need very good juice when starting.

All electric connections are checked, fuses, earth etc.

My battery will not always be perfectly charged so what do I do?

Buy a Odyssey battery w more cranking juice or can I alter something in MyECU?

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Is there anyone close to you than can loan you a GOOD battery. Batteries can pass EVERY test and still be not good.

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