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Nicholr

Cannot Bleed Clutch Slave

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13 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

There could well be a lot of air trapped at the top hose connection to the master cylinder. Unbolt the master and carefully with the cap off tilt it so the reservoir is higher than the banjo connection and jiggle the lever. By jiggle the lever I mean just that, dont attempt to actuate the lever just jiggle it in it's play region. You will see air bubbles come into the reservoir. You can also while you have it in this position tap the accessible clutch line with the handle of a screwdriver to break free any air bubbles. They will come into the reservoir once again.

Ciao

I'll definitely give that a try; key to the whole thing was disassembling the lever assembly so I could verify that the m/c piston was moving normally once I had confidence that it was working, I moved on the gravity technique mentioned above, and as you said, I tapped on the m/c and the slave as well, I think it helped but I will position the m/c as you describe and give it a go.

Now the good or bad depending, when I disassembled the clutch lever to verify the piston worked in the m/c, I lost the tiny plastic piston that contacts the clutch safety switch, I'm hoping that just means that I've bypassed the safety switch and it will start and run normally.

I had read a lot already on bypassing the clutch safety switch, I didn't realize I would do it by other methods,,lol

Tks

Kelly 

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Hmm, actually no. That interface button is used to close the switch so the starter will engage.

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52 minutes ago, docc said:

Hmm, actually no. That interface button is used to close the switch so the starter will engage.

Docc, that's not the right answer,lol.

I dropped and found that little piece once,,, I don't think the finding part is happening the second time,,lol

I'll look for that little piece again, but if I don't find it, what would be the best solution.

ie Trace the wires back to the bullet connectors on the left side of the tank, disconnect them, wire them together bypassing the clutch switch completely?

Tks

Kelly

 

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Seems it would not be difficult to fashion a little pusher from a scrap of Delrin or such. I would be concerned Nylon might swell from moisture exposure there.

I suppose lots of folks have defeated their clutch lock-out by shorting the connectors. Even with the Neutral Switch/ Neutral Relay functional, the bike could then start in gear with the sidestand up. Simple enough to keep the habit of holding the clutch for start-up.

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24 minutes ago, docc said:

Seems it would not be difficult to fashion a little pusher from a scrap of Delrin or such. I would be concerned Nylon might swell from moisture exposure there.

I suppose lots of folks have defeated their clutch lock-out by shorting the connectors. Even with the Neutral Switch/ Neutral Relay functional, the bike could then start in gear with the sidestand up. Simple enough to keep the habit of holding the clutch for start-up.

Hey Docc,    Tbh, when I thought I was simply bypassing the safety switch, I didn't look that hard for it the 2nd time, knowing that I needed that little bit to get the bike going, changed the urgency level of the search.

     I pulled out one of my bright LED work lights, and after crawling on the floor for 2 minutes, I now have that little black plug in ,my hand again,lol.

     I've read some of your posts on keeping that area clean and lubed, what would be appropriate, a little dab of silicon grease to lube it up and help hold it in place while I jam the lever and perch back together?

     Tks

      Kelly

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Sounds like a good plan. Doesn't take much grease to keep that together for assembly.

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