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160 vs 170


gsp0702

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The track take-offs I've seen are all played up. Sure they might still have tread, but the heat cycling has made them hard as nails, especially off at the edges. Trying to save a couple bucks on used condoms may not be in your best interests *wink*wink*. :o

 

While I have no input on tire sizing, take-offs I do.

 

Take-Offs are great if you know and trust who our are dealing with. Note: most race compunds will never make a good street tire, longevity stinks.

 

There is a big difference between 12 sprint laps and and "several" practice sessions. Heat cycles being the main issue. "Of course they were always keep on warmers...." Only buy take-offs from someone you know, trust, or can beat up (and I mean really give a shit kicking too). Just because there is still tread left does not mean it is worth anything (they are selling them for a reason right??).

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I found the Dunlop Sportmax Roadsmart to go about 20% longer than the same size Strada, running about 40 psi. Harder compound center.

 

The last tyre test in MOTORRAD put the Roadsmart even in front of the Michelins. Only when wet the Pilot Road was slightly better. Nevertheless I bought a 160 Pilot Road 2CT rear and a Pilot Sport 2CT for front. Nice combo, indeed. Gives this funny nailed on rails feeling.

 

Before that I had the Diablo Stradas several times, but they have a tendency to act quite strange towards the end of their life span. Which is not very long on top of that. And they're replaced by the Angel ST anyway.

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Guest ratchethack
. . .look for a decent used pair on the local equivalent to EBAY, being flogged of by trackday guys or racers. . . .

Andy, just to underscore some of the comments posted above, if you can't afford new tires, you likely can't afford a motorcycle. There's just no way to justify a cost savings here. Tires are your most important consumable. This is just me, but if I could find the right size, I'd pick a brand spankin' new Cheng Shin for $30 USD over a used-up race or DOT race tire every time, even if they were gratis. Best not be penny wise and pound foolish here, as they say. ;)

 

Dave at Canyon Chasers has some well chosen words of wisdom on the popular, but extremely dubious practice of recycling race tire take-offs on the road, see his full page of advice on what's most important to consider in choice of tires for the road here:

 

<a href="http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/tires.php" target="_blank">http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/tires.php</a>

 

EXERPT:

. . .The race tire is designed for the racetrack, hence the name and usually the red sticker or other marking on the sidewall of the tire. They are designed to be used two or three times before they are discarded. Even "DOT Race" tires are typically only good for two or three days of use. That equates to two or three heat cycles and two or three periods of outgassing before the chemical balance of the tire has changed so much that it is no longer the same tire. Also, race tires are designed to be able to carry more heat before the tire melts. This is to handle the extreme speeds, cornering velocities and higher abrasion characteristics of a race track. This means it also takes more time and more aggressive riding to get the tire to its optimum operating temperature. Race tires are awesome for the track rider. They allow the racer to get the most out of the tire, but at a cost (they don't last as long).

 

The street rider who uses race compound tires is simply wasting their money and taking unnecessary risks. Even the fastest street rider is probably not (and should not) be able to get the tire up to its optimum temperature to reap the benefits of the added traction. Street riders are forced to stop for stoplights, police officers and traffic in general. They are also a full-on idiot if they ride at 100-percent ability, as fast as they can, in a street environment. However, the race tire is still outgassing at the same rate it would if it were being used on the racetrack even though the tire will never reach operating temperature, and never achieve optimum levels of cohesion.

 

Street riders will, however, get a greater level of traction and more life out of a street tire that is designed to withstand hundreds of heat cycles and operate at a lower temperature. And in fact, most modern "sport-touring" tires will provide a better level of grip for 90% of all street riders than sportier counterparts. Only an elite few, and they are probably not reading this anyway, can use the full potential of a Michelin Pilot Power or Dunlop Qualifier. In fact, its quite amazing what skilled riders can do on modern sport-touring tires like the Michelin Pilot Road or Continetal Road Attacks - skilled riders can still drag knees around corners with these supposedly "hard" tires.

 

Some street riders feel that it is an advantage to buy "take-offs" from racers. Take-offs are the race compound tires (sometimes race slicks) a racer has used up. Rather than discard the tire, they sell them to street riders. Take-offs do a great job of impressing your friends by allowing them to assume you were able to thrash the outside edges of your tire with your amazing riding ability. But the reality is you may be riding on a tire that has plenty or tread left but is actually worn out or has very little grip left in it.

 

The moral of this story is not to be so afraid of riding on tires designed to last a bit longer. Honestly evaluate the type of riding you do and make your decision based on that information. If you mostly drone up and down the interstate on your way to work with an occasional weekend jaunt up the canyon, you probably don't need as much tire as the rider does lots of high-speed track days, and has never worn out the center of a tire. Most of us will never be able to over-ride a modern "sport-touring" tire during very spirited street riding unless we are using incorrect riding form and style. I have seen all of these touring-based tires on racetracks and on colder track days, the touring tires came up to temperature quicker and provided MORE grip than the race tires. So much so, that after a track session, the race tires were, literally, cold to the touch, while the touring tires were nice and warm. Plus, you get the huge benefit of not having to change tires more frequently than you change your oil.

 

But whatever you do, do not mix and match tires, particularly tires of different construction (radial vs. bias) and even tires of the same construction from two different manufacturers. You never know what handling result you will end up with. We realize that sometimes you have to do what you have to do, and when out on the road getting a flat tire means you run whatever tire you can find. So at the very least, avoid at all costs putting on a stickier/grippier rear tire than the front tire. To do otherwise and you could easily find yourself in a situation where the traction of the rear tire overwhelms the traction of the front tire.

Would a 160/60 fit onto my second series Ross Mandello? Will the smaller section make a discernible difference to the bikes hadling. Especially as I generally don't ride it like i stole it and i won't be hanging of it in corners.

Riders of RMs and Sports with 4.5" rear wheels (including Yours Truly) have unanimously (AFAIK) reported greatly improved handling and road manners with 160/60 rears, when replacing the OE issued and spec'd. 170/60's.

 

Hope this helps. Choose wisely & ride safely, my friend. :race:

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Thanks for all the comments, was never really keen on the take offs, so the bike goes in on saturday for a conti road attack, (160/60) I have had good experience with these on my last bike.

 

Cheers

 

Andy

 

:2c: I recently replaced a set of Road Attacks. I liked them but they wore out much faster than any of the other sport touring type tires that I've used on the V11. The shop owner who I buy tires from said he's heard that complaint a lot about those tires.

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