Kiwi_Roy Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Hi Guys, I have been helped out a lot by some of you recently so i thought i might be able to add the benefit of 40+ years electrical troubleshooting. To this end I took the schematic for my V11 and tried to show in semi ladder diagram fashion how the main wiring is arranged. Note: I completely ignored non-essential wiring, lights flashers etc and the complex wiring around the ECU. Those can be identified in different drawings, I just wanted to show the wiring I think most of the problems occur in. Please take a look and offer any comments, preferably in a marked up drawing scanned and sent back. Regards Kiwi_Roy Many thanks to Raz, Docc, Gstallons and any others who supplied valuable feedback from here or by PM Ok, i have the right files now April 27 2010 Sorry Guys I just noticed that my ECU Test Points dwg was out of date Please replace with this one May 12 2010 May 16th Update I recently discovered how important the headlight wiring is, without it the Tacho won't work and the charging stops so I updated the wiring as well showing how the regulator needs 12 volts. I changed the relay style so that it's consistent with the other drawings and arranged the same as in reality. The starter motor solenoid now shows the 2 coil arrangement. BTW, see Raz's headlight relay schematic about 16 posts down, I implemented this, works great. Regards Roy Test Point Layout May 10 2010.pdf ECU Test Points May 12 2010.pdf Guzzy_Wiring May 16 2010.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Excellent, Roy, really! Thank you. One question: I never understood how this diode after Relais 4 should work? Personally I would place it somewhere else and especially the other way round. I forgot to mention: I'd draw the neutral light in the same de-energised state as the rest of the wiring. Maybe this would make the function clearer. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Re: relay #4. Sometimes relays have a diode in parallel with the coil to cause the voltage spike to go to ground instead of back to the device that triggers the solenoid. This voltage spike can be as high as 5x the voltage applied. This voltage spike occurs when the device is turned off (or cycled) and the field is collapsed in the coil. The diode as drawn I am not sure what purpose it serves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Excellent, Roy, really! Thank you. One question: I never understood how this diode after Relais 4 should work? Personally I would place it somewhere else and especially the other way round. I forgot to mention: I'd draw the neutral light in the same de-energised state as the rest of the wiring. Maybe this would make the function clearer. Hubert My thoughts on it were to protect the ECU if someone were to inadvertently connect the battery backwards Your thoughts on the neutral light are noted It's almost impossible to get a schematic right first time through Thanks Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 I've seen plenty of examples of batteries hooked up backwards. There is no one component that fails every time a battery is hooked up backwards. I commend your first time wiring diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Guzzi diagram calls it the Safety Diode, it stops the ECU Relay picking up if the battery is backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Excellent, Roy! Carl Allison's schematics are very good too but harder to use for fault finding. And they wont fit on the computer screen without information loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 You missed the point. You don't need CA's schematics as long as you have an owners manual. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 You missed the point. You don't need CA's schematics as long as you have an owners manual. Hubert I don't know about V11's but the Sporti schematics from Guzzi are almost unreadable. They are downsized beyond the point of losing information so enlarging it doesn't help. Carl's are larger, better and with colours that helps tracking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Ok Guys, Heres my latest. I am not getting as much response as I thought. Please give your comments, good, bad or ugly Attachment removed, see first post in the string for latest - Roy May 18 Thanks Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldButNotDead Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 I am not getting as much response as I thought. Please give your comments, good, bad or ugly Freaking AWESOME? Exactly what I imagined myself doing, but was too bloody lazy? A good deed that will in all probability not go unpunished? Deserving of at least a few pints? Not as good as it could be, since I will need to print and laminate it myself? Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjor Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 I am not getting as much response as I thought. Please give your comments, good, bad or ugly OK, this is well worth commenting on: Most times when I have had an el-problem on one of my Guzzis, I draw a simplified diagram, -thus I have many spread around in my work shop. But NONE of them is as simple to follow as this one, and none so instructive and informative as yours. Thanks a lot, Roy! If the distance between Canada and Norway was smaller, I'd send my wife over to give you a hug... By the way; initiatives like this is among the things that makes this forum so genious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 OldButNotDead, Bjor, I have quite a bit more detail to add yet like wire colours, relay base and a couple of errors to fix. Later on I will tackle the lights and ECU wiring but as a seperate drawing. Can't promise a Norwegan version though. Glad you like it. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Thank you Roy, kindly draw up a stand alone headlight relay with ground line bypassing the steering head bearings. Maybe as an option page or some such. This has been done before, but your level of diagram is most appreciated. Dont worry about lack of response, electrical issues are someone elses until... then the light comes on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Thank you Roy, kindly draw up a stand alone headlight relay Yes, that's a project I want to do, I don't like the way headlight goes thru sooooo many contacts. I would also like to have it so the headlight doesn't come on as soon as you turn on the ignition. I saw somewhere someone suggesting two relays for High / Low beam. I will post how I added LEDs to the relay bases when I get time. I will be trying out an idea for offsetting the TPSensor shortly, that may be of interest also. Regards Roy Refer to the drawing from Raz 16-April-2010 under "Headlight Losses" topic, thats what I will be doing. His scheme gives the lamp 2 possible supplies, if the main fuse blows the diode will conduct and supply the lamp at a slightly reduced voltage. With this simple fix you could get up to 30% more light. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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