BRENTTODD 0 Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 To lazy to look and short on time what is the capisty of fluid for the trans and bevel drive. I should know but I forget thank and god speed Brent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twhitaker 5 Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 Don't hold me to it but I bellieve it's 850cc for the tranny and 250cc for the final drive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gstallons 767 Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 It doesn't matter about the capacity. Check it on 3 different occasions after you change it. You don't want ANY surprises. I know this guy that read his manual wrong on an Ambassador, and got 50 miles before destroying the rear drive from a lack (amount) of fluid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
docc 3,506 Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 Your profile doesn't say what year or model V11, but the six speeds are 850 ml and the bevel drive used with the six speed is 350 ml gear oil and 20 ml moly. The bevel drive is easy to overfill and overwhelm the seals (ask me how I know, er, no don't). Redline products seem popular and many would say that you can use heavyweight in the bevel box to full capacity with no additional moly. Older bevel boxes and the five speed apparently had a combined capacity of 1 liter (250/750) which seems pretty sensible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richard100t 4 Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 The transmission has a fluid level window. Add fluid until the window is at least half full or better when the bike is vertical. THE rear drive you can take the bolt out in the middle rear and fill at the top until fluid is coming out or close to coming out the hole or a little less, with the bike held vertical again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
docc 3,506 Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 The trouble with using the level plug is that fluid begins to ooze out a bit early and can lead to underfilling. I once measured a 20% difference between volume filling and the level plug method. That said, the level plug is certainly good to check after a fill to avoid overfilling. With the Redline product especially, so much oil remains clinging to the internals that refilling by volume will surely lead to excess volume and higher pressures. And leaks. If you fill slowly, and take some breaks to allow settling, all the while monitoring total volume added, the level plug can still be used effectively, but don't expect to just pour until it oozes and have a correct volume. Richardson noted this "cascading off the ring gear" phenomenon in Guzziology. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dhansen 1 Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 The transmission has a fluid level window. Add fluid until the window is at least half full or better when the bike is vertical. THE rear drive you can take the bolt out in the middle rear and fill at the top until fluid is coming out or close to coming out the hole or a little less, with the bike held vertical again. I did the middle rear plug method when I switched to Redline heavy. Gave it plenty of time to settle but still ended up puking starwberry milkshake out the vent in the top plug for months. Still does it a little after spirited rides. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziMoto 304 Posted June 11, 2010 Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 I use the manual as a guide for how much to put in but rely on the level plug, sight window, and dip stick for final say on how much is the right amount. And I am a fan of Redline Shockproof for the gearboxeand rear bevel box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gmc28 151 Posted Tuesday at 04:58 AM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 04:58 AM Was perusing some of this before heading out to shop one of these days soon to do the rear drive fluid on Red, as i'm thinking its time. no one seems to mention Richardsons notation that you raise the rear of the bike (block of wood) so the swingarm is level, as in horizontal to the ground, in addition the bike being level/upright. pretty sure thats what i did a few years ago on Goldie, but don't trust my memory. between my fuzzy memory, and then maybe some common sense, it does seem like the way to go, to get that middle rear plug at the right level (bike vertical, and swing arm horizontal), but help me stay on the straight & narrow path..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Solution Lucky Phil 1,906 Posted Tuesday at 07:26 AM Solution Report Share Posted Tuesday at 07:26 AM 1 hour ago, Gmc28 said: Was perusing some of this before heading out to shop one of these days soon to do the rear drive fluid on Red, as i'm thinking its time. no one seems to mention Richardsons notation that you raise the rear of the bike (block of wood) so the swingarm is level, as in horizontal to the ground, in addition the bike being level/upright. pretty sure thats what i did a few years ago on Goldie, but don't trust my memory. between my fuzzy memory, and then maybe some common sense, it does seem like the way to go, to get that middle rear plug at the right level (bike vertical, and swing arm horizontal), but help me stay on the straight & narrow path..... Not applicable to bikes with the floating bevel box, aka V11 and Daytona, Centauro, Sport 1100 etc. Ciao 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gmc28 151 Posted Tuesday at 02:59 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 02:59 PM many thanks Phil. then will grab the oil, find my special grease gun fitting, and get that italian tail end ready for summer. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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