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47 minutes ago, Chuck said:

The best windshield by far (IMHO) for the Tontis is the original Califia (?) fairing. The name escapes me at the moment. :oldgit:When I had the Jack-All as a solo bike, I could put the big hand on 90 and smoke a cigarette if I smoked. Yes, as Pete sez, they are as ugly as a bag of farty assholes, but pretty is as pretty does.

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God's teeth! If that thing was a baby it's mother would of strangled it at birth!

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Jan, The Calvin that belonged to me that then went to a friend and then now to another friend has now been brought back to me for a complete tune up. I did the valve adjust and a TPS set to

TPS setting, etc. is similar to the V11s. These Instructions are very helpful: http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html I have used Guzzidag for this too

Here is my defective u-joint (at only 38.5000 Km): I have bought my new one here: https://hmb-guzzi.de/Universal-joint-complete-with-shaft-Cali-from-2001-on This is the original pa

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1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:

Did you clear any faults before trying to change the CO + engine over 60 deg C

Ciao

      Iirc, I cleared one tps fault, that I attributed to me turning the tps minutes earlier while setting it to .157.

      The link to wg that Biesel posted, I had already printed out, but after reading it for the umpteenth time, I missed the little step of leaving the key/ignition on but turning off the kill switch when doing the changes.

        I had a very tough time getting guzzidiag to work smoothly for me, no matter how much I disabled virus ware/security settings etc, Windows 10 on my laptop kept shutting down and deleting the reader program, so when I finally got it connected and working right, I just jumped right into it.

        I was shocked how long it took to get the engine up to 60 degrees, but once it did, guzzidiag seemed like it was going to let me make the change and It looked so intuitive on the computer screen,  but I think I short stroked it and missed the kill switch step.

       Tks

       Kelly

     

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From the piece I have cutt off of my second windshield I have created my homemade "Laminar Lip".

20200625-183203.jpg 20200625-194459.jpg 20200625-193840.jpg

I will test this solution next week. The 3M Duo Lock pads should stay untouched for 48h if possible.
I must admit this looks ... strange...

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I just test rode the CalVin with my "homemade Laminar Lip" yesterday. The buffeting and the wind noise is a bit less but I could not feel a difference to my test-setup with tape.

20200629-184458.jpg 20200629-184513.jpg

 

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On 6/23/2020 at 8:51 AM, pete roper said:

God's teeth! If that thing was a baby it's mother would of strangled it at birth!

Ha, well I dunno... I kinda like it  ;)

 

Great and immensely helpful thread BTW.  I've had my eye on a CalVin for a few years.  Still not sure I'll pursue one, but they are a neat bike.

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 The opening around the headlight should allow air to flow to help equalize the pressure on the windscreen and keep buffeting down. Try moving the screen up if possible to allow more air in and re test. My $.02

       Paul B:bier:

  

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Hi all. This is my first post on the forum. My 2007 CalVin was a neglected beast when I obtained it two years ago. It had been stored outside, unused and uncovered for a long period in a damp, coastal climate. I love it, together with my 1100i sidecar combination. The CalVin has a frustrating rough-spot at about 2,000 to 2,150 rpm. At low speed, if I am in this band, it feels like the motor is trapped in a valley that it doesnt want to get out of. I can drive through it, but this involves dropping a gear to do it comfortably. I am mechanically/electrically weak. There are no Guzzi dealers in my country. Any advice would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

John.

 

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You could try reaching out to Mark at Griso.org I believe he's produced a pretty good Calvin map. 
 

I take it you've ensured the tune is correct? Balanced the TB's? Set the TPS correctly?

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Thanks, Pete. Thats way beyond my capabilities, unfortunately. I have just been made aware of a local(ish) bike mechanic who likes Guzzis, and I intend to approach him. I will put your suggestions to him, and any others that might arise. Many thanks.

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Cali1100i,       The CalVins were one of the bikes with the dissolving fuel lines inside the tank; usually that issue should have been addressed by now, but if it's been been neglected and just parked, it could be the source of fuel delivery grief.

     Make your mechanic aware that it may be an issue at play.

     It sounds like there may be a bit of corrosion, a good methodical clean up of wiring connections, grounds etc with deoxit and a dab of vaseline should help things in the long term.

     Good luck with it

     Kelly

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On 7/29/2020 at 12:55 AM, 80CX100 said:

Cali1100i,       The CalVins were one of the bikes with the dissolving fuel lines inside the tank; usually that issue should have been addressed by now, but if it's been been neglected and just parked, it could be the source of fuel delivery grief.

     Make your mechanic aware that it may be an issue at play.

     It sounds like there may be a bit of corrosion, a good methodical clean up of wiring connections, grounds etc with deoxit and a dab of vaseline should help things in the long term.

     Good luck with it

     Kelly

Thanks, Kelly.

Went on a 500 mile round-trip on it, shortly after getting it. Was about 70 miles out when I found it struggling to maintain 65 mph. Kept going. Last 100 miles of the outward journey struggled to maintain 40 mph on a motorway, and limped to my destination. Exhausted. Seven hours to cover 250 miles. Next day, tank off, fuel pump and filter out. Scavenged a drill bit and reamed it, spigot to spigot, to allow fuel to flow through it. Filter completely blocked with rust particles. Strained the remaining fuel through a dish-cloth into a cut down Coke bottle (because I had to, no spare fuel). Cleaned out the tank as best I could. Strained fuel back in. Performed like a sports-bike on the way home. I believed I aged 5 years on that return trip, thinking of rust particles getting into the injectors. Luckily I had some tools with me, due to past experiences with the Cali 1100i. It was an interesting weekend.

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5 hours ago, Cali1100i said:

Thanks, Kelly.

Went on a 500 mile round-trip on it, shortly after getting it. Was about 70 miles out when I found it struggling to maintain 65 mph. Kept going. Last 100 miles of the outward journey struggled to maintain 40 mph on a motorway, and limped to my destination. Exhausted. Seven hours to cover 250 miles. Next day, tank off, fuel pump and filter out. Scavenged a drill bit and reamed it, spigot to spigot, to allow fuel to flow through it. Filter completely blocked with rust particles. Strained the remaining fuel through a dish-cloth into a cut down Coke bottle (because I had to, no spare fuel). Cleaned out the tank as best I could. Strained fuel back in. Performed like a sports-bike on the way home. I believed I aged 5 years on that return trip, thinking of rust particles getting into the injectors. Luckily I had some tools with me, due to past experiences with the Cali 1100i. It was an interesting weekend.

Better you than me, that sounds ugly,,,  ;~) lol. 

Tbh, you've been further into that tank than I have; my bike already had the fuel line fix done by the PO when I got the bike. I've heard it's a bear of a job on a good day in your garage with proper tools, you did well to mcgyver your way home.

All that rust sounds bad, if the inside of the tank is rusty I've heard of guys putting something like screws or nuts and bolts in the tank, putting it in an old sleeping bag and stuffing it in the dryer with pillows all around it, tumbling it carefully and keep repositioning it.

How did the fuel lines from filter/pump look in your hands, soft punky/cracked or in good shape?

The original defective ones should be marked SAEJ30R9 or 30R7. The updated good lines resistant to being immersed in fuel should be marked SAE 30R10, I think suitable hose should be available locally.

Good luck

 

 

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Very little Ethanol in the petrol here, which I hear is the source of most of the fuel-line problems world-wide. The in-tank fuel-line in mine was a black concertina type heavy "plastic" and was factory fitted, judging by the metal clips used to secure it to the pump. And yes, it was a bitch of a job to do road-side. I had heard that the plastic connector from under the tank was a devil to disconnect, easy to break, and that there was a "knack" to disconnect it. Get it wrong and almost impossible to bodge a road-side repair. More art than science. It took hours. And it was only an "educated guess" that the filter was the problem. I was a happy camper when it ran. If you ever have to remove the pump/filter assembly, keep the cable-tie that secures the filter to the pump-body really loose. Work the assembly into the tank slowly and methodically and try to think in 3D. Once in, tighten the cable tie from outside the tank before bolting the mounting plate into position. Not a job I want to repeat road-side in a hurry. My mechanic, who is also a biker, advised putting an egg-cup full of motor oil into the tank ever so often, when its full of fuel, to inhibit rusting inside the tank.

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Here is a picture of a well-maintained, indoors-kept CaliVin tank inside....

20200612-110441.jpg

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