HaydnR Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 The owners manual states: "The torque of the nut «A» is 12 Kgm" 12 kilogram meter = 117.679 8 newton meter = 86.796 165 98 pound foot Where? Uploaded with ImageShack.us You are right about the wrong information in the workshop manual the info that I quoted is from the 2004 Owners manual image page 146 instruction page 148 (2001 manual p88/90, 2002 manual p136/138) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelpacket Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 The base # will give you the same dimension bearing. Read my post again. The prefix and or suffix characters describe tolerances and bearing speed specs, etc.... I understand what the suffix characters describe, and thank you for pointing that out for interested parties. I've sourced many an expensive BMW bearing from local bearing shops, with different suffixes, and ran without problems. The boys at MG Cycle sent me these, and given their reputation, I highly doubt they are in the habit of sending inferior bearings to their customers. I'll run these and see how they do. That said, it is a good note to make. Just because they fit, doesn't mean they will behave the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossi46 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 I was abit worried when I first read the post having had my rear wheel off recently-30 nm!!!!!!! f@~k me what have I done! I just checked the handbook and it states 12kgm(117nm) every bike I haved owned(ok not loads) the rear wheel has always been 100nm+ however I just looked in the workshop manual and it does say- as spotted above- 30 nm!! off to Silverstone tomorrow aswell!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossi46 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 forgot to add as for a stand try www.becker-technik.de still can't do the linky thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 I seem to recall you have to be very carefull with a washer on the drive side, if it slips out of alignment while you are putting things together it's possible to put side thrust on one of the bearings. Perhaps someone else will chime in on this. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VA Sean Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 I had an almost identical failure 2 weeks ago coming home from a Rally. My bike ('04 Coppa) has about 18,000 miles on it. EDIT: oh yeah, I bought the center stand from Moto International a couple years ago. it was very simple to install, it bolts right on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 forgot to add as for a stand try www.becker-technik.de still can't do the linky thing Here's the linky thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eas1rider Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Yep, same thing happened to me a couple of months back. Found the spacer to be about 1.6mm to short so was surprised the bearings lasted as long as they did. Machined up a new spacer, replaced bearings and everything happy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelpacket Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Yep, same thing happened to me a couple of months back. Found the spacer to be about 1.6mm to short so was surprised the bearings lasted as long as they did. Machined up a new spacer, replaced bearings and everything happy... Interesting. What size (length) should the spacer be? I've got a lathe and some aluminum stock, and I'd rather take it apart again and get the right size in, if I got a short spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 ...What size (length) should the spacer be? I've got a lathe and some aluminum stock, and I'd rather take it apart again and get the right size in, if I got a short spacer. I measured across faces of housings in hub & matched to that. Spacer might start out correct length but may be compressed when torquing axle. My understanding is wheel bearings should be C3 type which have slightly increased internal clearance. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 14k mine went, <_>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13294&st=0&p=144852&hl=bearings&fromsearch=1entry144852 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stefano Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Yep, same thing happened to me a couple of months back. Found the spacer to be about 1.6mm to short so was surprised the bearings lasted as long as they did. Machined up a new spacer, replaced bearings and everything happy... Interesting. What size (length) should the spacer be? I've got a lathe and some aluminum stock, and I'd rather take it apart again and get the right size in, if I got a short spacer. is the original spacer made of aluminum? i think if i was making one i'd use steel, less apt to crush especially with 86 ft. lbs. torque. jeez, that spacer that was 1.6 mm short? that's about .062. no wonder the bearing failed, a miracle it lasted as long as it did. sure handy to have a lathe, eh? scf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 I just measured the distance between registers and had a steel spacer made to match, sufficient scantling to ensure crush wasn't an issue. Stock one was .049 shy and was made of cheese! Previous owner had slipped in a washer .020!! Bizarre. No issues with steel spacer installed. Basic stuff when reassembling- lube the needle bearing on the drive side with bearing grease, (stick yer finger into the the bevel box and pop out the internal race to get at it) likewise the spindle (especially if your making a mild steel spacer), finally ensure the washer on the drive side is properly set into the recess, secure that with grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 I just measured the distance between registers and had a steel spacer made to match, sufficient scantling to ensure crush wasn't an issue. Stock one was .049 shy and was made of cheese! Previous owner had slipped in a washer .020!! Bizarre. No issues with steel spacer installed. Basic stuff when reassembling- lube the needle bearing on the drive side with bearing grease, (stick yer finger into the the bevel box and pop out the internal race to get at it) likewise the spindle (especially if your making a mild steel spacer), finally ensure the washer on the drive side is properly set into the recess, secure that with grease. I made a thin silicone washer to fit under that steel washer, greased it all and put it back on. Seems to be a very easy solution to keep outside moisture from getting in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelpacket Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 I'm sorry, but I'm not following the different terms being used here. I just measured the distance between registers and had a steel spacer made to match, sufficient scantling to ensure crush wasn't an issue. What do you mean when you say "between registers"? How did you calculate a measurement for scantling? I thought this issue came about due to a missing spacer between the rear brake caliper mount and the wheel bearing. Is it happening because of the spacer in the wheel between the two bearings? Or undershimming on the rear drive side? Basic stuff when reassembling- lube the needle bearing on the drive side with bearing grease, (stick yer finger into the the bevel box and pop out the internal race to get at it) likewise the spindle (especially if your making a mild steel spacer), finally ensure the washer on the drive side is properly set into the recess, secure that with grease. When I pulled the wheel off, I only saw the female coupling for the wheel spline,, the splines on the wheel, and a sealed bearings in the wheel. I'll have to check the parts diagram to understand which maintenance items your talking about. I lubed the rear drive spline with some moly grease, but its always good to know all the items I should be greasing back there. Thanks for the information, I'll start searching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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