Ducwad Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I have owned my '03 Lemans RC for a couple thousand miles now. Nearing 20K I decided to check the valves. Following directions here I believe I am doing the procedure correctly. I can see the piston top through the spark plug hole confirming TDC but I can't 'spin' the pushrods. Also things seem way too tight. I could set the intake to .006 on the right side but I can't even get my smallest feeler into the exhaust side fully with the adjuster backed out. The other side is similarly tight. The bike has been parked for days so I know it's cold. Does it sound like I am doing something obviously wrong? Thanks, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pasrider Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I have owned my '03 Lemans RC for a couple thousand miles now. Nearing 20K I decided to check the valves. Following directions here I believe I am doing the procedure correctly. I can see the piston top through the spark plug hole confirming TDC but I can't 'spin' the pushrods. Also things seem way too tight. I could set the intake to .006 on the right side but I can't even get my smallest feeler into the exhaust side fully with the adjuster backed out. The other side is similarly tight. The bike has been parked for days so I know it's cold. Does it sound like I am doing something obviously wrong? Thanks, Mark Maybe you're not on the compression stroke?? That's what I'd check first... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swinfurkon Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I have owned my '03 Lemans RC for a couple thousand miles now. Nearing 20K I decided to check the valves. Following directions here I believe I am doing the procedure correctly. I can see the piston top through the spark plug hole confirming TDC but I can't 'spin' the pushrods. Also things seem way too tight. I could set the intake to .006 on the right side but I can't even get my smallest feeler into the exhaust side fully with the adjuster backed out. The other side is similarly tight. The bike has been parked for days so I know it's cold. Does it sound like I am doing something obviously wrong? Thanks, Mark Maybe you're not on the compression stroke?? That's what I'd check first... Mike Correct, the piston needs to be on its way up on compression. Mark, let us know if after checking it is on compression you still have the same problem. It is possible you wont, because if they are that tight with valves closed, you start to get electrical problems - valves hit pistons, causing part of the internal components to fly out the side and dislodge the starter motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 If you are not sure, concentrate on ONE cylinder at a time. One revolution @ TDC will have the exhaust valve closing while the intake valve is opening. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution until that cylinder is @ TDC again. This will give you the position you want to adjust the valves on that particular cylinder. After adjusting the valves on that side, go to the other side and repeat the procedure. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducwad Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks guys!! I went back and when I had the -S- in sight but the push rods were not loose I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) using it until I saw the -S- again. Then things were right - cylinder up, pushrods loose. And boy were things loose Anyways all is good now. After setting tings and manually rotating the rear wheel for a long time checking that the pushrods never actually lost contact with the rocker arms (as they were doing!) I was convinced that I had it right this time. Buttoned it back up and she runs just fine. Sweet. I wanted to get this set right before looking at getting a dyno tune as the bike still pings at > 1/2 throttle roll-ons over 4K RPM. The map the PO put in isn't right for this machine and I can't find any that match my specs - hi-comp pistons, FBF airbox & cross over, Mistral reverse cones. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) that seems like it might be hard.. I take off the alternator cover and turn motor w/a (32?)mm socket. CCW when looked at from front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducwad Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) that seems like it might be hard.. I take off the alternator cover and turn motor w/a (32?)mm socket. CCW when looked at from front. Yeah, I started in thinking I would do that but the exhaust crossover on mine is in the way and I had read where someone had used the screwdriver method on all their Guzzis, new and old. It wasn't hard at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks guys!! I went back and when I had the -S- in sight but the push rods were not loose I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) using it until I saw the -S- again. Then things were right - cylinder up, pushrods loose. And boy were things loose Anyways all is good now. After setting tings and manually rotating the rear wheel for a long time checking that the pushrods never actually lost contact with the rocker arms (as they were doing!) I was convinced that I had it right this time. Buttoned it back up and she runs just fine. Sweet. I wanted to get this set right before looking at getting a dyno tune as the bike still pings at > 1/2 throttle roll-ons over 4K RPM. The map the PO put in isn't right for this machine and I can't find any that match my specs - hi-comp pistons, FBF airbox & cross over, Mistral reverse cones. Thanks again! Are you running PREMIUM fuel ? If not, use it. I don't care how much it costs, use it ! Use fuel with the least alchohol content and do not use convenience store fuel either. Name brand only ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducwad Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks guys!! I went back and when I had the -S- in sight but the push rods were not loose I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) using it until I saw the -S- again. Then things were right - cylinder up, pushrods loose. And boy were things loose Anyways all is good now. After setting tings and manually rotating the rear wheel for a long time checking that the pushrods never actually lost contact with the rocker arms (as they were doing!) I was convinced that I had it right this time. Buttoned it back up and she runs just fine. Sweet. I wanted to get this set right before looking at getting a dyno tune as the bike still pings at > 1/2 throttle roll-ons over 4K RPM. The map the PO put in isn't right for this machine and I can't find any that match my specs - hi-comp pistons, FBF airbox & cross over, Mistral reverse cones. Thanks again! Are you running PREMIUM fuel ? If not, use it. I don't care how much it costs, use it ! Use fuel with the least alchohol content and do not use convenience store fuel either. Name brand only ! Always have, always will. I may even try an octane booster to see if that helps. But I'm pretty sure its just too lean there. I know it s too rich down low. The map on this PCIII appears to be the default for a 2001 Sport but without at least the hi-comp pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 You need to find a PowerCommander dealer/installer that can use a laptop to "adjust" the map a bit ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sculler2x Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 You should have clearance between the pushrod and the rocker arm. If they never lose contact they are way too tight. As things warm up and expand the clearance will go down but never close up completely. Thanks guys!! I went back and when I had the -S- in sight but the push rods were not loose I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) using it until I saw the -S- again. Then things were right - cylinder up, pushrods loose. And boy were things loose Anyways all is good now. After setting tings and manually rotating the rear wheel for a long time checking that the pushrods never actually lost contact with the rocker arms (as they were doing!) I was convinced that I had it right this time. Buttoned it back up and she runs just fine. Sweet. I wanted to get this set right before looking at getting a dyno tune as the bike still pings at > 1/2 throttle roll-ons over 4K RPM. The map the PO put in isn't right for this machine and I can't find any that match my specs - hi-comp pistons, FBF airbox & cross over, Mistral reverse cones. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stewart Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 If you are fighting a ping with the FBF pistons, I don't think a dyno tune will fix the issure unless they can back off the ignition timing. I fought this issue on one of my bikes and ended up going with Mike Rich's pistons. Problem solved. Mike Thanks guys!! I went back and when I had the -S- in sight but the push rods were not loose I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) using it until I saw the -S- again. Then things were right - cylinder up, pushrods loose. And boy were things loose Anyways all is good now. After setting tings and manually rotating the rear wheel for a long time checking that the pushrods never actually lost contact with the rocker arms (as they were doing!) I was convinced that I had it right this time. Buttoned it back up and she runs just fine. Sweet. I wanted to get this set right before looking at getting a dyno tune as the bike still pings at > 1/2 throttle roll-ons over 4K RPM. The map the PO put in isn't right for this machine and I can't find any that match my specs - hi-comp pistons, FBF airbox & cross over, Mistral reverse cones. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 If you are fighting a ping with the FBF pistons, I don't think a dyno tune will fix the issure unless they can back off the ignition timing. I fought this issue on one of my bikes and ended up going with Mike Rich's pistons. Problem solved. Mike Thanks guys!! I went back and when I had the -S- in sight but the push rods were not loose I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) using it until I saw the -S- again. Then things were right - cylinder up, pushrods loose. And boy were things loose Anyways all is good now. After setting tings and manually rotating the rear wheel for a long time checking that the pushrods never actually lost contact with the rocker arms (as they were doing!) I was convinced that I had it right this time. Buttoned it back up and she runs just fine. Sweet. I wanted to get this set right before looking at getting a dyno tune as the bike still pings at > 1/2 throttle roll-ons over 4K RPM. The map the PO put in isn't right for this machine and I can't find any that match my specs - hi-comp pistons, FBF airbox & cross over, Mistral reverse cones. Thanks again! I'm waiting for the next batch of MRM pistons. If and when Megacycle produces one of their rare batches of cams, I'm in line for one of those and MRM Ti pushrods for the long-dormant Sport 1100i. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeve Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I'm waiting for the next batch of MRM pistons. If and when Megacycle produces one of their rare batches of cams, I'm in line for one of those and MRM Ti pushrods for the long-dormant Sport 1100i. Which Megacycle cam are you going to go with? Don't forget w/ the Ti pushrods, your clearances will tighten way up, since they don't expand w/ heat the same amount as the alloy stockers or aftermarket Chro-Mo ones will. IIRC, Pete Roper mentioned running close to 0 lash [on a stone-cold engine] with them on their classic Guzzi racer down in Oz, since once the engine heated up, that gave them their correct lash spec. Or maybe those were CF pushrods we were discussing? Hope your wait for the pistons is short! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) that seems like it might be hard.. I take off the alternator cover and turn motor w/a (32?)mm socket. CCW when looked at from front. Normal rotation is CW.. right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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