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df2
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bike also has misfire issue around 3000 rpm at 40mph and idle is low (maybe unrlelated to electrical issues)

I had that stumble around 3k, put on a Mistral crossover and it pretty much went away. Or, it could be the TPS setting.
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So now i'm into it...

 

Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)

and realize looking at the ground wire, it's not really grounded. The ground wire which screws to one of four regulator cover screws which screws to 4 rubber feet, which in turn are actually glued to the frame, how is this grounded. Unfortunately I pulled a little to hard and now the regulator isn't attached to anything.

 

Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches? Of course behind the plastic fluid container with a washer so it's metal to metal. It's Not long enough to go to negative battery terminal. And are those rubber bumpers really just glued to the frame. My regulator is going to dance all over the place now. (actually,there is one bumper still attatched to frame )

 

Help!

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Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)

 

Um, that's not the regulator- that's the ECU. You really should bolt it back down on rubber mounts.

 

Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches?

 

Yes, although it is kind of a PITA to get there. I ran a ground wire to a relay from the reservoir mount. You will need to remove the paint, so you get a good contact. You could also just obtain a longer piece of wire, a couple of crimp-on fittings and attach the ground to the battery.

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Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)

 

Um, that's not the regulator- that's the ECU. You really should bolt it back down on rubber mounts.

 

Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches?

 

Yes, although it is kind of a PITA to get there. I ran a ground wire to a relay from the reservoir mount. You will need to remove the paint, so you get a good contact. You could also just obtain a longer piece of wire, a couple of crimp-on fittings and attach the ground to the battery.

 

 

Darn, that's why I mentioned what I thought it looked like....so let me see if I have this right. The regulator is actually the thing located between the horns. So what is the ground wire that comes up under the ecu and attaches to one of the ECU mounting bolts.

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Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)

 

Um, that's not the regulator- that's the ECU. You really should bolt it back down on rubber mounts.

 

Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches?

 

Yes, although it is kind of a PITA to get there. I ran a ground wire to a relay from the reservoir mount. You will need to remove the paint, so you get a good contact. You could also just obtain a longer piece of wire, a couple of crimp-on fittings and attach the ground to the battery.

 

 

Darn, that's why I mentioned what I thought it looked like....so let me see if I have this right. The regulator is actually the thing located between the horns. So what is the ground wire that comes up under the ecu and attaches to one of the ECU mounting bolts.

 

Umm, put down the screw driver grasshopper.. take deep breath.. what exactly are you trying to do?

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Thought about relocating the ground wire for the regulator (the big silver thing behind the battery)

 

Um, that's not the regulator- that's the ECU. You really should bolt it back down on rubber mounts.

 

Can I ground to the frame where the rear brake fluid container attaches?

 

Yes, although it is kind of a PITA to get there. I ran a ground wire to a relay from the reservoir mount. You will need to remove the paint, so you get a good contact. You could also just obtain a longer piece of wire, a couple of crimp-on fittings and attach the ground to the battery.

 

 

Darn, that's why I mentioned what I thought it looked like....so let me see if I have this right. The regulator is actually the thing located between the horns. So what is the ground wire that comes up under the ecu and attaches to one of the ECU mounting bolts.

 

Umm, put down the screw driver grasshopper.. take deep breath.. what exactly are you trying to do?

 

 

When I step back and think about it, I'd have to say sabotage...

 

Okay, so I keep blowing fuse # 6. And the bike also has some tough times around 3000 rmp with misfires and lack of real acceleration. Since I have no experience tracking down shorts , I did some other digging; and saw several posts about poorly grounded voltage regulators and it causing blown fuses and poor running etc. So I thought, gee regrounding something should be easy... so I found a pic of the regulator and gee it looks just like the upside down ECU and lots of schematics of the wiring show it somewhere around there also. Ergo my confusion, plus on many of the posts it talks about the regulator being grounded to one of the four posts that actually sit on top of rubber bumpers. Just like the ECU.

 

So that's why I'm asking what is that ground coming from, cause it sure isn't actually grounded. It's not out of the ECU, it comes up from below it with all the rest of the wiring harness.

 

So anyway, at this point I'm putting it all back like it was and starting over. But I would like to make sure the regulator has a good ground.

 

So basically I'd like to work on this stuff, but have no one around who can teach me anything. Everyone I know who rides is a RUB (Rich Urban Biker) and they just spend a thousand here and another there at the dealership every time they need something done on their bikes.

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Well, good for you then, because you actually want to learn something. That's real, BTW, I'm not being snarky.

 

I'm sorry, but I don't have a wiring diagram handy. What does fuse #6 serve?

 

In general, if you want to improve the grounding scheme on these bikes (and they need it), then run a ground from the regulator (between the horns), to the second or third bolt down on the engine timing case (just because it is conveniently located). Also, run a ground from the triple trees to the same bolt. The first improves the ground path from the regulator, the second distinctly improves grounding from the headlight.

 

 

Do you have any modifications on the bike?

Have you set the TPS recently or at all?

Have you balanced the throttle bodies recently or at all?

 

Answers to these questions may help with your running issues.

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as JRT said, the regulator is a box under the front of the tank between the horns.. you can run a wire from a mounting bolt to an engine bolt, this will give a good ground. maybe someone nearby could help you set the TPS and sync throttle bodies.

if you go to wildguzzi.com there might be someone on there who lives near you?

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as JRT said, the regulator is a box under the front of the tank between the horns.. you can run a wire from a mounting bolt to an engine bolt, this will give a good ground. maybe someone nearby could help you set the TPS and sync throttle bodies.

if you go to wildguzzi.com there might be someone on there who lives near you?

 

 

fuse 6 is the 5A lights.

 

This is my third season with this motorcycle. I have never had the Throttle boddies, valves, or carbs adjusted/synced. My main concern is the electrical as this is the third time I've blown a fuse simply while riding. But I'd also like to get the power back it had originally and get it running smooth. (rpm are a bit low and it idles rough as well as the cough and spit at 3000)

The original owner I never knew, bike was sold through a friend of his who worked for Seacoast BMW. His friend said I would like how it was set up, so I took that to mean he had tweeked the mapping. The bike has an open airbox and mistral pipes with the original crossover. When I first got it, the bike pulled strong through all gears and rpms, if not a little "primative". There was a short somewhere that was causing the signals not to work, and I had that "repaired" at the moto guzzi dealer (5 miles up the road). I've replaced the relay's with GEI's.

Last season I replaced the plugs that were a bit fouled (black). This year, new odyssee battery(12.65 on the voltage meeter when installed). Most of the electrical connections up front are simply twisted with electrical tape (bike had magni which I swapped out back to original screen and put bars on). I'm relatively confident everything went back as it was.

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Do not twist and tape ANY connections...............Use butt connectors or butt connectors w/ spade or bullet terminals...

According to my 2003 wiring diagram, fues #6 powers the ign. coils, fuel injectors, fuel pump & dash warning lamp...2000 might be different ?

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Do not twist and tape ANY connections...............Use butt connectors or butt connectors w/ spade or bullet terminals...

According to my 2003 wiring diagram, fues #6 powers the ign. coils, fuel injectors, fuel pump & dash warning lamp...2000 might be different ?

 

 

Probably different. Counting back from front, the 6th fuse is a 5a and it indicates that it is for lights on mine, just not headlight. I'll check out the NE club.

 

ps the twist and tape method was already there and was continued by the dealer when they supposedly tracked down the last short.

 

According to my 2000 sport here is the fuse layout

 

F1: ECU (5a)

F2: pump,coils injectors(10a)

F3: battery recharger (30a)

F4: ignition key switch (10a)

F5: high,low beam, horn, start, stop (15a)

F6: dipped lights (5a)

F7: direction indicators. (this has also shorted on me before) (5a)

F8: solenoid valve (5a)

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more info.

 

Okay, located a ground wire that goes from the regulator mounting bolt and feeds into the wiring harness leading under the tank, along the frame and at that point I loose it. I don't want to take all that apart right now with a full tank. Can somone tell me specifically if they know where the regulator is typically grounded by the factory. Cause it seems awful strange to run the ground wire the full length of the motorcycle. I reallly am wondering if that original wire I spoke of that was attached to the right front ECU bolt is actually this regulator ground wire.

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