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Onibaka

I ask for help with service.

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Похоже, подшипники колес. Захватите колес по одному за раз и попытаться покачать их, любое движение может быть подшипники.

Подшипники задних колес были недавно изменены. Я проверил передних когда я отложили колеса, они были в полном порядке. Мне советовали, что, вероятно, из-за падения фиксированных вилы повернуты в тройном локона. Будет ли check его, когда это возможно.

 

Кроме того, ослабить установку на демпфер рулевого управления в мягчайшим положение.

Именно в лузового один, но это Shyndy плотнее, чем оригинальный bitubo

 

Close as I can get (with my rusty Russian!): :glare:

"It was a loose one, but it Shindy denser than the original bitubo"

 

Even with my Shindy, I keep it all the way loose. Also, low rear tire pressure or weak rear spring can give high speed weave.

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OMG! My browser has translated the message before sending  :grin:  :whistle:

Sounds like wheel bearings. Grab the wheels one at a time and try to wiggle them, any movement may be the bearings.

The rear wheel bearings were recently changed. I checked the front ones when I put off the wheels, they were totally fine. I was advised that probably because of the fall the fixed forks rotated in  triple tress. Will ckeck it when possible.

Also, loosen the setting on the steering damper to the softest position.

It is in the loosest one, but this Shyndy is tighter than the original bitubo

My browser has translated the message before sending

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Try removing the damper altogether, just take the bolt out of one end.

It will soon show you if that's the problem.

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Has the swing arm been removed and replaced on the V11?

 

A misaligned swing arm (rear to front tire contact alignment) could contribute to a weave.

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I've found that a 'cupped' front tyre can seem to give weavy-wallow in long fast corners...

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I think Stu is on to it, as the tire wears down they start to follow every little crack in the road.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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Also, as i've been piddling about with my new clip-on set up, which provides various configurations, i have been amazed (really!) at how the changes have affected the ride.

First position, far forward, quite 'droopy' bars, and with the forks set to manual specs in the yolks resulted in beautiful feel thru the marzocchi suspension- best she's ever felt. Yet also had me experiencing my first bad shakes thru the front end when razzing about over rough road surfaces and wrecked my wrists after an hour...

I brought the bar position back, meaning i had to raise the forks back up for master cylinder clearance, 'flattened' off the angle, and now my wrists are happy, the bike looks the tits, but it's taken the edge off the sublime feeling from the suspension.

 

I think i'm fairly jaded with dis- and re-assembling it now....

And fed up riding about with 4,5,6 and 8mm allen keys jingle jangling about in my pocketses...

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Thank you for your advice!

 

Has the swing arm been removed and replaced on the V11?

 

A misaligned swing arm (rear to front tire contact alignment) could contribute to a weave.

Yes, the swing arm was removed before, unfortunately  before dismantling I didn't note the original size of swing arm alignment. I tried to align it approximately and it drove better afterwards. Maybe you can advise how I can align it more accurately? 

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I believe if you set the nuts equal distance on both sides it will be close enough, the bearings should be just tight enough to create some resistance

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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Thank you for your advice!

 

Has the swing arm been removed and replaced on the V11?

 

A misaligned swing arm (rear to front tire contact alignment) could contribute to a weave.

Yes, the swing arm was removed before, unfortunately  before dismantling I didn't note the original size of swing arm alignment. I tried to align it approximately and it drove better afterwards. Maybe you can advise how I can align it more accurately? 

Kiwi_Roy's method is a good starting point, but first take a caliper and measure the depth to the pivots from the lock nuts - this will tell you where it is now.

 

We measured six V11 at a Spine Raid a few years back and none were the same.

 

With my V11 sitting vertical, I used a laser level from the sides of the front tire and marked the floor at the rear to get them aligned. (I, too, had removed my swingarm before measuring!)

 

Others have used long glass tubes (fluorescent light bulbs) to project alignment from the front.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4778&p=46556

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4778&p=159624

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Hello! This season I have a problem with my motorcycle. From time to time, the fuel pump stops working. It just stops pumping (no buzz). It can happen right on the go, or maybe after a stop. The pump does not respond for 3-10 minutes (at this time I pull the fuses, contacts and relay in an attempt to understand what happened), and then it starts. After that, it can work for 5-15 minutes and then stops pumping again, and can work without interruptions for several weeks until it starts to fail again. I cannot understand what the problem may be. I had it once, a couple of years ago, when I did the synchronization and the motor got too hot, I also could not start the motorcycle until it cooled down. I think that maybe some sensor (for example, an air temperature sensor) gives wrong information to the CPU and it does not let start the motorcycle (CPU turns off the pump)? The ground wire looks reliable, but after the appearance of the described problem I have not checked it. All other electronic systems work properly.

Any ideas?  Thank you in advance! 

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Have you looked on this forum for troubleshooting methods / procedures ?

 

Are your relays new?

 

Did you check all of your wiring?

 

Did you read everything ever written by Kiwi_Roy?

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I found this topic, it looked like there was a similar problem, but I did not understand (translation problem) what exactly helped to solve it? Replacement of relay? I changed all the relays a few years ago to new ones, so I tried to swap them. Visually, all the wires are intact, the problem is that the pump does not work just on the road, when I am in the garage, and when I have a toolkit and a place to check, the motorcycle works properly. I read a message from Kiwi_Roy, but I'm afraid I understood only partly (using google translator).

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I had a similar problem one time. It was a faulty relay. It went bad slowly over a couple weeks, then failed completely. The replacement failed the following season.

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