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I ask for help with service.

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I found this topic, it looked like there was a similar problem, but I did not understand (translation problem) what exactly helped to solve it? Replacement of relay? I changed all the relays a few years ago to new ones, so I tried to swap them. Visually, all the wires are intact, the problem is that the pump does not work just on the road, when I am in the garage, and when I have a toolkit and a place to check, the motorcycle works properly. I read a message from Kiwi_Roy, but I'm afraid I understood only partly (using google translator).

Relay #5 (at the rear, last one, at the back) must be rated "High Current":

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

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Did you move the relays to see if it changed anything ? 

I hope we can help you to resolve this easily .

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When you first turn the key on does the pump run for a couple of seconds, it should every time.

If not try adding a small 12 volt lamp across the coil of the ECU relay to see if it lights up, it should as long as the key is on.

If you have a petcock fuse you could attach the lamp to that and chassis.

 

If it doesn't light it might be the stand switch or one of the other interlocks is bad.

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I have not yet found the TPS from Harley-Davidson with the delivery... While the "repaired" their capabilities:

 

8722dce50d61445147ac5dde67abd5d0.jpg

 

 

While the sensor is not worried. Calibrated by the TPS to 150 mV, synchronized and set idle to ~1100 RPM according to the

instructions http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204

 

 

On the other settings such as diagnostic equipment needed ?

 

With Guzzi DIAG I can only observe the operation of the system? Replace if it can substitute Axone 2000?

 

 

Motorcycle is stable, single speed is stable, but it seems to me that the bike was a bit "stupid", accelerates slower when the throttle partially open.

Although it may be I am wrong, when I open the gas completely, the bike accelerates well. 

I think that with the Guzzi Diag I can clarify this . :grin:

 

 

Thank you

 

Hello there. I wonder if could you tell me what a symptoms while engine is working with broken throttle position sensor. Is it a true that vehicle is jerking suddenly on the highway? Or it is jerking somewhere else.

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Hello there anyone. I wonder if could you tell me what a symptoms while engine is working with broken throttle position sensor. Is it a true that vehicle is jerking suddenly on the highway? Or it is jerking somewhere else.

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Hi, kuzmal.. welcome to the forum. Normally a TPS will have a bad section, and will run normally before that place and after it. With careful throttle application, you can kill the engine if you have the throttle in *exactly* the right place. At least, that has been my experience. An ohmmeter can generally find it. 

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Hello there anyone. I wonder if could you tell me what a symptoms while engine is working with broken throttle position sensor. Is it a true that vehicle is jerking suddenly on the highway? Or it is jerking somewhere else.

There may be some additional helpful information here:

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20386&page=3&do=findComment&comment=232303

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If the engine is cutting out for no reason it might be the side-stand switch is faulty.

to check this pull out relay No 3 and short out between relay pins 30 and 87, this will make sure the relay cannot make the engine stall

 

Relay no 3

  -----    30  

                              around

  -----    87  

 

  |   |   |   85, 87a, 86

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Hello there anyone. I wonder if could you tell me what a symptoms while engine is working with broken throttle position sensor. Is it a true that vehicle is jerking suddenly on the highway? Or it is jerking somewhere else.

yes.  Mine did that when the TPS became accidentally unplugged.  

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It's easy to check your TPS, just find the terminal that's connected to the slider and monitor that to chassis with a meter

It should ramp smoothly from low millivolts to about 4-1/2 Volts as you twist the throttle.

Use the Volt range on your meter, actually an old analog meter works best for this.

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It's easy to check your TPS, just find the terminal that's connected to the slider and monitor that to chassis with a meter

It should ramp smoothly from low millivolts to about 4-1/2 Volts as you twist the throttle.

Use the Volt range on your meter, actually an old analog meter works best for this.

I never could find my TPS fault with the millivolt function. Perhaps my Triplett meter just isn't good enough in that mode. I was able to see the *jump* watching resistance using the ohm meter across the TPS leads. 

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Hello there anyone. I wonder if could you tell me what a symptoms while engine is working with broken throttle position sensor. Is it a true that vehicle is jerking suddenly on the highway? Or it is jerking somewhere else.

Hello,in my case jerking suddenly started at any moment when the engine was working.

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Hello! I need your advise, please.

During one of my rides i found out that oil is leaking heavily from the rear drive.

1a_zpsaeb0ozcw.jpg

About 300 km remained till the house, so i had to pour oil along the way. Later on the way i started filling blows in the back and crunching while driving (when pressing lever  clutch). Firts, i thought that the problem was with one of the ball bearings, but overall motocycle was riding as usual. 

When i was at home, i took off the rear drive,  the shaft was swaying (playing). I will replace the bearings (14, 22 on the schema) and the oil seal (17) that was leaking. But i am not sure, that the blows and the cruching were provoked by the bearing (the bearing did not seem to have any defects). 

 

After I decided to drain the oil from the gearbox, and I found that the oil was very dirty (although it was cleaner at the last replacement) and there is metal dust on the magnetic plug. I suppose that there is some friction in the gearbox. 


c8f74372-c271-4236-a30c-2e56a14e1298_zps025c4aa6-2e66-43fd-9fe0-88a000413dd5_zps

 


I took off the gearbox, but on preliminary inspection I have not found out shafts gap or anything. And here i am thinking if it is worth to disassemble further and get the shafts with gears to find something that could provoke the oil dirtiness or simply to replace something for prevention measures? 

Or maybe it is normal for V11? 

 

At the same time, I decided to eliminate all possible leaks, because I have the box all the time wet (from all sides) but i cannot find where from it is leaking. 

I have found an instruction to eliminate leaks, but except the 2-b point there (about bolts), i did not understood what is ment there, just in general. Can anyone in the diagram indicate with arrows what places of the box are mentioned there?

 


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The "two bolts" Pete Roper describes are at the bottom of the rear main bearing carrier at the rear of the engine.  There are several other places that can leak engine oil. The second link you have is about leaking gearbox oil. Which type of oil is making your gearbox wet?

IMG_2613.JPG

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