Craig Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 My Ballabio died on Wednesday. I was heading home and it started fine, then after a few miles started to sputter and died. The instruments (I have VDO electrics fitted) froze and the LCDs blanked shortly before the failure. After I coasted to a stop and it sat for a few minutes. I turned the bike on and the instruments came up and indicated the battery voltage was at 10.9V. The starter would not engage (solenoid just clicked). I got it home on a flatbed and charged the battery. This is a 1 month old battery, so I doubt it is the problem. This was at the end of the day and I don't normally monitor voltage, so it could have been floating on the battery for a long time. This morning the bike started right up, but the system voltage stayed at 12.2 which is what the battery was showing prior to starting. Looks like the alternator or the VR is dead. Is there a way to test the reg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 A bit of a coincidence that this happens so soon after changing the battery. Often there are multiple leads going onto the battery terminals. Maybe you missed one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavo Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Never discount the battery no matter how new , I had 2 new batteries fail within weeks, after much testing and installation of a volt meter another new battery of a different brand and fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Craig, Yes there are all sorts of tests can be done, lets start with the simple ones. First check the bike wiring Unplug all the wires from the regulator. Now with your multimeter measure the resistance between the battery positive and the connector where the regulators red wires connect to the loom. - should be very low resistance With key on measure the Voltage on the red/black wire where the regulators black wire plugs in - should be 12+ Volts. Measure the resistance between the two yellow wires coming out of the alternator, should be ~1 Ohm Now the regulator. If you have the diode test function on your multimeter put the red lead on one yellow regulator wire, black lead on the red regulator wire - should read ~ 0.5 Volt, the other yellow should be the same. Report back Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 A bit of a coincidence that this happens so soon after changing the battery. Often there are multiple leads going onto the battery terminals. Maybe you missed one. Truly, I did check and no loose ends. Have about 1000 miles on the new battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Never discount the battery no matter how new , I had 2 new batteries fail within weeks, after much testing and installation of a volt meter another new battery of a different brand and fixed. Yeah, I put in on a slow charge/diagnostic charger and it seems fine, but I may be able to take it into town tomorrow to get checked. Craig, Yes there are all sorts of tests can be done, lets start with the simple ones. First check the bike wiring Unplug all the wires from the regulator. Now with your multimeter measure the resistance between the battery positive and the connector where the regulators red wires connect to the loom. - should be very low resistance With key on measure the Voltage on the red/black wire where the regulators black wire plugs in - should be 12+ Volts. Measure the resistance between the two yellow wires coming out of the alternator, should be ~1 Ohm Now the regulator. If you have the diode test function on your multimeter put the red lead on one yellow regulator wire, black lead on the red regulator wire - should read ~ 0.5 Volt, the other yellow should be the same. Report back Roy Thanks, I can run those in the morning... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 All measurements passed. Excellent continuity from battery and ground to the VR connector, forward voltages on the VR diodes checked out at about 0.5V. I pulled the alternator connector and measured approx 0.8Ohms...but, I got a surprise. The pictures below show the alternator->VR connector. Something happened there. This was probably a very high impedance connection and may very well have looked like an open when the bike finally bit it... Cleaning the connectors is going to be a bear, they got very hot and are a bit deformed. Anyone know what that connector is, so I can splice in new ones? [N/M I found some weather pack connectors in my stash, I will try those...] VR Connector: Alternator side of the same connector: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 Well, I spliced in a new connector and everything seems right. System voltage is now 13.5 at 3000RPM and very stable above that. I would really like to know what caused that connector to smoke...any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Well, I spliced in a new connector and everything seems right. System voltage is now 13.5 at 3000RPM and very stable above that. I would really like to know what caused that connector to smoke...any ideas? Yep.....those blade connectors arn't the best solution for that application. Bullet type are superior. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v11cafe Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Ehmm same happened to me about two years ago, alternator connector kind of melted. I got a new alternator and connector, no problems since then. I still cannot explain what happened though My (cheap) battery was low, I jump started the bike many times(I live on a hill lol) as I waited for an odyssey to arrive, and then as Craig describes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 It's been arcing away for a while, probably started out as just a little corrosion. Early Honda Goldwings are known for that only they end up smoking the stator which calls for a total strip down. In their case the recommended cure is to chop the connector out and solder the wires together before it happens. As Lucky Phil says, individual bullets are better. I pulled the cover off my alternator, one wire was just hanging on by a single strand. Moto Guzzi, making electricians out of riders for 90 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 Well, I spliced in a new connector and everything seems right. System voltage is now 13.5 at 3000RPM and very stable above that. I would really like to know what caused that connector to smoke...any ideas? Yep.....those blade connectors arn't the best solution for that application. Bullet type are superior. Ciao Strangely enough about six inches upstream of the alternator connector there were two bullet connectors. The wiring was pretty crispy so I put in the weather pack above the bullets (I didn't have any matching bullets on hand) Ehmm same happened to me about two years ago, alternator connector kind of melted. I got a new alternator and connector, no problems since then. I still cannot explain what happened though My (cheap) battery was low, I jump started the bike many times(I live on a hill lol) as I waited for an odyssey to arrive, and then as Craig describes. $$$!!! It's been arcing away for a while, probably started out as just a little corrosion. Early Honda Goldwings are known for that only they end up smoking the stator which calls for a total strip down. In their case the recommended cure is to chop the connector out and solder the wires together before it happens. As Lucky Phil says, individual bullets are better. I pulled the cover off my alternator, one wire was just hanging on by a single strand. Moto Guzzi, making electricians out of riders for 90 years I have 20AMP housing on the weather pack, so it should hold up. I should probably pull the alternator cover to check the wiring on that end too Thanks for all the help!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Craig Replacing the panel lamps LED Panel Lamps.pdf http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/74-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/226/ http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/empty-bases-sockets/168194-wled-solder-contact-wedge-base-socket/703/963/ I would also add a 1K resistor across the oil pressure light, mine tends to come on when the switch gets wet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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