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The Traxxion replacement cartridges look tempting. I imagine they are a strong competitor to tha Andreani (sp ?) cartridges.

Just measured the forks on my V11, the caps sit 21mm above the triple tree. So having a 20mm extender cap on the proposed Showa forks & dropping the forks down in the triple trees 20 mm will put the centerline of the wheel in the same place as previously with the OEM forks.

Showa's USA facility is 15 miles from me. Wonder if they have a back room filled with old stuff they don't sell anymore :ninja:

This is where the emoji of someone with their face in a book studying would go. :lol:

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14 hours ago, nobleswood said:

GuzziMoto,

Thanks for the answers to my questions :thumbsup:

I had been going down the same road about finding forks that are 770 mm and then wondering about fork extenders.

Having just found the chart that you posted above, last night :lol:

Not knowing anything about the extenders, do you need a longer spring & longer rebound damping rod ? As the difference between, say the Showa's is roughly 40 mm

The extenders do not affect the springs or anything else inside the forks. Not even the air volume inside the fork is affected. They are basically a fork cap with an extra high lip. The adjuster is in the same place, which due to the extended lip, down inside the extended lip.

And they do not make universal fork extensions. A fork extension for one Showa fork isn't likely to fit other model Showa forks. They are model specific. Could one for a GSXR fit a Griso? Sure. But it is more likely not.

I have a set, as mentioned, if you want to see if it would fit what you are doing. I even have a spare set of GSXR forks, along with the set on the Aprilia and the set on the Daytona. I don't remember the details on the spare set, but if they would work for you you can have them.

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Looking at the Traxxion webpage, I see what you mean now; how the preload & rebound adjusters fit inside the extended cap.

Good to know about the incompatibility of the caps, although I am surprised that the same manufacturer, be it Showa or  Kayaba wouldn't standardize their stuff.

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On 1/3/2020 at 3:59 PM, nobleswood said:

Looking at the Traxxion webpage, I see what you mean now; how the preload & rebound adjusters fit inside the extended cap.

Good to know about the incompatibility of the caps, although I am surprised that the same manufacturer, be it Showa or  Kayaba wouldn't standardize their stuff.

Part of the reason is the various versions of the forks have different adjuster set ups. And the fork caps have to accommodate the adjusters.

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On 1/9/2020 at 12:52 PM, LangleyMalc said:

Like KiwiDave I live in Langley BC and am going through the suspension on my 2004 Ballabio. It is a weather related problem as it has started pouring and is about 4 degrees.  No real problems identified with the handling  but forks and shock not touched since new, 15 years and 30K km ago.  So I am just about to pull the forks and replace the oil, which seems relatively straight forward as per 

 

However, I cannot find anything about the rear shock specs or service/oil change. Nor can I find anything about adjustment. Everything on the rear shock is set mid run right now. That includes the spring, Rebound and Damping. So what I would like to do is service or get it serviced and then sort out the setup for a single 200lb rider including clothing. 

any and all suggestions gratefully received and if KiwiDave could contact me offline we could compare notes and sources for parts etc. 
 Thanks. 

 

8 hours ago, LowRyter said:

The key is to work methodically.  Get the sag (preload) right first.  Then work the adjusters on test rides.  

Set the sag. Much easier with two people.  When the rider sits on the bike the suspension should sag about 1/3 of travel, something like 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 in.   One way to do it by yourself is to put a zip tie around the front fork and adjust the preload for a third of the travel.  Then you'll have to level the rear but it should be in the  preload should have close to the number of turns as the front.

Once the sag is set, then play with the adjusters which can be determined by riding the bike.   I would start with full soft (some start in the middle) and adjust the rebound and compression a couple clicks but on separate rides to "feel" how each adjustment changes the handling.  After that, work both adjusters in tandem until comfortable.

 

 

On 4/23/2013 at 8:13 PM, GuzziMoto said:

I have swapped to GSXR front end on one of my Guzzi's, a Daytona (much related frame wise to a V11). A GSXR front end would be a better choice. They are more common, so easier to get and cheap. They are also better forks, that  use radial brakes (at least most late model versions do), a lighter front wheel, and parts/upgrades for them are easy to come by. Most suspension guys can make a GSXR fork do whatever you need it to do.

Also, the swap was not that hard, consisting of a complete GSXR front end (forks, wheel & discs, and brake calipers, I used a Brembo radial M/C), using tapered steering bearings from a Suzuki DRZ 400, and making a few assorted brackets and what not for things like the headlight and turn signals. I used a front end from a '04 GSXR 1000. I had a suspension guy spring and valve it for me. Further research and measuring says that an '06 -'07 GSXR 750 front end is actually a better choice. But either will work and I am sure some others will as well. There is a wealth of info on GSXR forks, there is info detailing the dimensional differences between the different years. Here is a site with some of that info.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135430

I highly recommend the swap. It is awesome.

I had about a grand in the swap, including the Brembo RCS master cylinder and having the forks re-valved/sprung. I think I paid $600 for all the GSXR front end parts.

 

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