sp838 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 docc - just checked my battery voltage as you asked: key off 13v, key on 11v. Also checked my fuses. All look good, the 30A fuse however looks slightly melted. The plastic around one of the legs is a little wavy. Doesn't look burned or otherwise discolored though. Just deformed. Another weird thing is that the fuses don't match what is indicated on the cover, don't know if that a good thing or not. The last three that are listed as 5A on the cover are 15, 20 and 15 amps each. My headlight relays are bosch brand. I'd post pictures but haven't figured out how to do that here yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 "The plastic around one of the legs is a little wavy" Typical overheating, W=I squared R (Heat = Current squared x Resistance) The clips need to be tighter. Ah, you did run the extra ground like we suggested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Haven't had the chance to yet. I will hopefully have some time next week. I also need to buy all the necessary materials. My multimeter doesn't seem to have the diode testing function either. Can you recommend a specific model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 How much you have to spend ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 I'm always willing to spend on getting better tools. The one I have now only cost me $10 on harbor freight, so I have no problem getting something better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Just go look for another cheap one with the diode test function and a 10 Amp DC range If you want a high quality Nth American meter Fluke make a good one, I have a couple I don't know what the modern equivalent of model 23 would be, that's a good all round meter. Update: There's a bewildering range of Flukes at big$ something like a 15B would be nice for less than $100 Even $100 is too much IMHO just go out and find another $10 meter or splurge and spend $20 DC Amp range up to 10 Millivolt range (with a shunt made from a length of wire you can measure 200 Amps) Ohms AC & DC Voltage up to 200 Diode Test A backlit display is nice A buzzer for continuity testing Leads that feel like they might last Size is important if you want to carry it on the bike Whenever I see a meter for less than $20 if it has a good feel to it I buy it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 13V to 11V is a big voltage drop. Mine only drops 0.5V. Something (likely more than one thing) is up. Let's work through it. One thing at a time. I'm a big fan of the MAXI fuse conversion for the 30amp main. I would also replace all the fuses in the block with the correct amperage. if they blow, there is something wrong (shorted) in that circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 I think I already have MAXI fuses. They all look like this: http://www.cj-jeep.com/cj3b/images/6101640.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Search this site: http://www.ripca.com/ Under Blade Fuses the original part is available, for 1/3 of the official price. I don't know about P/P to the US (actually you have no Postal Service anyway, have you? ). Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Size comparison on this post :MAXI fuse. Stock fuse on the right. ALL your fuses are the larger size? How could that be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Gahhh. No. I'm an idiot. I have all standard fuses. (Was looking at pictures online that didn't show the scale of the Maxi fuse.) Ordered some, along with a holder. Also ordered some connectors, contact cleaner, and wire. Can't seem to find the right diode yet. According to Kiwi_Roy's schematics I need a 20 amp diode, but so far can't locate one. Went to a Radio Shack today and they only had 12v 1a diodes. If anyone knows where to get the correct one, please let me know. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 A bridge rectifier they sell on line http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12678415 The advantage is it's insulated from ground so it can be bolted to the frame Really though if you have a diode gone a better solution is a new regulator, I went after market with an Electrosport ESR510 http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ESR510 The one that arrived is a little different than shown, no fuse and I had to extend the wires. It gets away from the headlight relay reference problem and has it's own ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 ... http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ESR510 The one that arrived is a little different than shown, no fuse and I had to extend the wires. It gets away from the headlight relay reference problem and has it's own ground. Roy, up to what voltage does this unit go on your bike now? Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 I think I'm going to skip the whole testing / grafting on a diode or bridge rectifier hoopla and buy a new r/r. If Kiwi_Roy endorses the ESR510, then that's as much of an endorsement as I need. Will upgrade the 30 amp fuse to a Maxi fuse, since docc swears by it and it makes sense to do it. Then I'll hunt down and correct any other issues elsewhere. I still would very much like to upgrade the alternator itself, which was the original point of this thread. I'm not satisfied with the idea that only 350 watts at best can be produced from this machine, and I never got a satisfactory response from Euro Moto Electrics as to why the 450 watt stator and rotor combo, which is compatible with the v11, can't produce more than the stock unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 May be an rpm limitation. Even the stock 350w is rated at maximum rpm. Sounds like you've got a good plan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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