moto fugazzi Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Docc, before you tear it down , you should add a dye to the engine oil . Ride it for a while .... then tear it down . You can the use a UV light to see exactly where the oil leak is coming from. Roger that. Good plan. Thanks! I put 1/2 bottle of UV dye in my bike a few months back in order to locate the leak. The dye isn't showing up through the bell housing hole. I was hoping that the leak was from the gasket above the oil pan, but it isn't. Maybe I just don't have enough dye in there, or perhaps it's already stained the inside of the bell housing as it leaks down through to the vent hole. Feel free to merge the threads, or delete mine, as they seem to be fairly similar. I'll post findings as my bike gets taken apart. I'd do it myself if there was any chance of the temps getting back into the 40's in the next few months. Probably won't get back into the 70's for at least 4 months here. Ken Are you using a UV light & glasses (w/the dye) to find this leak ? Yes. It sure shows up easily where I spilled some at the oil filler hole. I bought the complete kit from NAPA. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 OK ? Don't know what to say now ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraeV11 Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 HAHA! I was waiting to see what YOU found! Now I'm making a list of everything a properly fettled 89,000 mile V11 Sport ought to have on a winter tear down . . . Ken, I know you started another thread on your leak, but what say we combine results? (I bet we won't have the last two wet weep holes on the planet . . . ) I had exact same deposits of oil and it drove me mad for a number of weeks. I replaced upper and lower sump gaskets to no avail, and spent ages sniffing it to establish whether it was gearbox oil (I have given that up now ) . Turned out there was a split in the oil hose (the thick black rubber breather hose between the cylinders) as Mr Roper diagnosed. It was difficult to see the split until I pulled it. I couldn't work out how the oil migrated to some of the places it did but I guess the wind swirls around the engine in interesting ways. There was enough oil leaking for a few drips on the ground each time I parked up. Once fixed no more probs. Good luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 The vent hose is so nefarious (and so old on this bike) that I suppose I should certainly replace it and watch the leak for a time before bursting the bike to bits . . . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Anything ever come to light on this? I know you guys north of the "Sun Belt" are in no big rush to get the bikes back on the road yet, but I was just curious.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Admittedly, I've been putting this off. It has been necessary to devote some proper attention to the Beer Thread since, apparently, Helio-Jim only quaffs during Advent . . . My plan for February is to remove the tank and the tail section to change the vent hose and finally weld my broken left exhaust/pannier hanger. I'm hoping to do this without removing the entire rear seat sub-frame. EDIT (February 28, 2014): Had to pull off 3/4 of the wiring harness and remove the entire rear subframe to weld it safely. Sheesh - no wonder I put this off over three years! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 On the slippery slope now. Tank off, fished out the vent tube. I was hoping to find it in worse shape! I'll pick up the Ford heater hose tomorrow and post reference numbers for Gates and a detailed fitting. Meanwhile, deeper to find the wetness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Pretty fresh and wet around the distributor blanking plate. Never had it off, what's under there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Oh. That's what's under there: a clapped out, 89,000 mile square-section, leaky O-ring! Must it be Viton to replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 No..... you should be able to match it up at a good auto parts store or industrial equipment store . When you reinstall , put a smear of silicone sealant around the flat portion of the block-off to aid in sealing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Thanks, g! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Gates 18912 (cross referenced from the Goodyear 63318) heater hose was about $40. Yet, my auto parts guy has no confidence it will hold up to the oil exposure. How big of a concern is that? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 I can send you a pic of a heater hose that has been exposed to oil ..... It expands to about 2 Xs the diameter and gets very sticky..IDK how long this line/hose will last. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 So, this whole idea that we can cut down a heater hose for the Crankcase vent return line is bunk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 That has been my experience.... rubber is for petroleum or coolant and sometimes both....unfortunately you need to find a hose that will work with petroleum or buy the factory ( crummy) vent hose.... the hose you have might last a year or two . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now