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Rear drive needle bearing and swing arm restoration


Bjorn

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I am 100% sure, i left nothing out of the assembly.

 

I just took the crownwheel out of the box. I measured the distance between the crownwheel and the carrier where its mounted in. Took a hammer and gave it a couple of good hits. It did go down 0,5mm compared to the situation after disassembly. I refitted the ring washer and remounted the box.

 

Same result  as before. I also made 2 videos where i rotate the pinion etc. Once i figure out how to upload it without the whole google+ cr*p I will put a link down here.

20140206_192607.jpg

 

since it is still somewhat winter and i have all the parts off the bike, im seriously thinking about visiting the Guzzi garage. Hoping they can shine some light on this and help me out a bit..

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Something is NOT right. You should be able to feel slack in the driveshaft L/R rotation ....Any is better than tha zipper noise on the video . Yuck !

look it over to see what might be wrong.

 If you think you have gone as far as you can go w/o messing it up.. Take the parts to a good mechanic for help.

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Gosh, and I thought I was just being timid not wanting to go into the bevel box!!

With good reason it seems: if it ain't broke...

Good luck mate! You'll be an expert by the time you're done.

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Im not a believer of '' if it aint broke dont fix it''. However, not knowing everything does give you a peace of mind (maybe somewhat false ;)).

 

The video was made with a mobile phone and w/o oil in the box. The sound may sound a bit ''dramatic'' because of this. But nevertheless, a cyclic sound can be heard....

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  • I removed my rear wheel to see how much backlash there is in the rear end. Rotating the driveshaft back & forth , there is an amount , not much but there is an amount. 
  • Did you forget part # 25 in the diagram .Is it  a shim or gasket ?
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Dont forget there could be some play in other parts (driveshaft couplings etc). But I dont have any play at the moment.

 

I did not forget any parts of left out spacer ''25'' :)  The thickness i have in the box is either 0,9mm or 1,0mm. The parts list shows shims up to 1,2mm. However as Hubert has pointed out, there is also a shim on the pinion. This has also influence on the clearance between the gears.

 

Since i dont have any experience on this subject, at the moment im strongly leaning towards a guzzi garage.

 

ps: thanks for thinking with me everyone!

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I was really wanting the hammer to work. This threatens the axiom: "If it can't be fixed with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem." :mellow:

 

Hang in there, Bjorn! There must be an explanation that you can address! :luigi:

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Well, if you took it apart "just to look" and the wear pattern is good, then the shims etc were all correct. Reassembly with the same will work, no measurement needed. If the crown wheel and bearing moved just a bit out of the carrier during disassembly it may take more than a whack with a rubber mallet to reseat them. Think big and brass, or a press. That noise in the video is common on dry units, but back-lash is a concern as this would indicate that not everything has found its way back to were it was. Running a diff with no backlash will quickly overheat the teeth and lead to chipping and other increased wear characteristics. 

 

When you used the rubber mallet did you have that stick of butter there, that could be an issue?  :food:  (Sorry, just what came to mind when I saw the photo, I must be hungry.)
 

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Haha its what you want to see ;) so butter it is.

 

Yes it all makes sense, no oil etc. im thinking the same way. I hit it pretty hard, and dont want to damage anything. Im not sure if the big bearing between crownwheel and carrier is mounted against a flange or not. Can the bearing shift and force the seal out of the carrier? The drawings dont show enough details.

 

But sometimes the paranoia wins it over common sense... I will take the box to a guzzi specialist next Friday.

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