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Shift Linkage Question


moto fugazzi

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Can anyone confirm that this linkage is connected properly? The dealer replaced the aftermarket parts with the stock parts on when he changed the shift return spring. Doesn't seem like anything is binding, but I want to eliminate everything to salve the issue of rough downshifting. Upshifting takes very little movement and effort, but downshifting is a pain that includes false neutrals, a lot of movement, and it won't downshift several gears at a time (I have to preload the clutch every time).

The lever is not hitting the pork chop, and I adjusted the eccentric screw up to 1/2 turns in each direction.

 

Does this look normal? The linkage connection towards the rear of the bike has an allen head and locknut, but there is a bushing in there, and it doesn't seem to be binding.

photo 1.JPG

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Use the upper eye of the lever for generally shorter ways and make sure that the front and rear lever in neutral build a nearly right angled parallelogram.

If this parallelogram is tilted, you'll have different ways for up and down shifts. Tilted to the right will give a shorter way for down shifts, tilted to the left will logically shorten the way for up shifts.

 

Hubert

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Agreed, with Hubert, the upper eye will give shorter throws. My link rod is attached to the inboard side. And, again per Hubert, align the vertical extension of the foot lever with the vertical link of the gearbox. (Your threaded rod is not dragging the wiring for the exhaust sensor?)

DSCN1241.JPG

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Your threaded rod is not a stock part, looks like it came from Menards (northern USA hardware store, for you non-US folks). Notice in docc's photo the 90 degree angles, you want yours to look like that.

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I think the initial problem was with the connection at the tranny, and the linkage being connected on the outboard side of the pedal. I think the nut at the tranny connection was hitting the tranny, and therefore not allowing full downward movement on the pedal, and the linkage connection on the outboard side was causing it to bind up. 

 

Here's a pic of how it's connected now. Due to the aftermarket rod being too short, I can't get the parallelogram, but shifting is near perfect with nice short throws. I'm debating getting a longer rod and installing the proper way. 

Ken

photo.JPG

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I'm debating getting a longer rod and installing the proper way. 

Ken

I'm thinking that will be worth the trouble. Amazing how much little changes can make! :thumbsup:

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  • 1 year later...

If you want to improve the shifting of your V11 out of sight and lessen the issue of the lever hitting the pork chop on down shifts then extend the shift lever arm and drill another hole for the rod end 12mm center to center from the upper hole. This gives the gear box return spring more leverage over the shift lever and also means the lever has to move less at the toe peg for a given input on the shift rod.

So you can adjust the shift lever down a little more and it will still select the gears, if that's what you need. It also Means that the shift action is slightly heavier and this makes for a more positive shift action.

So a reduced shifter pedal throw ( now in line with a Japanese gearbox) more positive shift action and better shift lever return after you shift. 

I supplied a link here a while ago for the full process as well as the internal selector mechanism tuning I did on the wildguzzi site complete with photos.

The lever extension is a huge improvement and I have covered enough miles on my bike now to confidently recommend doing it.

Ciao

IMG_2743.JPG

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  • 2 years later...

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