Jump to content

Brand-new Scura


Scud

Recommended Posts

Got a little preview of how things will look... and she can roll again. Which means my wife will be able to park in the garage next week.

 

Powdercoated:

  • Swingarm (and new bearings)
  • Driveshaft collar
  • Brake caliper carrier (modified for 2003 longer pin and retaining clip)

Painted:

  • Final drive
  • Reaction rod

Lots of cleaning and fresh grease... no hammer required today.  :thumbsup:

 

IMG_5448.jpg

 

...and a new Angel GT 180   :food:

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That final drive came out great!!!  That looks better than the original factory finish.  Keep up the good work!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. It feels good to get rid of the crappy crinkle paint. And it seems the concerns are not purely cosmetic. Look at that ring of paint around the clutch pushrod bore. It came off in my hands - a few more miles and it would have been gumming up all the moving parts. I was also surprised at how much overspray was inside this cover and inside the shift preselector cover - and it was all starting to work loose from being soaked in gear oil. I didn't count on stripping crinkle paint from the inside too.

 

On the bad news front - I stupidly scratched the bore while removing the output shaft seal. :homer: I suppose I have to put in a little silicone with the new seal - to be sure it doesn't leak at the scratch.

 

IMG_5453.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

- I scratched the bore while removing the output shaft seal.  I suppose I have to put in a little silicone with the new seal - to be sure it doesn't leak at the scratch.

Applying gasket compound around the seal is a good precaution against leaks, and a light smear will ease seal installation. Same with the precaution of lubricating the seal lips during assembly.

If the scratch is deep, it is worthwhile to burnish any raised edges of the scratch down to the level of the bore, to stop damage to the seal static surface as you press it in. The ball end of a tiny ball pein hammer can be useful here, or any smooth rounded hard surface.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I appreciate the real-time advice.

 

A little more tinkering is on the agenda for today... just trying to get things cleaned, sub-assemblies ready to re-install, etc. Working from the back to the front. The engine paint is a mess on the outside, but I just "discovered" yesterday that inside of the case around the timing chain is more than 50% coated with the crap paint - so if (when) that peels off, it goes right into the timing chain before (hopefully) finding it's way to the oil filter.

 

You can see the paint already starting to flake off from inside the timing cover (bottom right).

 

IMG_5455.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

... no hammer required today.  :thumbsup:

 

 

 The ball end of a tiny ball pein hammer can be useful here, or any smooth rounded hard surface.

 

Some recurring themes cannot be escaped . . . :whistle:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am even more impressed with the VHT engine case paint (and engine primer). For comparison, the driveshaft collar is powdercoated.

 

BBCode (replace photobucket's img with this in your post)

IMG_5459.jpg

 

...and all the shift-improvement work is done - polished contact surfaces, new springs, new bearing (instead of solid roller) - and ready to reassemble.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks super nice.

 

Maybe you have found a new career.....all that's missing is the red suspenders..... :mg:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My new career... that's what one of my neighbors says too. I think I could earn about $3 per hour (just enough to buy me some suspenders).

 

There's a lot of time in the pre-paint prep of these intricate pieces, and I think the timing cover is the most difficult thing I've ever painted. Weirdly, the crinkle paint on different parts reacted differently to the stripper. The easiest was the reaction rod - it basically peeled off. The paint on the rear transmission case turned into a tar-like substance that required several applications of stripper.

 

Only 5 more parts to paint:

Transmission main case and intermediate case. I still need to split these and am hoping they are not cracked (was leaking oil)

Engine block, sump ring, and sump pan. The block is going to be tedious with all those small fins at the bottom.

 

Does anybody know if the cylinder fins are painted - or are they bare metal? They look bare, but I need to know how careful I need to be with the stripper, because I am not going to remove the cylinders.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...