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Brand-new Scura


Scud

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I picked it up from break-in service today and rode home on Pacific Coast Highway. The exhaust valves were too tight and it needed valve cover gaskets. No other issues.  :D 

 

Since I need to flush the clutch and brake fluids, it seemed the ideal time to start the dark  :ninja: ening.  I got black Rizoma fluid tanks to replace the clear plastic tanks on the bars.

 

Sadly, wrenching will have to wait, because I have to leave again tomorrow for work. However, it was urgent to remove the orange reflectors from the front wheel. They were blocking my view of those lovely 4-piston calipers. 

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IMG_2277.jpg

 

Here it is on the floor at the dealer... where we first met  :wub:

 

I'll take some pictures with a good camera when I get home. 

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Does yours come with the factory bubbling paint? Pretty common for the Scura.

 

No sign of bubbling paint so far. It's perfect really - like a time-machine dropped it off. I would guess that the bubbling shows up after several heating and cooling cycles - which my bike has not had many of (yet).

 

Let's assume that MG used a very slow-acting hardening agent in the paint... therefore it has finally set after 12 years of non-use and I won't have any engine-paint problems.   :not:

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Maybe some smoked signal lenses from the Buell parts bin?

 

Ever on into the darkness  . . .

 

I like that idea a lot. I was thinking about smaller, aftermarket indicators. However, I like the shape of the stock ones pretty well too. Do you happen to have a convenient link to a site where I could order said smoked signal lenses?  I've also seen people spray lenses with a light coat of plasti-dip to get the same effect.

 

IMG_2317.jpg

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The Buell lens(es) are an inner amber and smoked outer that screw directly to the existing body.

 

waspp has a post here that shows the part numbers. My local (former?) Buell dealer is happy to send them to me. Apparently mine wriggle loose and go missing from time to time . . .

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The Rizoma front brake fluid canister and bracket went on easily. It looks better (and Scura-er) than the big piss-cup. I got an identical set for the clutch. As you probably all know (and I just learned minutes ago) it's nearly impossible to reach the clutch bleeder. I think I will wait till I remove the rear wheel for new tires (should be in the next few weeks).

 

 photo IMG_2322.jpg

BTW - I'm also seeking advice about mounting mirrors in the thread "Bar End Mirrors

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Tyres: Those are BT020's? They'll be 12 years old now & weren't the greatest things when new.

Bike handles nicer on a 170 rear rather than stock 180.

 

There was an issue w rear wheel bearing spacers, knocking out bearings in v short order. My spacer was too short - I think it distorted when I torqued up axle, (it's made from an old cornflakes box). I made one out of heavier tube, to correct length & it's been fine since. MG specify torque for rear axle 120Nm (housing side). I don't understand why they spec side to measure at, can only think there must be some difference to result due to friction thru the assembly, etc. Anyhow I never took any notice & my spacer collapsed, since I put in a new spacer I still take no notice, just nip it up good & tight & haven't had a problem. 

 

I ordered some Pirelli Angel GT tires (decided to try the 170 rear as you recommended and as referenced in some other threads). Also checked date codes on my tires - 2001 :o. I've got almost 1,000 cautious (mostly) miles on them now - can't wait to hit some favorite roads with tires I can trust. 

 

Re spacer:

I did not see a Corn Flakes logo on mine. How did you determine that the spacer was too short? What is the correct length?

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...How did you determine that the spacer was too short? What is the correct length?

 

 

Rear wheel bearing broke. This happened immediately after rear wheel had been out. I replaced the broken bearing & it lasted about a mile or so before new one went ....

 

I measured wheel spacer shorter than distance between bearing housings: so with bearing outer hard against the housing, inner/outer races were being misaligned when torquing axle. I don't recall measurements, but I will look if I have it written somewhere, or it will be in a thread here somewhere for sure if you have time to search. Whatever, you can measure distance between bearing housings in your hub to ascertain correct size.

I discovered bearings designated C3 have slightly larger internal clearances.

I also was advised to tap in bearings using a drift that bears on both inner & outer races equally. I had always driven bearings home using drift against outer race only.

 

Guzzi spec a torque for axle measured at the drive side. I don't know why this is & can only think that drag somewhere in assembly might give different torque readings each side. However, since I did the spacer I had no problems & don't measure torque, just nip it up tight.

Cheers, KB :sun:

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